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Old 11-18-2017, 03:30 PM   #21
stj
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Default Re: XBOX Original - Won't power on

these need to be very good caps,
next time i do an xbox i will try a polymod - previously i used MBZ or MCZ.
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Old 11-18-2017, 09:26 PM   #22
Relayer
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Default Re: XBOX Original - Won't power on

Hey guys,
I spent a few years installing modchips and repairing original X-Boxes, under my old Forum name of "Darkmatter".
I used to post regularly on the now gone llamma.com Forum.
When replacing the clock capacitor, make sure you check the surface of the main board where the cap was situated. Nine times out of ten it will have leaked. You need to clean that area thoroughly, with isopropyl alcohol or methelated spirits.
Have a very close look at the tracks coming from the clock caps mounting holes to see if any of the tracks have been corroded. Use a magnifying glass or similar with good lighting when you check it out.
If you do find tracks eaten, then you will need to repair the tracks.
The cap can be replaced with a super cap as shown in the link below:

[URL=http://www.jaycar.com.au/22f-2-5vdc-super-capacitor/p/RE6702[/URL]

Once again: "Insert Link" option not working properly.

If you're not living in Australia you can try Mouser or EBay. But make sure its rated voltage is 2.5 volts. You could use a 3V one, but nothing higher.
I found that the X-Box, after using the 22F cap, allowed it to keep its clock for over 3 weeks with the X-Box unplugged entirely.
If you do replace it with a higher capacitance cap, you may need to lay the cap on its side, and bend the leads accordingly for it to fit below the drives.

I have found many common faults with X-Boxes, but overall thay were pretty reliable performers.
Some faults and preventative maintenance issues I've listed below:
(1) The two pin mains input socket on the PSU was extremely notorious for cracked and dry joints. You're best off re-soldering them regardless if you've never had any problems with this issue.
(2) The varistor close to the mains input socket was also a major problem.
The varistor was either blue or tan in color depending upon the version of the PSU.
The picture below shows the destruction of the mains fuse and varistor when it decides to let fly:



X-Boxes have been known to catch fire due to the varistor self destructing, so if you ever have to replace one, make sure you encapsulate it with heat-shrink tubing. It will keep the flame out within the heat-shrink and not blacken any other components nearby.
It was strongly suspected that the varistor's internal molecular structure changed every time it copped spikes and other transients, therefore it reached a point that it was no longer doing its job and explodes due to it shorting out.
This fault was more prevalent on X-Box PSU's that had the faulty joints on the mains socket.
The replacement type was: JNR 14D241K Though my replacements were made by JNR, you can source elsewhere provided you use 14D241K as your reference.
One last thing: Most spike suppression power boards and other PSU's, especially the cheaper Chinese ones use varistors and they are also prone to the molecular change within the device. It makes it worse if you live in a country, province or town where the mains voltage is not well regulated.
Unfortunately switch-mode power supplies in nearly all appliances contribute to the mains problems.
(3) Another fault is being described in this thread. Caps bulging on the motherboard.
New caps should be rated at 10WV, working temp rating of 105 and MUST be low ESR high ripple types such as: TX or WL-R Series caps
(4) On earlier versions of X-Boxes, there was a problem of corrosion found on two particular spots on the motherboard. This corrosion was caused at the factory, and over time, corroded even further until the motherboard failed. Versions that were affected: V1.0 to V1.3. No later versions were found with this issue.
Here are the symptoms due to corroded tracks:
(a) The X-Box fails to power down using the power on/off button on the front panel. The power cord has to be pulled out to shut it down.
(2) As soon as the power cord is plugged in, the X-Box powers up without pressing either the on/off or eject buttons.
(3) While the X-Box is on for a certain amount of time, it shuts down by itself for no reason. The time factor before shut down can vary wildly.

The only fix for this is to bypass the affected tracks using Kynar wire.
If anyone needs help in this regard, then please PM me with your email addy and I'll send them my tutorial on how to wire things up and at what points.
Other tutorials:
* Varistor repair
* Voltage change: From 110V AC to 240V AC and vice-versa (Not all versions of PSU's).
* Version 1.6 PSU SMD transistor equivalent replacement
* Headphone amplifier creation and installation
* Version 1.6 "No Video" fix
* I used to have a hard disk drive activity LED tutorial but can't find it at the moment. I'll post it up if I find it
* I also had a tute to install color changing LED's within the ROM drives when ever the tray was open. It looked like fireworks were coming from inside the drive. I'll have to look for that as well.

Any questions regarding the original X-Boxes can you please put into the Forum discussion and not via a PM. Thanx.
By the way, I had extremely limited experience on X-Box 360's and any others manufactured after the original ones stopped production. Therefore I have little or no info I can share with you.
Regards,
Relayer

P.S. Sorry for the long arsed post...
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