intel se7505vb2 bad caps

[newb2k12]

I recently took this board out of my closet, its never been used and was purchased new 2 yrs ago. Then i had checked the board over and everything looked ok, even all the caps looked nice and flat. Anyway I went to finally get around to using it and 3 of the caps around the memory area are swollen, with one really swollen near the top.
My questions are the following. I purchased 5 new caps for the bad ones, the old ones are brown with the following: kzg 6.3v 2200uf (m)105c 3171 d1, all printed on the cylinder. The replacements i got were from ratshack and are the following: nte 6.3v 2200uf 85c +- 20% and grey in color, the part # is nev2200m6.3ef rohs. Can i use these replacments for the bad ones on this board? I think after reading and reading, everything is correct except the temp, but even that from what ive read is ok, since this is on a mb near the mem sockets and one coil? Also what is the % marking for on the new ones, is it for the tolerance or variation of temp since its on that side of the cylinder?
Finally, if i can use these in place of the old ones, i read the faq on soldering and i have a 45w pencil iron, and a 100w gun type. I remember back in the 486 era i swapped a cap out from a board where the cap became loose and broke off of a leg. So I just used the iron and slowly and in small increments heated and finally pushed the old one out, then just heated one pad then the other with the old solder in it and put the new cap in its place, and it was ok. From what ive read yeah this was totally wrong but it did work. What I'm asking is has anyone else done that successfully or is it best on this new board to go the full 9 yrds and remove the old including solder and use new solder, yes i'm a little rusty @ soldering? If so, any other addtl tips especially for soldering newbies for easily replacing a cap?

Thanks in advance.

[c_hegge]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

The replacements i got were from ratshack and are the following: nte 6.3v 2200uf 85c +- 20% and grey in color, the part # is nev2200m6.3ef rohs. Can i use these replacments for the bad ones on this board?

No. RadioShack don't sell anything suitable for use on a motherboard

I think after reading and reading, everything is correct except the temp

No. The ESR and ripple tolerance specs will also be much, much worse than the KZGs you are replacing. Use https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=176 to replace them. The Nichicon HZ series are much better suited to use on a motherboard.

Also what is the % marking for on the new ones, is it for the tolerance or variation of temp since its on that side of the cylinder?

That's the capacitance tolerance. a 20% tolerance basically means that they could be 20% either way of the rated capacitance (uF)

I remember back in the 486 era i swapped a cap out from a board where the cap became loose and broke off of a leg. So I just used the iron and slowly and in small increments heated and finally pushed the old one out, then just heated one pad then the other with the old solder in it and put the new cap in its place, and it was ok. From what ive read yeah this was totally wrong but it did work. What I'm asking is has anyone else done that successfully

Yes. I do that all the time

or is it best on this new board to go the full 9 yrds and remove the old including solder and use new solder

That is best, but you can get away without removing the old stuff, as long as it is melted as you push the cap in. However, you should always apply a small amount of fresh solder to the legs once the cap is in place.

[Uranium-235]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

poor bastard.

intel had offerings of this board with Sanyo WG caps in the place you're talking about



guess you were lucky enough to get ether one that was an early model before intel realized a mistake, or a later model, when they went with a higher profit margin by using cheaper, poorer parts:

[newb2k12]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

ok thanks for the info, fwiw the 2nd pic is the board i have but one thing its a mix of the 1st one, all those silver caps near the cpu skt in the 2nd pic are yellow cylinders on mine. Also I guess im screwed i got free shipping on these and it will cost more to send them back as it was online from radioshack via fleabay,then what i pd for the mess.
So given the link above those would be the correct ones but one thing they are rated for 10v which if i read correctly somewhere thats ok as they can handle more voltage just not the other way like lets say a lower than 6.3v cap right? Finally, those in the link mentioned are for 105 c rating right, like the originals? I dont think the link showed the temp.

Thanks

[Uranium-235]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

tend to be you get longer life from caps you're replacing, if the new ones are higher voltage (within reason). 10V is good, if you want to use 6.3 you can

105c is about the highest for standard lytic caps. If your previous caps were 85 you would be doing your board a favor using 105c

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

If you want to support this site, you can buy high quality replacements from here. This fits the bill but it's a little taller i believe (10x25mm), don't have the KZG spec on hand right now. Also this, which is 10x16.

[c_hegge]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

So given the link above those would be the correct ones but one thing they are rated for 10v which if i read correctly somewhere thats ok as they can handle more voltage just not the other way like lets say a lower than 6.3v cap right? Finally, those in the link mentioned are for 105 c rating right, like the originals? I dont think the link showed the temp.

Thanks

Replacing 6.3V caps with 10V caps is fine, since its just the maximum the cap can handle

Those caps are indeed 105*C rated. Badcaps.net doesn't sell anything 85*C Rated

If you want to support this site, you can buy high quality replacements from here. This fits the bill but it's a little taller i believe (10x25mm), don't have the KZG spec on hand right now. Also this, which is 10x16.

Either will work. The first link is the one I linked to. KZG are on par spec-wise with Nichicon HM, Ruby MBZ, Sanyo/Suncon WG, Panny FJ and Samxon GD. The HN and HZ are both superior spec-wise.

[newb2k12]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

ok thx for all the help u guys, i guess ill chalk this up to experience. Luckily it didnt cost too much, so based on the link given later for the 10v ones ill be ordering those in the next few days, then finally have this board to use. My next project will be tackling replacing caps on a memory edge card for a tyan i860 rambus xeon board. But that will be a different task.

Thanks!

[newb2k12]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

an update to my thread, the recap was a success, board works fine!! So thanks to everyone. But i did do one thing by accident. As i wasnt happy with the cpu i had put on it, a 400mhz bus one vs the 533 bus it could handle. on socket 1 the one behind the pink printer port is a lone short yellow cap. Its a 4v 560uf -55 c to 105c with some model #s i think of m 3o517, i accidentally tore that cap off, legs only in spot. I did this while trying to re=apply the hs clips for the retention holder. Anyway on the stores site, I found the following.

OSCON 560uF 4v 8mm Polymer Capacitor
[OSEPC560@4_8x8]
Quantity 1+ 10+ 20+ 50+
Price for each $0.53 $0.51 $0.49 $0.46
Your savings - 4% 8% 13%
OSCON 560uF 4v 8mm Polymer Capacitor
Click to enlarge

Sanyo/OSCON 560uF 4v Ultra Low ESR Polymer Capacitor

Capacitance Voltage Series Diameter Height
560uF 4v SEPC 8mm 10mm

These tiny little caps are great for replacing failed lytics that are close to the CPU and are covered by the heatsink on your LGA775 board. These are short like the originals, and will clear the heatsink.

Shipping is $5.00 to a US Address, $8.00 Internationally for any quantity.


This product was added to our catalog on Sunday 18 October, 2009.
Reviews
Quantity:

Anyway, sorry had probs c/p the image, this according to the specs is the right one. But since no pic, just wanted to make sure this is it. I guess height wise this is a exact match right?

Thanks in advance.

[Per Hansson]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

Yes that will be a good replacement capacitor

[newb2k12]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

just an update, i recapped all the swollen caps @ the time. But a new problem, I just noticed a day or 2 ago that another cap was swollen same board. Anyway my problem is that for some reason on this cap the solder seems to be harder to remove than before. I know it may be a dumb question, but is it possible that they used some hight temp solder? The irons im using are a 35 watt and 100 watt from rat shack, they are a few yrs old, but i dont recall having this problem de-soldering a cap on this same board? Its like i can leave my soldering iron on the lead, and it never gets hot enought to break the solder loose. Yes, the soldering iron is working, as ive checked and the tip is really hot and i can melt new 60/40 solder with it. I dont know what the deal is but its like my gun is heating the solder but it seems to have alot higher metling point? or do i just need a new tip or gun, or a desolder setup?


Thanks in advance

[luke10050]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

one side of it is probably near a large ground plane, the plane takes up the heat and makes it harder to melt (my opinion only)

[momaka]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

Anyway my problem is that for some reason on this cap the solder seems to be harder to remove than before.

Is the cap located near the CPU or NB? Those caps are usually positioned on thicker ground and VCC planes, so they tend to suck a lot of heat before the solder on them melts.

Can you post pictures or Radio Shack links of which irons you have? I know the 35W iron by itself is inadequate for the job. The 100W might be too, depending on what kind of tip it has. Regular irons like this usually require a little preheating of the board.

One thing you can try is to preheat the board a little with a hair dryer, particularly around the area you're trying to solder/desolder on. Or you can use your kitchen stove too (only if it's an electric one, though). Just do NOT let the motherboard touch the hot stove top heating element. Heat a minute or two on low-medium heat. With the hair dryer, heat on high for a minute. Then try desoldering that cap.

It will also help if you add a big blob of solder on the iron's tip just before trying to melt the solder on the cap on the motherboard.

[newb2k12]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

@momaka, thx for the advice, I did try the suggestion of using a blob of solder on the tip of the iron, the 100w one, and no change. But one thing i noticed, apparently the tip is old and messed up, the solder wouldnt adhere to the tip. Just kept melting and not sticking to the iron. So I bought a new copper tip, and for the 35w as well, as the irons were a few yrs old. The 100w is all i used and I did freshly tin the tip, and after about a min the soldering gun made a pop and died. I still didnt get that old cap leg to de-solder. As for where its located, its the row next to some voltage regulating components by the 12v aux connector, located in front of the mem dimm slots. I guess im in the market now for a decent and cheap iron for this. I know I read a long time ago somewhere it was recommended that for pcb's or board use, the lower the watt. the better as 100w irons could damage the board easily. Also I've replaced @ least 6 -7 caps on this board so far, and they never gave me the trouble this one has. They usually broke loose after a min or so w/the 100w. Then i went and used the lower watt, one to put the new one in to avoid damage.

Thanks in advance.

[momaka]

Re: intel se7505vb2 bad caps

But one thing i noticed, apparently the tip is old and messed up, the solder wouldnt adhere to the tip. Just kept melting and not sticking to the iron.

Just sand it down, and it should be good again. The only problem is, if it is a copper tip, the flux will eat it over time so it will start wearing down a lot faster.

To prevent your future tips from going bad, wipe the tip on a wet sponge regularly when you see crud starting to form on the tip.

I know I read a long time ago somewhere it was recommended that for pcb's or board use, the lower the watt. the better as 100w irons could damage the board easily.

Not necessarily true.
A tip that is not up to proper temperature can damage the board as much as a tip that is way too hot. Regular irons have no temperature regulation, so the final temperature that the solder on the board reaches when you try to solder/desolder depends on the tip's size (the bigger it is, the more heat it can "hold") and the free-running temperature of the tip in air (this depends directly on the heating element - the higher the wattage the higher the temperature). The problem with unregulated irons is that no matter how hot or cold the tip is, the iron is always "pumping" heat in the tip with the same rate. And usually, the rate at which it pumps heat is a lot lower than the wattage rating. So you get a slow response from the tip (i.e. it takes time for the tip to heat back up after you solder/desolder something).

When it comes to boards with thick planes, like PC motherboards, the slow response of a regular iron can really screw things up. And this is where a temperature-regulated soldering station comes in handy, because it maintains the tip temperature at a certain range regardless of whether the tip is in the air or whether you are soldering/desoldering.

If you intend to do a lot of soldering, you should a temperature regulated station. Even the super cheap ones will be light years ahead of a regular unregulated iron. Probably this as a bare minimum:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-937b-A...item25669725c0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Sold...item1c34c7bb34
(By the way, you don't have to get those on eBay. They are sold online in many other places too. Newegg has some too. They may appear to be a different brand, but in reality they are all the same inside).

And if you intend to do this every day for a business, then you should invest a little more and not go for the cheapest one. A genuine Hakko FX888 would be very decent. Ba careful, though, because there are a lot of fake Hakko stations online. While they will work too, they are just overpriced because of the name. In reality, they are no better than the cheap stations in the links above. A real genuine Hakko, on the other hand, is of much higher quality and should last you a very very long time.

Also I've replaced @ least 6 -7 caps on this board so far, and they never gave me the trouble this one has. They usually broke loose after a min or so w/the 100w.

A minute or two??!!!
That is way too long. It should take no more than 5 seconds to melt the solder on each leg. If you use the "rocking"/"walking" method, it should take about 20 to 30 seconds to remove a cap if even that much.