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Old 04-19-2018, 05:49 AM   #21
Snayperskaya
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Default Re: Swapping japanese/generic electrolythics with solid-states

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Originally Posted by ChaosLegionnaire View Post
for the asus a8v, i think u missed a cap near the cmos battery right by the mosfet. i have this exact same board and the cap and mosfet there actually regulates the 5vsb supply for the board. i recommend replacing that as well so u have 16 kzg caps to replace not 15.
You're right! I've even marked it with a sharpie but forgot to red-circle it.
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Old 05-12-2018, 07:23 AM   #22
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Default Re: Swapping japanese/generic electrolythics with solid-states

Got one more board for cap replacing - actually it just came back from a repair lab, asked how much just to have the caps changed would cost me and they told me the job would be ~US$250 (about twice I paid on the board) and I'd like to hear suggestions on which caps to choose since I'm going to buy them all and start swapping from the easiest boards first (this one have a lot of SMDs on the back pretty close to the caps terminals). I've circled the different caps in different colors for easier reading since the picture quality is pretty terrible.

TYAN S7012:

NCC KZG (red circle):
18x 470uF @ 16V

NCC KY (yellow circle):
4X 220UF @ 16V

SUNCON (blue circle):
5x 1000uF @ 6.3V
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Old 05-12-2018, 08:20 PM   #23
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Default Re: Swapping japanese/generic electrolythics with solid-states

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snayperskaya View Post
Got one more board for cap replacing - actually it just came back from a repair lab, asked how much just to have the caps changed would cost me and they told me the job would be ~US$250 (about twice I paid on the board) and I'd like to hear suggestions on which caps to choose since I'm going to buy them all and start swapping from the easiest boards first (this one have a lot of SMDs on the back pretty close to the caps terminals). I've circled the different caps in different colors for easier reading since the picture quality is pretty terrible.

TYAN S7012:

NCC KZG (red circle):
18x 470uF @ 16V

NCC KY (yellow circle):
4X 220UF @ 16V

SUNCON (blue circle):
5x 1000uF @ 6.3V

The KY's are probably fine... On my Tyan's I've recapped it's only been KZG's and KZJ's that I've replaced (other than an ancient dual slot 1 PII/PIII, that is).

I'd replace the KZG's with Nichicon HN (Post 2005 stock only!) or HE, personally. I've used the former on several Tyans with good results (the boards had other issues, but the caps weren't the culprit).
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Old 05-13-2018, 12:37 PM   #24
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Default Re: Swapping japanese/generic electrolythics with solid-states

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Originally Posted by ratdude747 View Post
The KY's are probably fine... On my Tyan's I've recapped it's only been KZG's and KZJ's that I've replaced (other than an ancient dual slot 1 PII/PIII, that is).

I'd replace the KZG's with Nichicon HN (Post 2005 stock only!) or HE, personally. I've used the former on several Tyans with good results (the boards had other issues, but the caps weren't the culprit).
Thanks. I'm inclined to replace the KYs since I've seen one with a bulged "plug".
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:29 PM   #25
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Default Re: Swapping japanese/generic electrolythics with solid-states

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Originally Posted by Snayperskaya View Post
Thanks. I'm inclined to replace the KYs since I've seen one with a bulged "plug".
KY is a very reliable series. I don't suggest replacing every KY cap. Maybe only the one that has bulged on the bottom, and that's if it really does look bad. Though I am inclined to think perhaps there is/was something else wrong for that cap to bulge.

Also, the Suncon caps are actually Sanyo's. Depending on which series they are, you might not need to replace them. WF series tend to be fairly unreliable. WG is hit or miss (but somewhat okay). And WX is definitely okay. I'm not sure about their other series.
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:09 AM   #26
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Default Re: Swapping japanese/generic electrolythics with solid-states

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Originally Posted by momaka View Post
KY is a very reliable series. I don't suggest replacing every KY cap. Maybe only the one that has bulged on the bottom, and that's if it really does look bad. Though I am inclined to think perhaps there is/was something else wrong for that cap to bulge.
Sometimes the rubber stand-off used for the bungs is crimped in such a way that it stands out “more” (I’ve seen such a rubber bung “look” on some Nichicon PWs before, yet they tested fine and haven’t leaked at all), but usually capacitors that pop their bottoms out (outgas) do so violently, and tend to show visible signs of electrolytic leakage.

Quote:
Also, the Suncon caps are actually Sanyo's. Depending on which series they are, you might not need to replace them. WF series tend to be fairly unreliable. WG is hit or miss (but somewhat okay). And WX is definitely okay. I'm not sure about their other series.
WX I don’t know, I’ve had mixed experiences with them. It might depend on the datecode. I would consider the WX series (given their overall history) the least reliable of all equivalent Japanese series (HD, ZL, KZE, FF/FM, etc).

They (1500F 6.3V 10mmx20mm case sizes) were used interchangeably with Nichicon HD (laminated cases) and Chemi-con KZE on old Intel 815 series (Socket 370) motherboards, and of those three series, as yet, I’ve only seen WX bulge and leak. Same goes for Asus dual Socket 370 motherboards (1500F 6.3V WX and sleeved Nichicon HDs are used interchangeably on them, and I’ve only seen WX fail there).

Also, on many old Asus Socket 939 and LGA775 motherboards, for (what seems to be) RAM decoupling and filtering, they use 330F 6.3V Nichicon HD, ventless Chemi-con KZE, Panasonic FF, LTEC LMB, and Suncon/Sanyo WX interchangeably, and I’ve only seen LMB and WX bulge to this day (the bulge is slight but unmistakable). I’ve also seen some fail on some rather elderly MSI GeForce 3 Ti200 video cards (470F 16V WX). I too had mixed experiences with WG, at least those produced between 2001-2007, but I do consider them (overall) quite a bit better than the bad run of KZG and Nichicon HM (but definitely not as reliable as MBZ and FJ).

In regards to that Tyan board, if the capacitors say SUNCON on the sleeve, that probably means the board was produced after Sanyo sold their electrolytic division to their previous subsidiary (Suncon), which was back in 2009. So that board is at least 2009 vintage, if not newer. I don’t recall Suncon or KZGs with 2009 datecodes or later failing without a good reason, and KY are usually fine. It can’t hurt to replace the caps if the board isn’t working, but I’m starting to wonder if they’re actually the source of the problem.

Last edited by Wester547; 05-14-2018 at 12:27 AM..
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:28 AM   #27
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Default Re: Swapping japanese/generic electrolythics with solid-states

Even the best will fail eventually, with enough heat and time.
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