I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

i would like to explain some things about LED BL. its not Salad you can add what you like, either if you put whole new one doesn't mean you are succeed,

Chinese use all LED 2538 or 3030 for direct LED BL, the trick they used that then write for example your Toshiba. but they took only from Toshiba the Length of the strips, and the amount of the LED and the distances between them. and this they do for all brands as whole TV set LED BL. so its game of chance if the LED are same specification as the original. my way always refer to repair one by one only.

each TV on the PSU we have IC which control the BL and protect the set from over load. with out Manufacture data sheet we cant guess, specially with Toshiba vestel.

this we use the add R to by pass the protector circuit not to reduce the LED power. its matter of V fw. and current in use. when its go higher as designed PSU will cut them off.

on the thread https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47896 post #13 ReeceyBurger123 seems to be saying that the led voltage should rise to 170V at startup before dropping to 119v but mine does not do this so am i correct in assuming that i may have a faulty Psu/driver ?

[Diah]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

on the thread https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47896 post #13 ReeceyBurger123 seems to be saying that the led voltage should rise to 170V at startup before dropping to 119v but mine does not do this so am i correct in assuming that i may have a faulty Psu/driver ?

"ReeceyBurger123" statement correct, but let explain why this happen.
when you plug in or turn on the TV, MB will send first signal to BL_ON so it will turn on full range of Volts that the PSU support also it read High..( in this stage almost the LOGO of brand will be displayed.

after that stage the firmware and other driver will be in place and then will adjust the LED BL regarding the setting so it will go low.

we can always simulated the BL-ON signal within PSU. when we connect 4.7K R between STB and BL_ON and STB PW_ON ( Main board should be disconnected from the PSU when we run this simulating ) . in this case we can check and read all desired Voltage which going out from PSU. this method also we use in some cases to proof weather Fault PSU or MB if there no out put voltage from PSU.

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

"ReeceyBurger123" statement correct, but let explain why this happen.
when you plug in or turn on the TV, MB will send first signal to BL_ON so it will turn on full range of Volts that the PSU support also it read High..( in this stage almost the LOGO of brand will be displayed.

after that stage the firmware and other driver will be in place and then will adjust the LED BL regarding the setting so it will go low.

we can always simulated the BL-ON signal within PSU. when we connect 4.7K R between STB and BL_ON and STB PW_ON ( Main board should be disconnected from the PSU when we run this simulating ) . in this case we can check and read all desired Voltage which going out from PSU. this method also we use in some cases to proof weather Fault PSU or MB if there no out put voltage from PSU.

this all sounds most reasonable but im an idiot not a tv tech what i really need to know is....... before spending any more money would replacing or repairing the power supply fix the problem or not, i have already bought / fitted new led strips which obviously did need replacing anyway as so many were blown. thanks for your patience and support

[Diah]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

i went back to read all yours POST. stop me 2 things 1- you wrote over night was on STB Red LED next day was off.... then other post i think post 27 you wrote same issue but next day when turn on only green LED Flashing... from both i am sure now 99% yours PSU Normal. yours Problem was double MB and BL. BL you fixed but now MB start clear its fault.

leave the screen apart.. never connected again until you have it turn on and BL on for more hours and you can hear sound too.. also this TV can work with out LCD. more time you take LCD in out you will destroy the ribbon cable

post clear photo of the MB there are some of Toshiba Vestel failed with BGA or firmware

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

i went back to read all yours POST. stop me 2 things 1- you wrote over night was on STB Red LED next day was off.... then other post i think post 27 you wrote same issue but next day when turn on only green LED Flashing... from both i am sure now 99% yours PSU Normal. yours Problem was double MB and BL. BL you fixed but now MB start clear its fault.

leave the screen apart.. never connected again until you have it turn on and BL on for more hours and you can hear sound too.. also this TV can work with out LCD. more time you take LCD in out you will destroy the ribbon cable

post clear photo of the MB there are some of Toshiba Vestel failed with BGA or firmware

Ok these are the mainboard. at 1 point when the tv actualy was working for a few hours i did update the firmware to the latest on toshiba website (it had previously been original firmware). the update didnt seem to make any real difference to the operation of the tv just added / changed a couple of items in the menus. hope that helps

[Diah]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

yes this MB what expected, most of them got BGA fault as the CPU chip with out cooling, and many user was added metal shield on it with cool fan.

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

yes this MB what expected, most of them got BGA fault as the CPU chip with out cooling, and many user was added metal shield on it with cool fan.

ok so replace the mainboard then?

will any 17MB95S-1 work or must it be 23123279 only. as i cant find the exact part there are others listed as being for the same model tv but they dont seem to have the same part number.

[Diah]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

ok so replace the mainboard then?

will any 17MB95S-1 work or must it be 23123279 only. as i cant find the exact part there are others listed as being for the same model tv but they dont seem to have the same part number.

No don't replace it now... try give shoot to it,,,as following.. Chip BGA you don't have of course as its belong to professional workshop.. so let do it at home kitchen..

heat your kitchen Oven to 275 degree. also the higher you have ( BUT NO NO AIR FLOW ) again never use air flow Oven. after the oven hot put the main board on Aluminum Kitchen paper don't cover it and place it at the middle leave it 10 minute.. turn off the oven .. open the door and never never touch the board of any inside the oven until it cooling down ... good luck

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

No don't replace it now... try give shoot to it,,,as following.. Chip BGA you don't have of course as its belong to professional workshop.. so let do it at home kitchen..

heat your kitchen Oven to 275 degree. also the higher you have ( BUT NO NO AIR FLOW ) again never use air flow Oven. after the oven hot put the main board on Aluminum Kitchen paper don't cover it and place it at the middle leave it 10 minute.. turn off the oven .. open the door and never never touch the board of any inside the oven until it cooling down ... good luck

well my other half gave me a strange look when i went to check the oven, its not an appliance i would normally touch lol.

the oven goes to 230 C maximum (its a fan oven) but we have a fancy microwave that has grill and convection built in too and that goes to 250 C maximum and im not buying a new oven lol. any other ideas?

just had a thought.......... you did mean C i assume and not F?

[Diah]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

well my other half gave me a strange look when i went to check the oven, its not an appliance i would normally touch lol.

the oven goes to 230 C maximum (its a fan oven) but we have a fancy microwave that has grill and convection built in too and that goes to 250 C maximum and im not buying a new oven lol. any other ideas?

just had a thought.......... you did mean C i assume and not F?

hahaha no way... don't do it.. ... if you have hot air gun. glue the chip and the area around with heat plaster.. and then heat it.. leave it cool then remove the plaster...

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

hahaha no way... don't do it.. ... if you have hot air gun. glue the chip and the area around with heat plaster.. and then heat it.. leave it cool then remove the plaster...

no i dont have heat gun or heat plaster, maybe i should just replace the board but will any 17MB95S-1 work ?

[Diah]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

no i dont have heat gun or heat plaster, maybe i should just replace the board but will any 17MB95S-1 work ?

yes but should for Toshiba and need to flash the firmware again to match..

try other way.. put somethings hard small pieces of any hard material NON Metal under the middle of the big chip then screw the board tight. to make the chip area going to the top round 0.1 mm and try turn on the tv .. you can use also pressing round the chip

[nomoresonys]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

One there, hit the contact seller button on the right, give m your sticker numbers, they can probably confirm if it's the right board, it's from the same link as in post #87. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17MB95S-1...JE7:rk:10:pf:0

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

yes but should for Toshiba and need to flash the firmware again to match..

try other way.. put somethings hard small pieces of any hard material NON Metal under the middle of the big chip then screw the board tight. to make the chip area going to the top round 0.1 mm and try turn on the tv .. you can use also pressing round the chip

i just tried but no amount of pushing / pulling /bending and flexing of the main board seems to make any change, still just a few seconds of backlight when turned on from cold and a split second flash of backlight every subsequent time its turned on.

thanks so much for your help.

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

One there, hit the contact seller button on the right, give m your sticker numbers, they can probably confirm if it's the right board, it's from the same link as in post #87. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17MB95S-1...JE7:rk:10:pf:0

thanks for that link and if all else fails i guess that may have to be the answer but its from Ireland and im in England so with shipping and currency exchange that makes it pretty pricey at nearly £45 which to be honest right now its £45 i could do without spending until i get finished with chemo and back to work.

[Diah]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

i just tried but no amount of pushing / pulling /bending and flexing of the main board seems to make any change, still just a few seconds of backlight when turned on from cold and a split second flash of backlight every subsequent time its turned on.

thanks so much for your help.

then we have only left.. hahahah, roll the MB with Aluminum Kitchen roll , and use the grill in the microwave. but when you rool the MB try that plastic soclet not touch the paper. and give move time to grill it . don't move it until it cool down

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

then we have only left.. hahahah, roll the MB with Aluminum Kitchen roll , and use the grill in the microwave. but when you rool the MB try that plastic soclet not touch the paper. and give move time to grill it . don't move it until it cool down

not sure my home insurance would cover putting pcbs in the microwave and burning the house down as a result lol.

how about .....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOSHIBA-4...9anb:rk:5:pf:0

that says its for 40L1333B and mine is 40L1333DB would that work? its a bit cheaper than the other one that was linked before.

[nomoresonys]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

I see, well you can try baking that board, many recipes on here for baking mainboards.

[nomoresonys]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

not sure my home insurance would cover putting pcbs in the microwave and burning the house down as a result lol.

how about .....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOSHIBA-4...9anb:rk:5:pf:0

that says its for 40L1333B and mine is 40L1333DB would that work? its a bit cheaper than the other one that was linked before.

The numbers on the white sticker are clear, see how they match up with your sticker.

[alerton]

Re: I think i killed it Toshiba 40L1333DB

The numbers on the white sticker are clear, see how they match up with your sticker.

despite being from a very similar model number tv the mainboard part number is not even close to being the same, although physically it looks pretty much identical, just thought it would be worth asking if anyone knows about compatibility.

edit....
i might have just solved my problem. found for sale the same model tv with a smashed screen so should be able to use that to cannibalise for as many parts as i need. shame its 40 miles away but i can cope with that. might even get to find out where to put this 'spare' screw i had left over when i last put it all back together lol