Post your system.......

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

What do you do with so many optical drives?

I like the front grille on the Delux PSU - at least it will let enough air to cool the components.

Also, is it the picture or does that board seem extremely dusty. Either way, I suggest putting a fan on or near the NF3 chipset heatsink - that is, if you want the board to last. NF3 is not as bad as NF4 and newer nForce chipsets, but they can still fail from bumpgate issue.

I'd put a i945 Gigabyte heatsink in there (pretty big)but I'm quite concerned about the GPU airflow. Also the heatsink on the chipset is attached in there with double sided tape. Anyways it doesn't get that hot,as it's cooled by the GPU fan.

[Reuf]

Re: Post your system.......

Specs:

MBO - Asus H97M-E
CPU - i5 4460
RAM - 8GB G.Skill
Storage - Intel 240GB SSD 535
PSU - XFX 450W
Case - NZXT 220
GPU - Nvidia GTX 560

[momaka]

Re: Post your system.......

Okay, so I was looking for a post of mine I made in this thread, and because I couldn't find it at first, I went through this entire thread (yes, all the way back to page 1!) Man, those beige cases and CRT monitors really make me nostalgic. The innovative days of PC computing, for sure.

I have to say, though, Willawake (remember him?) was totally right - this thread does get boring with only specs and no pictures. With that said, any future posts I make here of my system's specs, I will also try to include a picture (and I encourage the same.)

Here, I will (re)post a final version of my Pentium 3 PC setup at my grandmother's countryside house. Pictures:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1445650322
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1445650324
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1445650324

What can I say? as usual.
Every year (for the last 5 years) I say to myself that I will get a desk and I never do. So when I get to the house, I just pull the PC and its bits out of storage and set it up as you see. When I leave, everything is taken apart and stored again.

Anyways, here are the PC specifications:
- CPU: 933 MHz Intel Pentium 3 Coppermine @ 133 MHz FBS
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-60XT ATX motherboard (socket 370)
- RAM: 512 MB SDRAM @ 133 MHz (2x 128 MB and 1x 256 MB)
- Video Card: (Mad Dog?) ATI Radeon 7200 with 64 MB video RAM
- Sound Card: Yamaha YMF-724 (DS-XG/DS-1) PCI audio card with TEA2025 dedicated amp IC
- HDD: 1x 120 GB IBM Deskstar with 99k power-on hours (but zero bad and reallocated sectors)
- Optical drive: LG CED-8080B CD-RW
- PSU: 250W Deer DR-250ATX (partially recaped and modded)
- CASE: cheap. Enough said.
- Monitor: Dell (Samsung) M782 17" CRT monitor (dumpster-picked, very good condition and no screen burn-in)
- Keyboard: old (but still a rubber-dome type), has "Turbo" key
- Mouse: Genius optical. Not sure what model, but it is okay quality and is quiet in terms of button click noise.
- Speakers: from a Sharp CMS-R400CDH stereo system. 3-way, with 4", 8 Ohm drivers IIRC. Rated for 10 Watts RMS. Driven directly by the amp on the Yamaha sound card above. They sound pretty good and can still go fairly loud.
- OS: Windows XP SP2 (as usual)

Overall, the PC specs are pretty much the same as I posted them before. Old specs can be seen here:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=314
Really, the only things I have changed is:
- the hard drive, which formerly consisted of 1x 17 GB Seagate ST317221A and 1x 20 GB Maxtor 5T020H2 - both of which are still inside the PC. If for some reason the IBM Deskstar fails, I can hook the old HDDs back, and PC will be running again.
- the monitor (the old '94/'95 Sony Trinitron M41KKA16X is starting to get tired and there is either bad caps inside its video signal board or bad joints because the curved vertical streaks that it had when I got it are starting to get worse)
- added some resistors and diodes in series with the fan inside the PSU, because it is hardwired to 12V otherwise, and it really does make a lot of noise.
- the speakers above... I used to use headphones only before, or a cheap pair of those typical low-quality rectangular PC speakers that came free with many PCs back in the day. These Sharp speakers are so much better.

So that's the whole PC setup. I don't think I am going to change anything on it anymore. It used mostly for transferring/storing pictures while I am there, listening to music, and the occasional older game like Counter-Strike 1.5 (talk about oldschool there ), Need For Speed (High Stakes or Porsche Unleashed), and Mafia. Those games run absolutely wonderful on that PC.

Anyways, more pics and specs of my ghetto PCs will be coming this or next week (hopefully).

Or as JP once said in this thread:

Junk Parts has junk parts!

Man, I sure miss him and his posts. RIP JP!

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

- PSU: 250W Deer DR-250ATX (partially recaped and modded)
- CASE: cheap. Enough said.

That case is also built by Deer. The side panel drawing (or whatever that is) gives it away. For a matter,my "TronForce3" system uses a JNC (Deer) case that has the same panel. It has fancy thermal sensors It's one of the newer ones which came with the usual gutless Deers - the ones with 2003 and 2005 chips. I still have 2 of the 2003 ones. One is a solid 250-300W (though 250W more likely due to 4 diodes on the primary and EI-33ASH transformer)and the other is a 200W. (the former that I use is the Fortrex ST-400W (see pic of its guts) and the other is some noname PSU (literally no label)based on the same platform (Y-B2002) as the Fortrex ST-400W)

And yes,the K bungs on the caps on the Deer I use with my dual core PC (Pentium E2160 1.80GHz) are legit Rubycons. I actually checked that. Two Ruby ZLs and a Rubycon MHZ - do you have any idea if this is some discontinued series?

Man, I sure miss him and his posts. RIP JP!

Sorry if I ask,but what happened to him?

[momaka]

Re: Post your system.......

That case is also built by Deer. The side panel drawing (or whatever that is) gives it away.

Really? You mean that planet logo (can also be seen on the front of the case)?

Well, that's good to know, because I always wondered who made this piece of... well, I'll refrain from cursing here. Let's just say the metal is so thin that tin cans are probably more robust. But it serves the purpose, I guess.

That said, the current Deer PSU inside it did not actually come with that case. It came from a different PC I trash picked. It's just a coincidence that I put it in a Deer case again. Maybe Deers like to stick together.

And yes,the K bungs on the caps on the Deer I use with my dual core PC (Pentium E2160 1.80GHz) are legit Rubycons. I actually checked that. Two Ruby ZLs and a Rubycon MHZ - do you have any idea if this is some discontinued series?

Either discontinued or custom order for someone (board manufacturer I mean) - at least that's what I gathered from my research.

You can see an Intel board here has those MHZs:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4724
And also, AudioJade on eBay has some for sale as well:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170PCS-2200U...-/351004745614
According to him, these are from motherboards as well.

So most likely your Deer was recapped by someone before you got it. Deer doesn't use recycled caps as far as I know. so no chance at all it came like that from the factory.

Sorry if I ask,but what happened to him?

He passed away this summer.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46786
Really nice and funny person, to say the least.

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

Really? You mean that planet logo (can also be seen on the front of the case)?

Well, that's good to know, because I always wondered who made this piece of... well, I'll refrain from cursing here. Let's just say the metal is so thin that tin cans are probably more robust. But it serves the purpose, I guess.

That said, the current Deer PSU inside it did not actually come with that case. It came from a different PC I trash picked. It's just a coincidence that I put it in a Deer case again. Maybe Deers like to stick together.

Yeah,that's a Deer case 100%. I actually have one (mf'd by JNC,one of Deer's companies,that is until they got to 400 and 450W - from then on they had some CWT-like number instead of the JN21XA model of numbering) with the same drawing. Hell,even one of the computers in a school I've went had one of those - different front panel though. Mine has thermal sensors attached to an board on the front panel. I went with a Delux I added PI coils on,as it was pretty good built.

You actually are pretty lucky,again,for finding this. JNC/Deer's SJA line is even worse - they actually integrated the panel and mounting holes on one side,and only the side panel can be removed. Not to mention,it's even thinner than this,and the ENTIRE case is riveted,unlike yours (and my black one) which uses screws for the top,has both panels removable,and has a mounting panel.

Either discontinued or custom order for someone (board manufacturer I mean) - at least that's what I gathered from my research.

You can see an Intel board here has those MHZs:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4724
And also, AudioJade on eBay has some for sale as well:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170PCS-2200U...-/351004745614
According to him, these are from motherboards as well.

So most likely your Deer was recapped by someone before you got it. Deer doesn't use recycled caps as far as I know. so no chance at all it came like that from the factory.

I actually knew the giveaway that it was recapped - Teapos mixed with Rubycons.

Deers are pretty reliable if you take your time to mod it - in fact,I gave a recapped Premier LC-C400ATX (caps used - Sunon (Sanyo) 3300uF 16v for well....EVERYTHING )with a Pentium 4 2.8GHz. It was up to the job - 2x 30A rectifiers,one for 3.3 and one for 5v. 16A for 12v but that wasn't too much of a problem.

Might continue this with the LC-B450E I have. It's the same platform as the LC-C400ATX,and also it's got two 20A rectifiers in parallel for 5V!40A for 5v,that's pretty much enough to power a mid-to-high end Athlon XP rig!

As for the LC-B400ATX...well it's going to sit as it is for a time. I have no 30A rectifiers for 5v and 3.3v,and absolutely no rectifiers for 12v.

[momaka]

Re: Post your system.......

Mine has thermal sensors attached to an board on the front panel.

That's pretty nice to have . Hopefully the sensors are well-calibrated, though. I have a front door from a (different) PC case with those kind of sensors too, but since I hate cases with doors, I removed it from that case. It's been sitting in my closet for 3 years now. I tend to keep my PC simple .

You actually are pretty lucky,again,for finding this.

If you are talking about my PC case above - I didn't find it. I bought it new for 11 Euro back in 2005/2006 for a PC build.

The PSU I bought separately. It was originally this crappy L&C LC-B300ATX PSU. 7 Euro for that POS. It couldn't even power a Pentium II PC with S3 Savage 4 video card properly, which is the system I had in that case at the time. It would often reboot while playing "intensive" games like Need For Speed High Stakes (yes, SO INTENSIVE, I know! ). I then put the Pentium 3 PC guts that I listed above, and the rebooting became unbearable. That's when I changed to the Deer PSU above, and all has been good since then.

So moral of the story is, those cheap Deer and L&C PSUs are complete crap without some modding. Adding the PI coils and having proper capacitance is an absolute must - especially if they will be used with older PCs that have SDRAM (since SDRAM is usually directly powered from the 3.3V rail and thus is very susceptible to ripple on the 3.3V rail).

Not to mention,it's even thinner than this

Thinner than my case above? I must see that with my own eyes to believe it. That case above is absolutely the thinnest stuff I have seen. The back area where the expansion cards are mounted is probably the worst - the metal gets twisted in all sorts of ways.

Deers are pretty reliable if you take your time to mod it

That, I do agree with.
With all of the proper components, they will actually last a pretty long time and not fail or cause trouble. Sure they may be a bit inefficient, of course.
But in my case, I'm using it with a Pentium 3 PC that probably doesn't draw more than 60 Watts from the wall. So, no big deal for me.

also it's got two 20A rectifiers in parallel for 5V!40A for 5v...

Okay, not quite. Two 20A rectifiers in parallel does not give you 40 Amps total. You will get maybe 30 Amps at the most, if even that. 25-26 A is more realistic.
Why? Because as diodes heat up, their forward voltage (Vf) decreases. Thus, the rectifier that heats up more becomes less "resistive" to current and even more current goes through it, thus heating it up even more. Now these rectifiers are mounted on a heatsink, so technically, they will both have about the same temperature. That said, there will still be some small differences in their temperature, and that is why you won't be able to get the full 40 Amp capacity.

[Wester547]

Re: Post your system.......

Okay, not quite. Two 20A rectifiers in parallel does not give you 40 Amps total. You will get maybe 30 Amps at the most, if even that. 25-26 A is more realistic.
Why? Because as diodes heat up, their forward voltage (Vf) decreases. Thus, the rectifier that heats up more becomes less "resistive" to current and even more current goes through it, thus heating it up even more. Now these rectifiers are mounted on a heatsink, so technically, they will both have about the same temperature. That said, there will still be some small differences in their temperature, and that is why you won't be able to get the full 40 Amp capacity.

Well, if you take into account the airflow from the fan, that may stabilize the temperature further. Also note that those rectifiers are rated at very high temperatures (at least 100*C) - they are unlikely to run that hot in a well cooled and ventilated PSU, which means you can draw more current from them (even though their voltage drop would be higher as a result). Also, dual diode packages manage to spread the current evenly enough between the two diodes because they are so closely coupled together, in the same package.

I also rather like the honeycomb stamps on Dan81's PSU. But then cheap PSUs only seem to really specialize in good "looks", not good "internals"...

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

That's pretty nice to have . Hopefully the sensors are well-calibrated, though. I have a front door from a (different) PC case with those kind of sensors too, but since I hate cases with doors, I removed it from that case. It's been sitting in my closet for 3 years now. I tend to keep my PC simple .

The sensors actually seem to monitor the temperature of whatever they are taped to. I taped them to the HDD. Two of them show different temperatures,and the last one just shows two blinking lines. (it's supposed to say "HI" from high temperature)


If you are talking about my PC case above - I didn't find it. I bought it new for 11 Euro back in 2005/2006 for a PC build.

The PSU I bought separately. It was originally this crappy L&C LC-B300ATX PSU. 7 Euro for that POS. It couldn't even power a Pentium II PC with S3 Savage 4 video card properly, which is the system I had in that case at the time. It would often reboot while playing "intensive" games like Need For Speed High Stakes (yes, SO INTENSIVE, I know! ). I then put the Pentium 3 PC guts that I listed above, and the rebooting became unbearable. That's when I changed to the Deer PSU above, and all has been good since then.

So moral of the story is, those cheap Deer and L&C PSUs are complete crap without some modding. Adding the PI coils and having proper capacitance is an absolute must - especially if they will be used with older PCs that have SDRAM (since SDRAM is usually directly powered from the 3.3V rail and thus is very susceptible to ripple on the 3.3V rail).[/quote]

I know. Weird enough - the LC-B400ATX I got was powering a 1.1GHz Celeron,60GB Maxtor (D540X,and of course it had bad sectors. Still works though ) and a MX440 64MB,all on a ECS P6VXAT board. That one has the same green "AC 230V" label you have,save for a "SCS" fan (that's the brand) that was in there because I guess the original fan failed.

Thinner than my case above? I must see that with my own eyes to believe it. That case above is absolutely the thinnest stuff I have seen. The back area where the expansion cards are mounted is probably the worst - the metal gets twisted in all sorts of ways.

Yes. It was even thinner than your case.

Here's a older one I have:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=467

Even worse,there's actually a singe panel. In fact,that case had the other side built into the whole roof. I left it "rust " in my closet. This one I have is much better. BTW,it's the beige case. That black one was a Delux MT375 (which was pretty good) which I scrapped (was taking up space) when I got the BMW-styled one,the Delux MG760. (which I really need to paint up as Megas XLR,as at the moment it looks really scratched)

That, I do agree with.
With all of the proper components, they will actually last a pretty long time and not fail or cause trouble. Sure they may be a bit inefficient, of course.
But in my case, I'm using it with a Pentium 3 PC that probably doesn't draw more than 60 Watts from the wall. So, no big deal for me.

Yeah,Deers may be a bit inefficient,but if it's not causing too much problems it's okay. I actually have a Premier LC-B450E (I actually included the "manufacturer" here due to most of the B450E models being based on the LC-B300ATX) which is pretty much just a newer version of your Deer.

Here's a post of yours how it looks.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=492

Mine actually has PI coils,and the common mode choke is made of copper (Sun Pro,I quite look at you ) instead of crappy wire. And,the PI coils aren't bypassed by traces. And even funnier,of all the caps,only one near an resistor leaked through the glue. I mean,only one? I was expecting to have to replace a good lot of caps on the secondary but instead it was just only one. I removed it with some pliers. Left the other caps in there as it works fine. At least for now.

Okay, not quite. Two 20A rectifiers in parallel does not give you 40 Amps total. You will get maybe 30 Amps at the most, if even that. 25-26 A is more realistic.
Why? Because as diodes heat up, their forward voltage (Vf) decreases. Thus, the rectifier that heats up more becomes less "resistive" to current and even more current goes through it, thus heating it up even more. Now these rectifiers are mounted on a heatsink, so technically, they will both have about the same temperature. That said, there will still be some small differences in their temperature, and that is why you won't be able to get the full 40 Amp capacity.

That shouldn't be a problem to achieve full capacity,seeing that the fan is wired to 12v and that I have an AVC DS08025T12UP033 leafblower fan with "1B1S bearing". One thing that makes me laugh is it says 0.7A. AVC,you pretty sure of that?

Anyways,for pure torture,it's going to be recapped and installed in a 3GHz Prescott. That being with the AVC fan,of course.

[synapsea]

Re: Post your system.......

Dell 780 Core2Quad Q8300 2.33GHZ
8GB Ram DDR3
Nvidia Geforce GT430 2GB Vram
1TB HDD + 320GB + 250GB
DVD-RW DL
Windows 10 X64 + Open Suse 13.2 + Ubuntu 14.04 LTS

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

My rigs - v3.0


Rig 1 - MAIN:

JNC LC-B300ATX (ex-Fortrex ST-400W,in reality just changed the labels)
Pentium Dual Core E2160 1.8GHz
2GB DDR2 RAM
ASUS P5GC-MX/1333
Geforce GT210 1GB 64-bit DDR3
1TB Samsung HD103SI
Delux MG-760 ATX case - pretty sturdy quality,hope I can find a 250W 12 cm fan FSP to use with the above configuration
Windows 7 x64 SP1

Rig 2:
Delux ATX-450W - KissQuiet OEM
AMD Athlon 64 3000+ 754
1GB DDR400
EPoX EP-8KDA7I
ATI Radeon HD3450 512MB AGP
80GB Maxtor 6Y080L0
JNC/Deer 8673-4JA case
Windows 7 x64 SP1

Rig 3:
Codegen 300X1 300W
Pentium 4 1.7GHz Willamette
1GB DDR400
Gigabyte GA-8IE2004
Gigabyte Geforce FX5500 128MB
8GB WDC Protege WD80EB-28CGH1
Windows 98 SE w/Plus!

Rig 4:

Delux ATX-450W (Sun Pro Built)
Celeron 2GHz Northwood-128
128MB DDR400
Biostar U8668-D w/ Soyo P4VGM BIOS (for AGP8X support)
Gecube Radeon 9550 (R9550GU2-D3H) 256MB AGP8X - BGA RAM
60GB Maxtor D540X - needs to be replaced as the PC it came from had a Deer PSU which caused lots of bad sectors
Windows XP SP2

[dragos2009]

Re: Post your system.......

Main System:"Psu killer"
CPU: Athlon 64 X2 6000+
Motherboard:Acer M1200
Ram: 3GB DDR2 800MHZ
Gpu:Onboard Ati Radeon HD2100
Power Supply: A Fire Starter Capable "Delux 400W" that's full of pannys,rubys and sanyo's
Case: Noname but i like it
Cooling:1x120 Papst fan out of an old ibm server still running like new
Storage:80 GB WD Caviar SE
Optical:Lg DVD-RW
OS:Windows 7 Ultimate X86

[dmill89]

Re: Post your system.......

My old laptop was getting a bit slow so I decided to upgrade and got a great deal on this little monster:

Dell Precision M4600:
CPU: Intel I7-2860QM
RAM 16GB DDR3-1600
SSD: 256GB Samsung 830Pro
Optical: HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GS30N (soon to be upgraded to a BD-RW drive)
GPU: Nvidia Quadro 1000M 2GB
Screen: 15.6" LED backlit IPS 1920X1080
OS: Win7 Pro 64-bit

It is incredibly fast and built like a tank, of course there are a few minor downsides: It weighs around 6lbs, sucks down a 9 cell 97Wh battery in about 3.5 hrs. and the 180w power brick is literally the size and weight of a brick.

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: Post your system.......

though 250W more likely due to 4 diodes on the primary

Tell me about it, especially the Americas, Taiwan and Japan, which are at 127 V max.

We need more gutsy components because more amps will be drawn.

(Unless I use a dryer or range plug, LOL)

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: Post your system.......

Here, I will (re)post a final version of my Pentium 3 PC setup at my grandmother's countryside house. Pictures:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1445650322

I see a different style outlet!

[momaka]

Re: Post your system.......

^ Yup, that's a Schuko plug, because that house is in Eastern Europe.

[Compgeke]

Re: Post your system.......

Might as well revive this thread. Picked up a new laptop today for $400 (CL Deal):

Dell Latitude E6440
2.9 GHz Core i7 4600M
8 GB DDR3-12800 (2x 4 GB)
320 GB 7.2k HDD
AMD 8690M GPU
1600x900 screen
9 cell battery
backlit keyboard.

Going to shove the SSD from my T410 into it and later find an adapter to replace the optical drive with an HDD. Alternatively I might just find an mSATA SSD and keep the DVD burner.

[dmill89]

Re: Post your system.......

So I finally retired my old Core2Quad Q9450 desktop and built this:
CPU: Intel I7-4790
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB DDR3-1600 (2X8GB)
Video Card: Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9-380 (4GB)
SSD: Crucial BX-200 240GB
HDD: Toshiba HWD110XZSTA (1TB 72000RPM)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212-Evo
PSU: PC Power & Cooling Silencer 910W
Case: Cooler Master HAF-932
DVD-RW Drive: Samsung SuperWriteMaster SH-S203N (re-used from old system)
Blu-Ray-RW: LG SuperMulti-Blue BH12LS38 (re-used from old system)
Misc: Memory Card Reader
OS: Windows 7 Pro SP1 64-bit

[ChaosLegionnaire]

Re: Post your system.......

errr why do ppl always buy a z-series board when they arent buying a k-suffix cpu for overclocking? it doesnt make sense. get a h-series board instead which is cheaper if u arent getting an overclocking cpu. why waste money on an elephant u arent using?

[dmill89]

Re: Post your system.......

errr why do ppl always buy a z-series board when they arent buying a k-suffix cpu for overclocking? it doesnt make sense. get a h-series board instead which is cheaper if u arent getting an overclocking cpu. why waste money on an elephant u arent using?

The Z series boards tend to have a better feature set (not just overclocking ability, M2 slot, SATA_Express, better integrated audio, more ports and headers, better cooling, more robust VRM, etc.) and the price difference is negligible (at least in the US), often less than $10 difference for an equivalent board. While Gigabyte no longer makes an H97 board that is a direct equivalent to the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 (the GA-H97-Gaming 3 has been discontinued or at least no one stocks it), for comparison purposes they do still make the GA-H97-HD3 and GA-Z97-HD3 which are equivalent to each other aside from the chipset and the price difference is only $5 (S98 vs. $102 on Newegg).