Badcaps.net Forum
Go Back   Badcaps Forums > Troubleshooting Hardware & Devices and Electronics Theory > Troubleshooting Computer Displays
Register FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-12-2013, 03:21 PM   #61
Tomcatciller
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
City & State: Saxony/Chemnitz
My Country: Germany
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 31
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Ok, thx for information. I just ordered a inverter from this ebayer. He told me 8 pins were incorrect and so he corrected his auction description to 10.
__________________
Successfully repaired: Benq FP93GX+ (bad capacitor) / Samsung 2233RZ (bad inverter) / Enermax Liberty ELT500AWT (bad capacitors)
Tomcatciller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 02:44 AM   #62
Tomcatciller
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
City & State: Saxony/Chemnitz
My Country: Germany
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 31
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Ok, I made my first steps in soldering.

I was able to unsolder the inverter from the circuit. It was my first try, I never unsoldered anything before. (beside very simple cap replacement on a Benq LCD circuit) Does it look good? I had problems to remove the tin-solder from the circuit. I never used solder wicks before.

It takes alot of time to find they to get the solder onto the solder wick. So I think I but alot of heat into the circuit. I hope I dont damage anything. With a bit of luck the new inverter will come today, and I will be able to solder him on the circuit.

Ah and another question: After unsoldering I cleaned the circuit with 99 % isopropanal. Is this ok? Is it necessary to seal the circuit after soldering the inverter in? I put alot of flux on the circuit to make the solder go into the solder wick.

Greetings form Germany

TCC
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 11092013055.jpg (1.25 MB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg 17092013062.jpg (839.0 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg 17092013065.jpg (995.9 KB, 33 views)

Last edited by Tomcatciller; 09-17-2013 at 02:54 AM..
Tomcatciller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 04:41 AM   #63
Tomcatciller
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
City & State: Saxony/Chemnitz
My Country: Germany
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 31
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Sometimes things happen really fast, the new inverter arrived and I soldered him in the circuit. What do you say to the quality of my soldering?

New in Circuit measurement:

P2-1 <-> P2-2 = 001 ohms
P3-1 <-> P3-2 = 001 ohms
P2 <-> P3 = 001 ohms
P1 <-> P2 = 1 (no contact)
P3 <-> P4 = 1 (no contact)
S1 <-> S2 = 910 ohms
S2 <-> S3 = 1 (no contact)
S3 <-> S4 = 914 ohms
S1 <-> S4 = 1 (no contact)

I can tell if the repair worked in a few minutes.

Edit:

He is working!

Thank you all very much for the help. I am lucking forward more repair projects.

Greetings from Germany

TCC
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 17092013071.jpg (867.5 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg 17092013073.jpg (669.5 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg 17092013074.jpg (589.4 KB, 29 views)

Last edited by Tomcatciller; 09-17-2013 at 05:49 AM..
Tomcatciller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 11:01 AM   #64
Rtech
Badcaps Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Harrogate UK
Posts: 1,087
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Well done !!!
Rtech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #65
2233rz
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Leek
My Country: Netherlands
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Thanks for this topic guys I have the same problem. I will try to get it fixed soon!
Is the soldering easy to do because I have no experience with soldering?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbd4XDIQA8w
2233rz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2014, 12:31 PM   #66
Badcapsname
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
City & State: Gelsenkirchen
My Country: Germany
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
Thumbs up Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Especially registered to say

THANK YOU VERY MUCH !

With your info, i was able do bring my monitor back to life.

In my case the transformer was broken. Ordered a new one via ebay from singapore.

Just some data:
pin p3-p4 s1-s2 s3-s4
bad 530 913 1384
new 1 926 926

Badcapsname is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2015, 07:13 AM   #67
pwl
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
City & State: Berlin
My Country: Germany
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Thank you guys, I just fixed my 2233rz with your information! Thanks very much!

Search terms for german people on google:
Samsung 2233rz geht nach einer Sekunde aus
Samsung 2233rz geht aus nach einer Sekunde
Samsung 2233rz schwarz nach einer Sekunde
Samsung 2233rz schaltet sich nach einer Sekunde aus
pwl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2016, 07:54 AM   #68
gretter74
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
City & State: Copenhagen
My Country: Denmark
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

After replacing the transformer, 2233rz good 2 secs. then goes black still! What next?

Step 1)
Unsoldered original inverter transformer.
Measurements:
s1-s2: no contact!
s3-s4: 868 ohms
p1-p2: < 1 ohm

From what I read here in this thread, that means one coil is broken.

Step 2)
Ordered new part. It's not the same, but it IS a TM-0915. I assume secondary numbering doesn't matter?
The old one is TM-0915 TNE0916DT.
The numbers on the new part: TM-0915 08TM41AT.

Step 3)
Measurements of new part:
s1-s2: 1078 ohms
s3-s4: 1077 ohms
p1-p2: < 1 ohms

Step 4)
I've looked closely at all capacitors. I don't see any bulging.

After soldering the new part into place, the problem persists.

What should my next step be?
Was I wrong in assuming the to transformers are same?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tm-0915 for forum.jpg (206.1 KB, 26 views)
gretter74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 12:01 AM   #69
Krondorf
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
City & State: Semaphore
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Hi from Australia.
I have the 2 second off issue, and replaced all the caps.. but it didn't help..
I'm going to try this now, wish me luck

I'm a bit confused as to which pins are which though as 1 picture has them numbered vertically, then another one shows them horizontally..
Please show me the correct pinout
Krondorf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2016, 03:33 AM   #70
Krondorf
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
City & State: Semaphore
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

HI,
So does this make sense?
Is it bad?
Where i've got OR it said 1 on the multimeter.. so OR right?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg inverter.jpg (552.1 KB, 26 views)

Last edited by Krondorf; 10-01-2016 at 03:34 AM..
Krondorf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2016, 09:51 PM   #71
Krondorf
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
City & State: Semaphore
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Ok, well i bought one off ebay, and fitted it today..
Monitor is back up and running!! YAY !!

Pity i replaced the caps first.. could have saved myself $35 there lol
Krondorf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 08:36 PM   #72
zaphod
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: Clive, Iowa
My Country: United States
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Had to register just to say thanks!! I was having the backlight lights up for 1 second and then goes black issues. Found this thread and that inductor was indeed the issue! $5 off ebay and all is well!!
zaphod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2018, 09:50 AM   #73
KennySVG
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
City & State: Ottley Hall
My Country: St Vincent & Grenadines
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Quote:
Originally Posted by gretter74 View Post
After replacing the transformer, 2233rz good 2 secs. then goes black still! What next?

Step 1)
Unsoldered original inverter transformer.
Measurements:
s1-s2: no contact!
s3-s4: 868 ohms
p1-p2: < 1 ohm

From what I read here in this thread, that means one coil is broken.

Step 2)
Ordered new part. It's not the same, but it IS a TM-0915. I assume secondary numbering doesn't matter?
The old one is TM-0915 TNE0916DT.
The numbers on the new part: TM-0915 08TM41AT.

Step 3)
Measurements of new part:
s1-s2: 1078 ohms
s3-s4: 1077 ohms
p1-p2: < 1 ohms

Step 4)
I've looked closely at all capacitors. I don't see any bulging.

After soldering the new part into place, the problem persists.

What should my next step be?
Was I wrong in assuming the to transformers are same?
I have this problem exactly, except I also changed all the caps (just not the huge one), and still no luck.

I used the same transformer you did, same part numbers. My old transformer was actually good too but already changed it and now that I'm able to test it using the info in this thread, I realised that it wasn't the issue either.

So with the caps and transformer already changed, what's left?? Were you ever able to solve this gretter74?
KennySVG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2018, 10:07 AM   #74
gretter74
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
City & State: Copenhagen
My Country: Denmark
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Quote:
Originally Posted by KennySVG View Post
I have this problem exactly, except I also changed all the caps (just not the huge one), and still no luck.

I used the same transformer you did, same part numbers. My old transformer was actually good too but already changed it and now that I'm able to test it using the info in this thread, I realised that it wasn't the issue either.

So with the caps and transformer already changed, what's left?? Were you ever able to solve this gretter74?
No. I just have basic electronic understanding, but not enough hands on experience to find a solution when the suggested fix didn't work.

I don't have the screen any more.

Good luck tho.
gretter74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2018, 01:43 PM   #75
vinceroger69
Badcaps Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Nuneaton Warwickshire
My Country: uk
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 5,779
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Quote:
Originally Posted by KennySVG View Post
I have this problem exactly, except I also changed all the caps (just not the huge one), and still no luck.

I used the same transformer you did, same part numbers. My old transformer was actually good too but already changed it and now that I'm able to test it using the info in this thread, I realised that it wasn't the issue either.

So with the caps and transformer already changed, what's left?? Were you ever able to solve this gretter74?
Not much left except a faulty ccfl tube or wiring on the end of it
vinceroger69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2018, 02:12 PM   #76
budm
Badcaps Veteran
 
budm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 35,353
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Inveter tester.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19987
__________________
Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809
budm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2018, 09:44 AM   #77
EMaDeLoC
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
City & State: Madrid
My Country: Spain
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Hello.
I have another 2233RZ display with backlight off.
I already changed all the capacitors except the big one.
I found this thread and I tested the inverter.
S1-S2 895 ohms
S3-S4 896
So I think is ok.
The fist time it went off it did some electrical spark noises. I hit it a few times and backlight come back a few seconds, until some hits later return for a while. Next day backlight didn't turn on.
Then I changed the caps, it did that electrical spark noise again and turn on. Next day off again.
All capacitors look fine.

Display still works, I can see image with a torch. So I'm thinking in changing CCFL lamps with LEDs or trying to find a driver board for the LCD panel.

So, any suggestion for repair, changing CCFL lamps or drivers boards?

Thank you for this topic, BTW. It helped me a lot.
EMaDeLoC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2018, 10:04 AM   #78
vinceroger69
Badcaps Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Nuneaton Warwickshire
My Country: uk
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 5,779
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

maybe just be a bad connection to a ccfl lamp
vinceroger69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2019, 08:58 AM   #79
RLZMndAGJmvX
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
City & State: brazil
My Country: Brazil
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
Default Re: Samsung 2233RZ "2s to blanck"

Alright, so Im reviving this thread instead of creating a new one to simplify things and because this monitor is so old at this point.

I had the same issue as the couple of posters above, replaced the caps (seemed good anyway) and that didnt solve the issue.

The inverter transformer seemed fine too, reading 913-913Ohms, but it had burn marks around the top of it, and to make things worse I didnt find one that had exactly the same part number like other people here, so decided against wasting my time with it.

Long story short I bought an universal inverter board from China, installed it, redid some solder joints that seemed bad, and it worked! The backlight turns on and I can use it fine!

Theres one issue I hope you guys can help me with though, I seem to have lost brightness control and the way it is now makes it waaayy too bright for daily use, almost as if brightness is always cranked up to the max.

This monitor appears to have 2 adjust signals: B-DIM has a 2.2-5.5v range and it seems to adjust brightness a little, non-linearly, and not enough. A-DIM is fixed at 0.75v and doesnt seem to do anything when hooked up to the board, maybe its a PWM signal I cant pick up with the multmeter?

Is there a way I can make it dimmer, using some kind of resistor or something? I dont care so much about being able to adjust it as long as its reasonably dim. Is there anything I can do to help track the issue down? I didnt find any datasheets for the board, so I cant be sure of the voltage range I should use for adjustment, so Im wary of trying to simply generate that signal with or something.

Pictured is a close up of the board and how its installed. Its part number is AVT4029.

I used the SIGON, GND and B-DIM (not pictured) connections from the ribbon connector to the logic board (left of the power board), and a ~13v power source that seemed to go into the stock inverter and had beefier traces for V-IN. (and yes, before you ask, the black wire is actually V-IN and the red one is GND). Also ignore the red wires in the middle of the board, thats because I ruined some traces while replacing the main capacitor
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20190409_191953954.jpg (437.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20190409_182112455.jpg (564.0 KB, 4 views)
RLZMndAGJmvX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



Badcaps.net Technical Forums 2003 - 2019
Powered by vBulletin ®
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:35 PM.
Did you find this forum helpful?