LG Flatron L2010P no picture

[retiredcaps]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

Hmm, I have never seen the DT700C before. It is based on the 830 style case/design, but the LCD is 2x bigger.

[tom66]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

My guess is another clone - possibly stolen design or they had a large surplus of big screen LCDs...

[senndogg]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

oh dear, if the big cap didnt kill you, im sure the cheapo multimeter will :p joking, now you have to strip the top of the monitor and search for the upper board.

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

I got my multimeter, now what?

EDIT: Here is a picture of the back after taking the power/mainboard panel off.

[retiredcaps]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

I got my multimeter, now what?

Go back to post #1 and re-read and do all the suggestions already given.

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

I'm not getting a reading on the big capacitor with just the mains hooked up to power (I disconnected the board from everything else).

[budm]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

Check that white ceramic main AC fuse to see if it reads open circuit.

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

You mean the long white fuse near the DC jack (bottom right in the picture)? I tested the continuity and I'm not getting anything.

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

It's a T3.15AH250V fuse which is totally blown. Would replacing it with a 3A250V be fine?

[budm]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

You need to at least check the bridge rectifier to see if it is shorted out before putting in the new fuse. What you can do is to use 75~100 Watts lamp in place of the fuse, you will have to come up with some way to clip on the wires to each fuse holder and connect them to the lamp. When you power up the board and the lamp lights up and stays at full brightness, then you have shorts in the board somewhere such as the bridge rectifier, MOSFET, ETC. If the lamp turns on bright and then dims down, it is probably OK, then you can see if you get any DC on the big cap. I would suggest you to plug this board into GFI outlet since you will be working in the AC primary side.
3A SLO-BLO fuse is OK.

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

I tried to jerry rig something up but wasn't able to light a bulb. I only had a 75watt (130v) flood light. I did check the capacitor afterword and got a reading of 100v so I'm guessing if I had left it plugged in it would have fully charged.

[budm]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

If the bulb lights up bright then you have problem, since you are getting about 100VDC, the bridge is OK, right now you do have some AC voltage drop on the lamp so you are not getting full 120VAC feeding the rectifier. If you check the AC voltage on the lamp, it will probably shows some AC reading.

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

I tested it again immediately after turning the power off and the capacitor does indeed have 150v

[budm]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

So now do you get any DC on the output connectors?

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

So now do you get any DC on the output connectors?

I'm not sure how I would test that? I tested the far left and right pins on the control board connector and got something like 12v. BTW if the big cap is only getting 150v does it mean it's bad or would I need to leave the power on for a couple minutes to let it "charge".

[budm]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

So right now do you get it back to the state where is was as stated in post1 before the main fuse is blown, if you do, then you need to check the voltage on the T-CON board next.

[DPyro]

Re: LG Flatron L2010P no picture

I need to go to the store tomorrow to get a new AC fuse first.