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TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

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    #21
    Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

    So you get the backlights to be on, but do you now see images on the screen?
    Never stop learning
    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

    Inverter testing using old CFL:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

    TV Factory reset codes listing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

    Comment


      #22
      Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

      MM voltage tests in BL connector at power supply:
      VF1:84,4
      VF2:84,4
      VF3:52,9
      VF4:52,9
      FB1:52,9
      FB2:52,9
      FB3:21,5
      FB4:21,5

      Comment


        #23
        Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

        Originally posted by budm View Post
        So you get the backlights to be on, but do you now see images on the screen?
        Nope still nothing, neither with a flashlight test

        Comment


          #24
          Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

          I'm confused. Are your backlights working?
          I assume no responsibility for any stupid suggestions I might post.

          Comment


            #25
            Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

            reading this thread again from post 16 it seems you have lost the backlight and the toshiba logo after re loading the firmware are you 100% sure its the correct firmware for the mainboard and lcd panel used in your tv.

            Comment


              #26
              Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

              My backlights are working I just don't have any kind of picture. I notice that the brightness of the LEDs changes if I press for example the menu button or the tv program switches from dark to vivid images but that's all

              Comment


                #27
                Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                Originally posted by vinceroger69 View Post
                reading this thread again from post 16 it seems you have lost the backlight and the toshiba logo after re loading the firmware are you 100% sure its the correct firmware for the mainboard and lcd panel used in your tv.
                Nono the logo I lost a lot far back before the firmware update. Back then when I was searching for problems in the power board. I just didn't care so much since the TV wasn't working either way.

                Comment


                  #28
                  Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                  have you checked the voltage on both sides of the tcon fuse?

                  Comment


                    #29
                    Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                    Originally posted by Sraros View Post
                    My backlights are working I just don't have any kind of picture. I notice that the brightness of the LEDs changes if I press for example the menu button or the tv program switches from dark to vivid images but that's all
                    Are you saying you can see the ON SCREEN SETTING MENU that shows if the setting is the 'VIVID' mode or what ever but no image of the Video source? I am confused.
                    Never stop learning
                    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                    Inverter testing using old CFL:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                    TV Factory reset codes listing:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                    Comment


                      #30
                      Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                      On post 19 it looks like you found a problem on your panel pcb. A shorted ceramic cap is common problem there and will kill picture
                      I assume no responsibility for any stupid suggestions I might post.

                      Comment


                        #31
                        Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                        Originally posted by dskall View Post
                        On post 19 it looks like you found a problem on your panel pcb. A shorted ceramic cap is common problem there and will kill picture
                        Ok. I can't find the schematic unfortunatelly..

                        Vinceroger did you mean the fuse on the board I posted in #19?

                        What is marked as B1 looks like a fuse to me and it's beeping so looks fine.
                        I think that little green thing is a diode. So 3caps in total are shorted. Is there a way to find their values without the schematics? :/

                        Comment


                          #32
                          Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                          B1 is the Ferrite Bead inductor.
                          F1 (Green device with deisignator F1 printed on the board) is the small SMD fuse to the right of B1.
                          Are you saying C12, C13 are shorted?
                          if C12, or C13 shorted out then it should have blow that green F1 fuse.
                          D9 is the protection Diode.
                          So are you getting 12VDC at both ends of F1 fuse with ref. to chassis GND when TV is turned on?
                          BTW, since in post #1 you did get 'TOSHIBA' showing on the screen, that means the LCD panel was working.
                          Last edited by budm; 05-24-2017, 04:55 PM.
                          Never stop learning
                          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                          Inverter testing using old CFL:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                          TV Factory reset codes listing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                          Comment


                            #33
                            Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                            I see. I pulled out those caps. They are fine, the short is elsewhere and you are right the fuse is blown. I see from your sayings why I thought it was a diode..

                            Comment


                              #34
                              Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                              The short was caused by the AUO IC chip at U209. It's burnt and I can't read it. The panel control board is 39T01-C03. I tried to take from another board the IC which had exact outlook 39T06-C00, but I don't think it's the same afterall.
                              IF somebody has the board 39T01-C03 T390HVN04.0 and could read to me the IC number of position U209 would be great.

                              Comment


                                #35
                                Re: TOSHIBA 39L4333D, powers on, no standby, backlight on, won't shut down

                                A summary of what I have:
                                TV starts without showing anything on screen. Backlights work but I have no image.
                                Sound comes on but after half a minute it goes out. When I press the shut down button on the remote, the sound comes back for 2 seconds before the TV shuts down. Turning it back on the sound does the same. Stays for a bit then goes out. I repeat no image in the meantime, only backlights work.

                                Voltages:
                                12V: 12,20V
                                NC: 12,20V
                                5V: 5V
                                ACD: 3,73V
                                PWR_TV: 0 when off, 3,25V when on
                                BL_ON: 0 when off, 3,33V when on
                                PWM2: 0 off, 0 on
                                PWM1: 0 when off. When turned on it reaches 3,3-3,7V. Then after a minute (about half a minute after the sound goes off) drops slowly to 1,4V. When turning off again the TV climbs up to 2V and then slowly reaches 0 again.

                                Voltages to panel:
                                VF1 VF2: 56V off, 85 on
                                VF3, VF4, FB1, FB2: 28off, 52 on
                                FB3, FB4: 3,6V off, 14,5V (up to 22V after a while) on

                                Then the panel, had a short which now is removed. Replaced the fuse and 12V run as input. I replaced P301-16 with P301-30 1216FW QFN IC AUO GAMMA CORRECTION chip at U209. Voltages going out of the chip appear but don't know how much they should read or maybe the chip is wrong because I took from similar board.

                                Any other suggestions, ideas?
                                Last edited by Sraros; 04-16-2018, 07:17 AM.

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