Hallo,
i have a Samsung UE40ES5700SXZG with broken backlight. The PSU output for the LEDs delivers 250V (one rail). TFT and sound is working.
The first LED bar (in line) is defective. Several LEDs are short, at least one is open and some are ok (measured with multimeter, diode test). On the second LED bar all diodes are measured 'good'.
Now i have these options:
1) Get one LED bar for 39€ (local, within 2 days)
2) Get both LED bars for 78€ (local)
3) Get both LED bars for 43€ (ebay/china, 4 weeks)
I was told to go for 1) as differences between new<>old bars should usually be neglectable. Would you agree or better go for both?
Just to make sure as i've seen one guy ordering the wrong one already... the bar with contacts R+, R+, R- is the 'right' one (and L+, L-, L- the 'left' one)? That's the PSU labeling. I guess the guy judged it rather by looking onto the TV front (its opposite then) like the speakers.
Is there some trick to test the other working LED bar with the PSU? Replacing the first LED bar in-line with a 230V/15W bulb or something? I've seen they're using this to test the PSU in general (link below) but i'm not sure if i can put the 2nd LED bar in-line as well.
I have the same burn marks on the acrylic glass like here (scroll down). The picture attached below shows the base/plate where the LED bar resides. This black stripe is rather soft like cushion. Doesn't look all too good as a heat transporter. Would it make sense to scrap some off to get direct contact to the metal (maybe with additional heat-sink paste)?
Thanks for any advice!
i have a Samsung UE40ES5700SXZG with broken backlight. The PSU output for the LEDs delivers 250V (one rail). TFT and sound is working.
The first LED bar (in line) is defective. Several LEDs are short, at least one is open and some are ok (measured with multimeter, diode test). On the second LED bar all diodes are measured 'good'.
Now i have these options:
1) Get one LED bar for 39€ (local, within 2 days)
2) Get both LED bars for 78€ (local)
3) Get both LED bars for 43€ (ebay/china, 4 weeks)
I was told to go for 1) as differences between new<>old bars should usually be neglectable. Would you agree or better go for both?
Just to make sure as i've seen one guy ordering the wrong one already... the bar with contacts R+, R+, R- is the 'right' one (and L+, L-, L- the 'left' one)? That's the PSU labeling. I guess the guy judged it rather by looking onto the TV front (its opposite then) like the speakers.
Is there some trick to test the other working LED bar with the PSU? Replacing the first LED bar in-line with a 230V/15W bulb or something? I've seen they're using this to test the PSU in general (link below) but i'm not sure if i can put the 2nd LED bar in-line as well.
I have the same burn marks on the acrylic glass like here (scroll down). The picture attached below shows the base/plate where the LED bar resides. This black stripe is rather soft like cushion. Doesn't look all too good as a heat transporter. Would it make sense to scrap some off to get direct contact to the metal (maybe with additional heat-sink paste)?
Thanks for any advice!
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