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    Faulty Soldering Station help required

    Hi Guys,

    I'm new here and quite an illeterate when it comes to electronics.
    The extent of my knowledge is that I can solder a component or wire.

    Having said the above, I'm wondering it someone can help.

    I purchased a soldering station for soldering connectors to lipo batteries for rc helis. Recently I needed to change the tip, which I did, but after which the station shorted out. The soldering station is a Duratech TS-1564 available from Jaycar in australia.
    http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...SUBCATID=953#1

    Rather than purchase a new soldering station, I thought it might be worth trying to fix the faulty one.

    One opening the unit I found a number of resistors that were faulty.
    I took the board back to Jaycar, where they were able to provide me with replacement resistors. After soldering the resistors on the board, I turned the unit on with a replacement pen and one of the large resistors started to smoke again.

    I am assuming that something else is damaged, but I'm not sure on how to proceed.

    Any help would be appreciated
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Faulty Soldering Station help required

    You said replacement 'pen'.
    Have you replaced the iron or just the tip? I would replace the iron, I suspect there's a short in the element. I broke the element in mine, nothing happened to the station though.

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Faulty Soldering Station help required

      yep, my terminology isn't good.
      I have replaced the iron and checked the connectors. no short on the iron

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Faulty Soldering Station help required

        What happens with the iron unplugged?

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Faulty Soldering Station help required

          seems okay, light comes on, its only once the iron is plugged in that one of the resistors burns. I've traced back from that resistor which goes to a part no. BT136 600E which fomr the internet is labelled as a triac?? Could this be causing the problem.

          I have confirmed that the new iron works fine.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Faulty Soldering Station help required

            Yes it could be the problem, but also check the T1 transistor right next to it. You might even pull that T1 transistor out, hook the wand (iron) up and see if it gets hot or overheats. if it does not I would replace that T1. Actually with it already off the board, I'd replace it anyway. Of course you can also test it with a meter. Maybe pulling up one lead on R19 next to it would take it out of the circuit...

            Personally, I get headaches trying to trace circuits from pictures but if you provided a good bottom-up shot of the PCB, someone else may be able to tell you more.
            Last edited by 999999999; 11-11-2012, 02:29 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Faulty Soldering Station help required

              Post GOOD CLEAR pictures of the back side of the board so I can clearly see the traces.
              Also show the pictures of what those two connectors on the board go to. Show how the unit is wired up.
              The TRIAC is more likely to be use to control the temperature of the 24VAC heating element.
              Never stop learning
              Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

              Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

              Inverter testing using old CFL:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

              Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
              http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

              TV Factory reset codes listing:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Faulty Soldering Station help required

                I may have misstated something in my last post, I meant something more like:

                Yes it could be the problem, but also check the T1 transistor right next to it. You might even pull that T1 transistor out, hook the wand (iron) up and see if it gets hot or overheats. if it does I would replace the triac but if not look closer still at T1. Actually with T1 already off the board, I'd replace it anyway. Of course you can also test it with a meter. Maybe pulling up one lead on R19 next to it would take it out of the circuit.

                Comment

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