Dell 3008wfp faulty power supply

[case sensitive]

Hi everyone, new to the forum. Been looking through this thread because I was given one of these monitors the other day. Nothing happens when the power button is pressed so I have ordered the replacement diode.

I was wondering if someone may be able to help me, I am having an absolute nightmare trying to open this thing.
I have managed to separate the bezel so that it's just held on by the power button cable then I flipped the monitor over.

On the side with the card reader the panel drops out fine (just gets stuck on the card reader).
On the other side the panel barely moves and seems to be stuck in the corner above the power button but does drop out on the corner where the power button is.
I have tried heating this area with a heat gun in case there was some kind of adhesive there but it didn't help.

I have circled the area where it's getting stuck in the attached picture.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[selldoor]

Not read all the thread then?

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...1&postcount=41

I think it is posted elsewhere as well

[case sensitive]

I've read it but I'm not sure about step 7.
I can't see any clips holding the back to the metal body, why would they only be in one corner of the monitor?

I have now managed to completely remove the front bezel (step 4), there appeared to be some tape holding the power button cable down.

[Lumberjack777]

The area you circled has the inverter board inside. The metal heat shield that covers the inverter has small tabs that tend to get caught on the back plastic cover. You just have to keep prying off the plastic cover. There is nothing connected to the back plastic cover inside the monitor. Also watch where the inputs are (DVI, VGA, etc) the plactic casing also catches on them. When it's stuck, I just put the edge over the table and grab the panel inside, and pull up on the casing. If it's stuck, it can take some work.

[case sensitive]

Thanks Lumberjack, that's what it was. Managed to free it by removing the screws in the central black piece of plastic, separated the very back piece from it in that corner then freed the metal tabs. One of the tabs had become quite bent but it's ok now.

[seanbarman]

Hi managed to fix dell 3007 wfp buy changing caps with a rubicon kit, now my dell 3008 has failed to power on. I will try this fix, but what is the more reliable monitor from experience? I don't need additional inputs or resolutions. 3008 seems to run a lot hotter...will probably sell one if i fix the 3008. Had my dell 24"
ultrasharp for years no issues

I have the 3008 open it has original d22...but looks like its been opened before.
the 3007 looks better internally and 3008 in looks

What is the best part to order STPS60170CT or STPS40170CT ?

Thanks

[Lumberjack777]

Originally Posted by seanbarman

Hi managed to fix dell 3007 wfp buy changing caps with a rubicon kit, now my dell 3008 has failed to power on. I will try this fix, but what is the more reliable monitor from experience? I don't need additional inputs or resolutions. 3008 seems to run a lot hotter...will probably sell one if i fix the 3008. Had my dell 24"
ultrasharp for years no issues

I have the 3008 open it has original d22...but looks like its been opened before.
the 3007 looks better internally and 3008 in looks

What is the best part to order STPS60170CT or STPS40170CT ?

Thanks

The prices on the used Dell 3008's have dropped a lot in the past 6 months. It's mostly due to lower prices on new 30" and 32" IPS monitors I believe. A lot of them are coming from S. Korea. I'd probably sell it as soon as possible after you fix it.

I have used the STPS60170CT in at least 8 repairs; and none of them has ever come back.

[seanbarman]

Ok thanks. If its a reliable fix may just keep the 3008 and sell the 3007

[seanbarman]

Hi on further inspection the power unit seems to be have been repaired before.
It still contains the original spec d22 but there is no insulator on it or on the 2 other diodes
that need to be desoldered ?
Do i need these ? are they ferrite beads..

thanks

[selldoor]

Is there meant to be a picture with that?

Maybe they have replaced the diodes? do they have plastic cases?
If they have metal and no insulation they would have blown immediately?

[seanbarman]

Hi, thanks for reply... i changed the d22 with STPS60170CT no insulator on leg, and it powers up , I think they must have changed psu at some point as monitor is A03 And psu is A02..none of the diodes/SCHOTTKY have insulators.
I've only had the monitor a few weeks bought off ebay
I dont mind doing again on a new psu, this one does not look that great..seems a bit warped compared to the 3007.. the insulators/ferrite beads seem to have ratings so not sure what to get.
Thanks

[selldoor]

Which ferrite beads? picture?

[seanbarman]

sorry not sure what type of insulator it is here's a pic from elsewhere..

[budm]

Just a ferrite bead which is basically a very small inductor.
For example:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...819-ND/4290885

[seanbarman]

Ok thanks, the diodes have plastic casing, do I need the insulator on leg...there was'nt one originally? It's working fine now....

I will sell it now as it seems to run hotter than 3007 wfp-hc and don't need 2...but don't want buyer to have same issues as me

How long should I test for...tested for about an hour now...is a week enough ?

Thanks

[Lumberjack777]

It will work just fine without the ferrite bead on the diode lead. Nice job on the repair!

That is a fairly detailed, and time consuming job. *thumbs up*

[seanbarman]

Hi,
Thanks but noticed a problem after looking back at some pics on the overclockers thread...These two points were bridged ....i removed solder with a braid but just presumed it was ment to join as it looked continuous...will this cause a problem, ive indicated the bridge with a red circle.

Sorry about this but no expericance

[Lumberjack777]

Originally Posted by seanbarman

Hi,
Thanks but noticed a problem after looking back at some pics on the overclockers thread...These two points were bridged ....i removed solder with a braid but just presumed it was ment to join as it looked continuous...will this cause a problem, ive indicated the bridge with a red circle.

Sorry about this but no expericance

OK. I happened to have a spare one handy. Mine doesn't have the bridge either. But it doesn't make any difference. Because the copper trace comes from the center lead of the diode to that solder. No worries. It will work either way.

[seanbarman]

That's great, thanks

[7.62mm]

Hello everybody !

Can i use http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Colla...R20200CT-D.PDF

Thank you in advance