Re: Yet another BGA machine dream
As far as i know, a profile has 4 zones. Preheat, soak, reflow and cooldown. I try to respect the following:
Take the board to 150C using bottom heater only.
Turn on the top heat and bring the chip to the melting point of solder (183 for lead, 217 for lead-free) within 40-50 seconds.
Hold at that temperature for 20-30 seconds.
Ramp up the top heat to peak at 210C for leaded and 230-245 for lead-free, maximum 15 seconds to peak temperature.
Turn off all heat and allow to cool. Also turn on the fan on your station at this point if it has one.
These readings are taken with 2 thermocouples, one right next to the chip and one on top of the die. Temperatures reported by the two TCs should match within 5-10C max.
That's what i've been always using and it works great. Also make sure that you don't keep the chip above 220C for more than 30 seconds total or it's likely to die. At 230C you must be able to remove any lead-free chip.
However, some chips require slight levering with a sharp pair of tweezers to break free from epoxy that's made its way underneath. That's an art in itself..
Note that i don't have "profiles", my hands on the controls make the profiles. And remember that i'm using hot air so YMMV.
As far as i know, a profile has 4 zones. Preheat, soak, reflow and cooldown. I try to respect the following:
Take the board to 150C using bottom heater only.
Turn on the top heat and bring the chip to the melting point of solder (183 for lead, 217 for lead-free) within 40-50 seconds.
Hold at that temperature for 20-30 seconds.
Ramp up the top heat to peak at 210C for leaded and 230-245 for lead-free, maximum 15 seconds to peak temperature.
Turn off all heat and allow to cool. Also turn on the fan on your station at this point if it has one.
These readings are taken with 2 thermocouples, one right next to the chip and one on top of the die. Temperatures reported by the two TCs should match within 5-10C max.
That's what i've been always using and it works great. Also make sure that you don't keep the chip above 220C for more than 30 seconds total or it's likely to die. At 230C you must be able to remove any lead-free chip.
However, some chips require slight levering with a sharp pair of tweezers to break free from epoxy that's made its way underneath. That's an art in itself..
Note that i don't have "profiles", my hands on the controls make the profiles. And remember that i'm using hot air so YMMV.
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