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Wine Fridge Power Board
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fixed so far...376 lg lcd tv's,24 onn tv;s,24 panasonic lcd,16 jvc lcd,12 marshall jcm800 amps,refurb of various disco equipment lighting,old style disco decks ,and a flymo!
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please let us know if everything works ok if your tv gets fixed, as it will be and aid for anyone else having the same problem and wishing to fix it.it would save people clogging up this site with topics that are duplicated,and can be found easily using the search function.,and taking up valuable space.enjoy your fixed tv!,hopefully!
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Originally posted by multimeter View Postman trouble?Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....
"Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me
Excuse me while i do something dangerous
You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.
Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore
Follow the white rabbit.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
shame your far away,ive got around 20-25 valve radios in the garage,must fix em soon !fixed so far...376 lg lcd tv's,24 onn tv;s,24 panasonic lcd,16 jvc lcd,12 marshall jcm800 amps,refurb of various disco equipment lighting,old style disco decks ,and a flymo!
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please let us know if everything works ok if your tv gets fixed, as it will be and aid for anyone else having the same problem and wishing to fix it.it would save people clogging up this site with topics that are duplicated,and can be found easily using the search function.,and taking up valuable space.enjoy your fixed tv!,hopefully!
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
I took some better pics. The thick yellow wire (chassis ground) was in the center of the old boards. The new ones didn't have that spot available so I attached it next to the ground for the Peltier.
The second pic is of the right side. Each side has CN1 which I believe is the on/off switch for the lights inside each side or "zone". CN3-Fan I have for each exterior fan on the heat sinks. CN4-Fan is a single wire that joins both boards. CN5-LED-Fan is a 3-wire port for the front LED panel and interior fan; one on each side. The last port is not visible in the pic. It is CN2; a black and red wire that is only on the right side. This port is open on the left.
I unplugged the right side and turned on the fridge. The left side has been running all day. As soon as I plugged in the right side, the left immediately died. Maybe I have something plugged in wrong?
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Yes, I believe you are right that you have them connected wrong or the board you bought is not directly compatible with the one you are replacing. The unit I had was a single board. It had similar connections. I did not have a front led on the unit just the inside led. The inside led stayed on all the time. This was normal. The CN1, NTC connector went inside to Rheostat/ thermal couple connection. To check this I disconnected CN1 connector and measure the resistance while I adjusted the temperature control knob. I got a reading of about 10 K ohm when fully cold and 14 K ohms when set to the warmest. The only chassis ground I had was from the incoming AC wire to a screw on the chassis. The AC ground and the DC ground was made on the board with some low amount of resistance between them. I would ohm out the fan connections to 12 volts to check each fan I connected to the 12 Volts. I would do this when everything is connected as somehow the fans are sharing the 12 volt wires and also possibly the grn. wire. Also, inside led was connect to the blue and white wires. You will have to ohm these out. I think I had a yellow and black wire going to the rheostat/thermocouple
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
The boards are exact. I pulled the jumper wire that joins the two boards and it seems to be running like it should. The left side fan slowed and eventually stopped again but I happened to check the temp on that zone and it was where it should be. My basement where I'm working on this is cool so maybe that's been part of the deal all along. I would think the fan should still be on the whole time. I just don't get the beeping coming from the boards.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Oh the fridge has two power boards?... one for each side, with fans/Peltier for each side too?
Then it would need a Master/Slave configuration- unless there are two independent temperature sensors (NTC thermistors).
If a single temperature sensor is "shared", then I think the second board needs a jumper/wire removed. Otherwise, connecting it would upset the mutual temperature reading.
Also, one side could be a responding a few degrees different from the other. Don't expect each side to have exactly the same setpoint, but it sounds like they are way off when you run two boards.
The squealing sound from the power supplies is normal when they have a light load. I wouldn't worry about it, esp. the new boards do it also
The IC in a socket looks like a microcontroller. If this is true, then there might be firmware differences. I would put the old MCU in the new power board and see if it behaves differently (i.e. master/slave).
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
I would Google for the owners manual. This will tell you the operating temperature. To tell if your basement is to low. It should also tell you why the boards are beeping. If it is nothing to be concerned about then you can always try to disconnect the piezo electric device. If the Peltiers turn off so will the fan because it is not needed.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Originally posted by redwire View PostOh the fridge has two power boards?... one for each side, with fans/Peltier for each side too?
Then it would need a Master/Slave configuration- unless there are two independent temperature sensors (NTC thermistors).
If a single temperature sensor is "shared", then I think the second board needs a jumper/wire removed. Otherwise, connecting it would upset the mutual temperature reading.
Also, one side could be a responding a few degrees different from the other. Don't expect each side to have exactly the same setpoint, but it sounds like they are way off when you run two boards.
The squealing sound from the power supplies is normal when they have a light load. I wouldn't worry about it, esp. the new boards do it also
The IC in a socket looks like a microcontroller. If this is true, then there might be firmware differences. I would put the old MCU in the new power board and see if it behaves differently (i.e. master/slave).
Your master/slave theory sounds valid here but I don't see where I could specify one or the other on the boards.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
I found the removable chips and swapped them in. Both sides are set at 54 and I currently have one side at 64 and one at 71. Both were five degrees higher when I shut it off to swap the chips; so it's cooling but very slowly and not like it should. This is really strange. The fans are running fine.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Perhaps the place you are getting the Peltiers are lying about their specs. That was the case from the place I had bought the Peltiers. The refrig I had said it would go down to 37 degrees F max when the ambient temp is 70 F. My refrig would only go down to 62 degrees F. You can but an amp meter in series with the Peltier to find the current draw. If you had the manual it would tell you what output wattage of the power supply which is basically the wattage the Peltiers draw. Then figure the current expected P/E=I. Then divide the I by the number a Peltiers, that will give you the current draw through each Peltier. You can test the Peltier before you put it in the cooler by connecting it to the power supply with a DC amp meter in series and seeing how much current you draw. Only do this for a short period of time otherwise the Peltier will burn out. My reading on the new Peltier I bought only got to 2.6 Amps and it would go no higher. They were rated at 6.5 amps max but they would had burned out at 2.6 amps.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
If it is a TEC1-12706 from China it will not meet the specifications. These are the ones I had got. They cost around $3 to $4 a piece. The ones in the US that probably will work cost around $21 apiece. This is unfortunate as the unit a person puts them in is probably worth no more than $40. Also, this thread;
Thermo electric pcb power supply (Multi-page thread 1 2 3 ... Last Page)
JOELDJOHNSON
there is a discussion of the power supply and I wrote my experience with these Peltiers. I ended up throwing the refrigerator in the trash because the cost of replacing the Peltiers would had been $42 and shipping and tax.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Originally posted by keeney123 View PostIf it is a TEC1-12706 from China it will not meet the specifications. These are the ones I had got. They cost around $3 to $4 a piece. The ones in the US that probably will work cost around $21 apiece. This is unfortunate as the unit a person puts them in is probably worth no more than $40. Also, this thread;
Thermo electric pcb power supply (Multi-page thread 1 2 3 ... Last Page)
JOELDJOHNSON
there is a discussion of the power supply and I wrote my experience with these Peltiers. I ended up throwing the refrigerator in the trash because the cost of replacing the Peltiers would had been $42 and shipping and tax.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Originally posted by jkessler00 View PostWas that supposed to be a link? I guess I can search it. My fridge is a Wine Enthusiast 12 bottle dual-zone that was about $200. I prefer to keep it. I noticed that the ones I bought were 60W and there are both 72W and 92W available as well.
It is critical as to the way the Peltiers are put in as to not damage them. The way the wire come out of the heat sink is important. If the wires are allowed to be bent down below the Peltier it can cause them to crack. Very small cracks you can see under a magnifying glass. So make sure the wires are located on the flat surface not the curved surface. Both sides of the sink need heat sink compound. That is both the hot and cold side need heat sink compound. The pressure tightening the screws need to be firm as to apply pressure but not so cranked down as to break the devices. That is all the information I can offer you.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Originally posted by jkessler00 View PostWas that supposed to be a link? I guess I can search it. My fridge is a Wine Enthusiast 12 bottle dual-zone that was about $200. I prefer to keep it. I noticed that the ones I bought were 60W and there are both 72W and 92W available as well.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Originally posted by redwire View PostYour early pics show a grn/gry cable to CN1, and the latest show blu/wht - so I think that's two temperature sensors. CN2 is supposed to be out on one board for a shared sensor configuration but I don't see it in the pics.
I will test the amperage soon. I appreciate the input.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
I've messed with this thing on and off for weeks. The two peltiers were drawing between 3-3.5A. I put a pair of 12709's in to see what would happen. They draw 6.5A and don't do a thing. The back of the fridge is super hot. I used a good thermal compound on both sides of each chip. I give up.
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Re: Wine Fridge Power Board
Originally posted by jkessler00 View PostI've messed with this thing on and off for weeks. The two peltiers were drawing between 3-3.5A. I put a pair of 12709's in to see what would happen. They draw 6.5A and don't do a thing. The back of the fridge is super hot. I used a good thermal compound on both sides of each chip. I give up.
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