Hello,
This no-name Internet router wouldn't turn on, so I opened it up and, lo and behold, a single 220uf 16v Teapo SEK cap on the input. I replaced the cap (with great difficulty as part of the Teapo's leg broke off in the hole and I had to solder over it because I couldn't get it out) with a Chemi-Con KME 220uf 25v and tried it again, but it still wouldn't come to life. Then, as I was trying to get it to turn on, I noticed the input diode "sparking" whenever I applied the power. Hmmm, that can't be right I thought. So what I did, was take an old dead Sega Genesis motherboard, scavenged what looked like the same kind, color and size diode off it, and replaced the router's diode with it. Because I couldn't get the broken Teapo's leg out of the hole, I "bridged" the UCC's negative leg to the anode of the diode (the capacitor and diode were on the same circuit.)
The end result: LIFE! The router blinked to life.
I connected it to my network hub, and it gave out DHCP addresses. I could ping the router, and even access the password screen for the web interface. (I don't have the password because the person who gave me the router didn't give me its password! 
) Now if I can find out just who made this thing, I can get to configuring it for a test run.
Only one cap, the 220uf 16v one I mentioned earlier, was a Teapo SEK. The rest of the caps are very low-value (as in 22uf) Wendell and 'W.D.'. For the recap I used a single United Chemi-Con KME 220uf 25v cap.
And now, for the ugly pics of my ghetto repair job. (People who can solder, please don't ever do this! I was lucky this skank-@$$ "repair" worked at all!)
This no-name Internet router wouldn't turn on, so I opened it up and, lo and behold, a single 220uf 16v Teapo SEK cap on the input. I replaced the cap (with great difficulty as part of the Teapo's leg broke off in the hole and I had to solder over it because I couldn't get it out) with a Chemi-Con KME 220uf 25v and tried it again, but it still wouldn't come to life. Then, as I was trying to get it to turn on, I noticed the input diode "sparking" whenever I applied the power. Hmmm, that can't be right I thought. So what I did, was take an old dead Sega Genesis motherboard, scavenged what looked like the same kind, color and size diode off it, and replaced the router's diode with it. Because I couldn't get the broken Teapo's leg out of the hole, I "bridged" the UCC's negative leg to the anode of the diode (the capacitor and diode were on the same circuit.)
The end result: LIFE! The router blinked to life.
I connected it to my network hub, and it gave out DHCP addresses. I could ping the router, and even access the password screen for the web interface. (I don't have the password because the person who gave me the router didn't give me its password! ) Now if I can find out just who made this thing, I can get to configuring it for a test run.Only one cap, the 220uf 16v one I mentioned earlier, was a Teapo SEK. The rest of the caps are very low-value (as in 22uf) Wendell and 'W.D.'. For the recap I used a single United Chemi-Con KME 220uf 25v cap.
And now, for the ugly pics of my ghetto repair job. (People who can solder, please don't ever do this! I was lucky this skank-@$$ "repair" worked at all!)
Attached Files
Comment