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Old 12-10-2011, 11:15 PM   #1
asand1
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Default Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Our Halo 3 edition (Elite) Xbox went RROD about three months ago. The wife looked into sending it to Microshaft, but they wanted $100 due to it being beyond the RROD extended warranty (over 3 years old). I searched the interwebs looking for fixes and mods that made sense to me. This is the process I used today to correct the failure.

First off, was the Arctic Silver 5 and reflow, while retaining original x clamps. I reflowed by powering the unit on with the fans unplugged, and waited till it flashed the two left red lights to indicate an overheat.

Second was bypassing the PWM'd transistor for the exhaust fans. This was to supply the 12v fans with constant 12v rather than an average of 5.4v. Ignore the red line. The yellow line depicts the jumper from the 12v leg of the transistor to the positive post on the fan header. the two outer posts are soldered to the same trace and powered by the same transistor. I used a lead sourced from a resistor. I went this way, rather than tapping into the DVD drive power because i read that tapping could lead to glitchy dvd operation and possible Live banning. On a side note, I believe the ban would be due to intermittent power to the DVD looking like a DVD delete to Microshaft, rather than out of spec power consumption. Sorry a did not take pics, and had to borrow from the net.

Next, I soldered leads with a two post female plug to the underside of the mobo at the power header. I re-purposed an old two post header for the fan connector. The 50mm Cooler Master fan was mounted on top of the remote GPU heat sink. The wires were ran up the right side of the exhaust cowling and under the mobo at the base of the exhaust fan.

Heat sinks are originally more passive than anything. I applied aluminum tape to the tops of the main heat sinks and bridged the gaps between the cowling and sinks. This pic shows a poorer version of my tape job. Red and blue lines depict the power lead routing for auxiliary fan.

I was limited to internal mods due to the unit being Halo 3 edition and not wanting change the appearance. After finally assembling the Xbox, the wife and I played multi-player Halo 3 and 1 for 1 hour with no issues.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 12v exhaust.JPG (131.2 KB, 124 views)
File Type: jpg power tap.JPG (10.7 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg xbox360mod.JPG (100.5 KB, 142 views)

Last edited by asand1; 12-10-2011 at 11:44 PM..
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:45 AM   #2
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

12v is LOUD. You should settle for something like the 7V or 9V mod. It won't last long. Maybe a year.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:46 AM   #3
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Good save! Last time I tried to fix an XBOX 360 with the RROD it only worked for about ~7 minutes, then it died again.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:51 AM   #4
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

It was a good thing that the Xbox 360 did not have a logic seal, which is usually found on gaming (e.g. slot) machines and sometimes cable boxes.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:26 AM   #5
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Update:
Its freezing during gameplay. According to my daughter it also happened right before the RROD.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:57 AM   #6
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

I like your way of reflowing the solder! My solution to the cooling problem would be to just use a separate power supply and tape (or zip-tie) something like this to the heat sinks

EDIT: it looks like that way of re-flowing might not be so effective after all. I missed that last post originally.
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Last edited by c_hegge; 12-11-2011 at 03:04 AM..
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:39 AM   #7
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Quote:
Originally Posted by asand1 View Post
Update:
Its freezing during gameplay. According to my daughter it also happened right before the RROD.
The only way to fix this is to reball the gpu with 63-37 leaded solder balls.
This is not an easy task & to be able to do it successfully is to practice on scrap boards first to gain experience.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:41 AM   #8
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Re-balls with leaded balls do not last long from what I have heard. Reflows have better success rates. Just make sure you flux it when you reflow.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:15 PM   #9
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Rrod again this morning. Will try heat gun and bolts/washers next. Thinking a new slim sounds good. Maybe install my case on a new elite along with cooling mods. This sucks.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:59 PM   #10
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Using bolts causes another problem which I discovered happened to my Xenon. The effect is called "tinning". Fine, you've now applied pressure to ensure good contact, but I believe that this accelerates the tinning. Tinning (I hope I'm referencing the correct term) is when the solder "legs" start to grow very small, fine horizontal "branches". When they reach the next contact, it causes a short.

Your best bet is the slim. They are hackable now. Last I checked, they were using Kamikaze method, which is a bit dangerous, but things may have changed. The design of the Xenon was just completely flawed (And I noticed you have a Xenon with a newer heatpipe GPU heatsink), in that the GPU just produced waaaay too much heat and the heatsink was just too small.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:02 PM   #11
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Don't spend money on new clamps, you don't know if the thing is going to die again.
Just get a heatgun and hit it with 1000* for 10 minutes let it air cool for an hour and half, rebuild the xbox, keep cooling fan/exhaust fan high and don't ever let the xbox get hot, luke warm is OK, but not hot.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:57 PM   #12
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

That oughta blow up the capacitors and warp the board.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:01 PM   #13
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Remove the caps first obviously.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:45 PM   #14
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Pulling caps from a Xenon motherboard is like pulling hens teeth. One of the most stubborn moetherboards I have ever worked on. I ruined about half of the capacitors I pulled.

I even tried special braid designed for lead-free solder to clear the holes. I think for this board you really do need a high wattage iron.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Quote:
Originally Posted by mockingbird View Post
Pulling caps from a Xenon motherboard is like pulling hens teeth. One of the most stubborn moetherboards I have ever worked on. I ruined about half of the capacitors I pulled.

I even tried special braid designed for lead-free solder to clear the holes. I think for this board you really do need a high wattage iron.
the needle trick works well for these instances... the only catch is that you have to solder the new caps with lead-free solder. I've found that 99.3/.7 sn/cu melts at a decent temp.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:05 PM   #16
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

^
We're talking about putting the originals back in once the reflow is done. Needles are no good for getting them out without destroying them.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:27 PM   #17
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Quote:
Originally Posted by c_hegge View Post
^
We're talking about putting the originals back in once the reflow is done. Needles are no good for getting them out without destroying them.
as hot as xboxes get, i'd use new ones just to be safe... polys if you are really daring.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:51 PM   #18
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

I'm done with the pos. Was playing with the wife when it frozen again. She employed that I fucked it up so I stomped it. It can go to hell.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:56 PM   #19
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:21 PM   #20
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Default Re: Xbox RROD succesfully fixed plus modded

Quote:
Originally Posted by mockingbird View Post
That oughta blow up the capacitors and warp the board.
I've done it before with caps, but then again wagner heatgun says 10 amp 1000*F, I seriously doubt that. But then again I can feel the heat coming off the boards I've hit. I think it's more of me keeping a distances and not staying in one place for too long, and jumping between dies and then circling the board to keep the temp stable.
But what do I know. I've got good success with this method unless it's nvidia then it will just die in a week anyways.
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