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#1 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,371
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![]() I'm not sure who jumped higher, me or the cat, but it was loud as hell. I guess it's time to recap it.
Edit: It's through hole not surface mount.
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Last edited by lookimback; 01-20-2021 at 12:24 AM.. |
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#2 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
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![]() Probably a good thing I decided to change the other three which were parallel with the one that blew up. The worst was over 40 ohms esr. The other two were 10 and 6 ohms. Capacitance were around 190uf. I didn't have any 270uf caps, so I used two 220uf and two 330uf. I figured since they were all parallel, it should work if I just got the total capacitance close to what it originally was. I'll order caps from Digikey for the entire board later in the week. For now, I just need it to work, and so far it is.
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#3 |
Cap Clutcher
Join Date: Sep 2011
City & State: NL
My Country: The Netherlands
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
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![]() Fyi, the failed polymer caps are Elite RP series.
Polymer failures are rare, so i don't put much trust in Elite polymer caps if i see them in any device. |
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#4 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
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#5 |
HC Overclocker
Join Date: Jul 2012
City & State: Singapore
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![]() depends on how long more do u wanna continue using the system for. if u still wanna use it till it drops then recap with japanese polymers like panasonic oscon sepc series or chemicon npcap psc series.
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#6 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
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![]() If I can get another year out of it I'll probably just replace it. I think since it's working, I'll just order the 4 polymers which went bad so I'll have them if the ones I used fail.
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#7 |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,174
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![]() Wow, I've heard of polymer caps failing infrequently before, but never so dramatic like this. Looks like the common notion that polymer caps even from crap manufacturers are OK must not be true. So I guess back it is to the known good Japanese brands, even for polymers.
Then again, since you say the new PSU's fan never runs due to it not being loaded enough, I wonder if those polymer caps were running too hot. Those 1st gen quad-core Phenoms are known to push out a lot of heat - even sitting idle. Making sure the CPU VRM area (and whole motherboard in the PC) stay cool would be something to check for. As much as people praise PSUs that run passively cooled, I don't think they are suitable for every PC. Some cases simply rely on the PSU and rear exhaust fan to keep the system cool inside. Last edited by momaka; 01-27-2021 at 03:20 AM.. |
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#8 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
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#9 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,174
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![]() Quote:
That is very hot, especially the CPU VRM at 144°F (62.2°C)! ![]() If you have fan control options in BIOS, you might want to turn up the CPU fan a bit. While polymer caps are supposed to be much tougher than electrolytic ones, those high CPU VRM temperatures still aren't good for them in the long run. Quote:
With that said, you could check Digikey or Mouser. I've bought name-brand replacement 80 mm ball bearing fans from there (San Ace, Panaflo, Nidec, etc.) and you can check their data sheets to see how loud they are and how much air they push. Ball bearing ones will give you longer life but are usually louder. Perhaps look for a good name-brand sleeve bearing fan. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
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#11 |
Badcaps Veteran
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![]() Noctua made a 92mm fan. https://noctua.at/en/nf-a9-pwm
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#12 |
Super Moderator
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