Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
The battery appears to be wrapped and no real good markings visible on it. I suspect it should be just as good as both vacuums have similar runtimes (~7.5 minutes) and initial battery capacities (3.6V@1.3Ah vs 3.6V@1.5Ah).
Heck the motor is about the same size too.
Well I put it together with some damage, the plastic seems to have gotten very brittle over the years. With the battery charged to 4.2V it seems that the charger has cut off. Have to see if it charges correctly after it's discharged a bit.
The vacuum cleaner really SUCKS now!!! Even compared with the original NiCd cells, then again the original NiCds were quite used up.
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
We'll see how long it lasts and if it goes up in smoke. I don't know what protection this thing really has.
7.5 minutes is ⅛ hour, which is an immense load. 1.5Ah / ⅛h = 12A (in the "new" vacuum. The old battery in the old vacuum was 1.3Ah/⅛h = 10.4A) I suspect the Li-ion may last a few more seconds in the old vacuum due to 200mAh higher capacity...
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
At least yours was intended to run on LiIon from the factory Vac still hasn't returned...guess he got lucky this time or the cells were of better quality and resisted the abuse better
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
Must admit I haven't seen a BATTERY operated wet/dry vac...what brand might this be ? Sounds pretty "power hungry", at least by directly comparing it with a mains-unit - a Karcher - I use at home which is 3000w
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
It's an old Hoover, and yes 10A...though only at 3.6V = 36 watts.
Only good for small spills but sometimes that's what you need. Anything bigger I need to use the shop vac.
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
The thing I wonder is if I can use the old charger... after all, what is this circuit board for if it doesn't appear to have overdischarge cutoff (since it appears to hook the + and - directly to the output/motor)?
Must be some charge controller?
If so, then the old NiCd charger should work
I should test this outside my house somewhere away flammables...
NOPE. Forgot, the charger is AC. This won't work :\
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
Well, looks like that circuit board is indeed a charge protection board and will cut off power when the battery is fully charged.
The weird thing is that the original wall wart for the li-ion cell appears to be 15V @ 150mA. I have a suspicion that the original wall wart which didn't come with the vacuum has a fairly high impedance for a power supply, else the charger would dissipate way too much power while charging the extremely low impedance of the battery.
Suspecting the wall wart is a CC PSU versus a CV/CC PSU most Li-ion chargers are. Very weird indeed.
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
there's a lot of shit sold to the public.
there are some very nice led flashlights from china worth getting but being cautious with.
they have a charging connector on them - NOT usb.
here is one - ignore the Lumens bullshit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4200...818422476.html
now here's the catch.
the charge-port goes directly to the battery contacts,
and the only thing in the car charger is a fucking resistor!!!
(well 2 if you include the one for the led)
btw, *never* buy these with the battery - it's a slavage job with no protection circuit - even if the label says otherwise.
Suspecting the wall wart is a CC PSU versus a CV/CC PSU most Li-ion chargers are. Very weird indeed.
I think I encountered this setup with a Braun epilator a while back: someone brought it in for repair and the wall-wart was dead. It was sealed VERY tightly - not only was the case virtually impossible to crack without destroying it, but the insides were also completely sealed in hard wax, so there was no way any sane human being would service that at component level, made most sense to replace it entirely. I thought, no problem, I'll just dig through my box of wall warts and find one with identical voltage and maybe higher current for the nice lady.
The original was 6v at (I think) 200mA. Before that however, I wanted to make sure the device itself runs fine and the internal battery isn't shot, so I cut the dedicated plug off the original dead adapter, stripped the ends, hooked up some alligator clips to my bench supply and applied 6v: to my surprise the current shot up to the supply's maximum 1.5a capacity and entered OC protection...what gives ? Great, I thought, the thing's busted as well.
However, next I tried slowly increasing the voltage from 0v to keep the current below the supply's limit to see what happens: again, much to my surprise, it didn't behave like a dead-short would, i.e. the current didn't remain constant indefinitely, but instead begin to drop...almost....like a....battery getting.....charged...OOOOOHH I see: so the adapter is a CC supply and adjusts the voltage up/down based on the current. My supply at the time only did CV, so I had to manually increase the voltage when the current dropped. The charge LED was also on, so I let it sit for around an hour and then tried it out: it worked...my colleague and I even tried it on the hairs on our arms...you know, for testing purposes ....hurts like a Mo-fo BTW...yeah, we did a lot of stupid sh!t back at my old shop...those were the days I'd like to take a moment to thank all the ladies out there for putting themselves through pain to make themselves more attractive for us
So this meant my idea with the replacement adapter went down the drain, since they're all CV and my colleague ended up contacting the local Braun dealer and ordering an original wall-wart. Imagine getting a 3a+ supply and hooking it up to the device (like I originally planned): instant dead cell I'd say and possibly some smoke, UNLESS the device had OC protection inside of it as well. I DID find an adapter which did 5v at 200mA, so the "CC" was merely the supply's limit and not an active current sensing...it worked this way as well, but we figured the best way was to go with the original one rather than half-assing something like this.
now here's the catch.
the charge-port goes directly to the battery contacts,
and the only thing in the car charger is a fucking resistor!!!
( real SHIT I seen this so many times )
(well 2 if you include the one for the led) ( O really how are they doing the brightness control )
btw, *never* buy these with the battery - it's a slavage job with no protection circuit - even if the label says otherwise. ( are trying hurt someone with this crap)
First of all
Are these worth buying meaning are LED modules any good and do they last
What is the quality of these LED module on a scale of One to Ten one meaning shit and ten meaning very good quality
Second of all
With a good quality battery what is the run time
Third of all
I would not use a shite battery in the first place not using it every day
I would also not use the charging controller that comes with it I have good quality charging controller for this I would just use the connectors on it
9 PC LCD Monitor
6 LCD Flat Screen TV
30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply
10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool
6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs
1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board
25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase
6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply
1 Dell Mother Board
15 Computer Power Supply
1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it *
These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10%
1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later )
2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board
All of these had CAPs POOF
All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps
Re: Directly replacing NiMh cells with Li-Ion cells - bad idea ?
the first one with the teeth is 5/10, the led is so-so for a T6 or clone.
still good output, but others are better.
i was thinking of changing the led before i even got it - maybe to InfraRed.
the second is really good - 9/10.
i would say 10/10 if it had usb and a charge controller in it.
the thing about those lights with the tubular socket, they are very solid construction - real nice.
just let down by the charge cable - i made a new cable that terminates into one of these. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pc...948825580.html
I just bought two kits so I have the power supply cord to charge it
Now I will have to buy some more Panasonic batteries that have protection boards on them
Thanks for sharing this
9 PC LCD Monitor
6 LCD Flat Screen TV
30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply
10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool
6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs
1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board
25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase
6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply
1 Dell Mother Board
15 Computer Power Supply
1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it *
These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10%
1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later )
2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board
All of these had CAPs POOF
All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps
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