Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

[kca]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Might it be that I actually have to buy that Factory Remote on Ebay in order to get this done? Seems unlikely, given the fact that fa8 was able to do it without that in the picture just 3 or 4 years ago.

[freakaftr8]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Read here post 211.

It's been a fee years for me but thi k somewhere here you will find the answer.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...477910?page=21

[kca]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

That link to the AVSforum is helpful, and most of its logic led me back to try the Hotel Menu and to turn that setting on. Did that, but it was another dead end.

I'm going to post all the pictures I took tonight of these Factory Menus, and hopefully they will ring a bell.

[kca]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

And, here are a few more, including the last 2 focused on the HOTEL MENU .....

[mmartell]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

I'd think that .zip needs to be unzipped unless explicitly stated somewhere to just change the extension.

[freakaftr8]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Yes indeed. You shouldn't rename the file. The bin file exists within the .zip. use winzip or windows built in unpacker for this. Mac should have one too.

Renaming the zip file will cause an unknown file architecture and the TV will not understand what this file is

[kca]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Hello all ~

Yes, the Zip file was opened automatically and I saw all the files located within. It was the bin file itself that still had an icon with a zipper image, so I was wondering if I needed to somehow unzip that as well for it all to work.

But, here's the latest on the story:

I am pretty confident that the 3D58 file is now installed on the tv. It took me several tries and several steps that were slightly different than any scenario that I read about on the AVSforum, but it was pretty close to what I found there. When I have a bit more time, I will try to reconstruct and delineate what I did to make it work. The key was to get into the EXTENDED service (or, factory) menu ..... and not simply the "regular" service (or, factory) menu. There were a number of new and more detailed options that showed up when I finally managed to get in the EXTENDED menu, and the PDP Panel and USB D/L were two of them.


For now, I want to give a quick report on the degree of success I found in the aftermath of the 3D58 file upgrade via USB.

There was some improvement, but not as much as I was hoping for. Initially, it looked like I had gained quite a bit, but after some time working with it this morning I have realized that I still must have the Vs up pretty high in order to both get rid of the banding and have the white screens be primarily void of the pink hue. Right now, I have the Vs set at 218. Anything less is bothersome to my eye. Again, no banding shows up until I kick it all the way down to 212 or less, but anything less than 218 is too discolored by the overall pink hue that exisits in a more comprehensive way across large portions of the screen. More "blotching than banding".

I was really hoping that the 3D58 file would correct this to the point where I could set the Vs back to 210, or at the least not get up over 215. Not really the case. It is better than before, I believe, but if I really want the vast majority of the pink hue to "disappear", I still have to get it up near 222 - 226. And that's what I am trying to avoid, as I am convinced that will signifcanly shorten whatever life this panel has left.

It does have nearly 12,000 hours on it. 11,967 to be exact. So, I guess I can't expect perfection. Coupled with the fact that Samsung produced a whole line of plasmas back then that were evidently plagued by the tendency to succumb to the pink banding.

Questions I now have:

1) Since I do have two other PS boards, including one that I just bought online which has no apparent damage to it, would it make any difference if I put this "best board" in now to see if it produces more Vs (and less impedance) on its own, thereby allowing me to possibly set the Vs at 210 and just keep it there? I would solder the joints up before doing so, just like I did with the board I repaired. But, I don't want to waste time on this theory if the panel itself is going to behave in the exact same manner. Maybe using the "best board" is the only way to find out for sure?

2) A specific question for fa8 ..... I remember reading on another thread here on Badcaps that you kicked another setting (it was the Vscan, I think) from -200 to -183. How important do you think that move was? Did it really help to get rid of more of the pink? If it is important, I am thinking I could do the same and then maybe kick the Vs down to 215 or even lower. Where, exactly, is that adjustment pot located? I can get close-ups of the X-SUS and Y-SUS boards if that would help.

3) I left the white balance settings all at 25 out of 50. Has anyone had success in tweaking these to further get rid of the pink and, if so, to what settings?

4) Are there any other settings or adjustments I can and should make to help rid the picture of this lingering, and bothersome, pink hue?


I'm a bit disappointed in the overall results of the 3D58 file upgrade. Was hoping to achieve that AHA moment where I could confidently button up the back panel and call it a day. But, i don't think I'm quite there yet.


The attached pic is with the Vs set at 218. As I said, not ideal. Actually, I am even beginning to wonder if the 3D58 file upgrade really "took" and actually was installed. Is there a way to confirm this?

[freakaftr8]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Yes I did toy around with the settings on the y sustain. I found that raising VS in lowering vscan helped the issue also I played around with the drive waveforms. I found a happy medium. The only reason I do not suggest this to others or mention it is because it is very tricky and there's a point where you may not be able to get it back to where it was. You have to take photo pictures in mark the areas of the potentiometers where they used to sit if you do not have access to an oscilloscope. Is a real pain in the ass.

IMHO, Samsung screwed the pooch on this particular series of PDP panels. I'm not sure if they're losing gas or if they are aging too fast but this is a direct result of a panel that is requiring more voltage to operate properly.

What we are doing and essence is similar to back in the day CRT televisions when you had to bump up the heater voltage just to get the oxidation off the guns.

What we are doing in essence is modifying the drive wave forms and drive voltages of the panel to take the original boards and turn them into something that they were not meant to drive as hard

[freakaftr8]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

On a side note, it took about a month of fussing around with small tweaks here and there to achieve what I was looking for before I can confidently say that I could quit the back back on it.

One day it would look great the next day on dark scenes it would look different on white scenes I would still see either banding or maldischarge in areas I was very unhappy about.

None of this I could achieve without installing the 3D58 file. I tried before and I could not succeed. After the file install I could succeed with the adjustments and I had a lot more leg room for movement back-and-forth if that makes any sense

[kca]

Re: Samsung PN58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Thanks, fa8. Yes, that does make sense and all of that knowledge helps me.

The picture actually looks rather great when the white background isn't in play (as most people with this issue are experiencing). I've been watching it for the last couple of hours and am pretty happy with it, overall.

Two quick questions:

1) What do you think would be the maximum Vs setting you would be comfortable putting onto this tv? I was thinking 220, where it looks even better than the 218 I have it set at currently but not so high it's likely to burn out in the next six months or a year. But, I'd like to hear your number. I know you said you had yours at 217 before and as you sold it. If I can safely go to 225, then the problem almost fully goes away.

2) How did you assure yourself that the 3D58 file actually got installed properly? I'm assuming yours took about a minute or so and then the tv shut down automatically and turned back on. As did mine. But, on top of that, did you find any other evidence that it was immediately successful?

In the AVSforum, I found this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by toneman View Post
I then decided to see if I could install the logic firmware file using the German Samsung software remote alluded to above; I don't know if the firmware actually got installed to the logic board--I could see the progress where it said "Upgrading", then I was able to catch for a very brief moment where I think it said "Success"--I say "brief" and "I think" because next thing I knew, my TV power-cycled...so I can only assume and hope that the logic f/w file was installed from the USB drive since I didn't see any error messages about the upgrade attempt failing due to wrong file or whatnot. Speaking of the file itself--because I don't really know for sure if the file got installed...can anyone else here who was able to install the logic file successfully see what Logic SW version and checksum is being reported on their TV? Mine reports SW version 11-11-30 and Checksum 0x1B35.

Yes I can confirm this is what I also see with new software:
logic sw version 11-11-30
logic sw checksum 0x1B35

The original showed:
logic sw version: 10-06-21
logic sw checksum: 0x160c

Furthermore, I can also confirm the panel temperature shown just above the the logic sw version is cooler on the new software.
My original which showed the pink was 41C whilst with new software it shows 39C.

24hrs and still no pink banding with this software.
The panel is as good as new and exceptional. Thank you Samsung.


But, I'm not quite sure how to get to the logic sw version and logic sw checksum data. Does anyone know how?

[freakaftr8]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

The only way I found out it was successful even though I did see the quick blip that said success was a fact that the adjustments now allowed me to Go further more into adjusting the banding out.

Also I noticed immediate change in white background Before & After the install

[kca]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Morning all ~

Well, I've made a lot of progress on this Samsung 58" set, but I can't quite get the remaining pink hue to go away. I've got the Vs all the way up, and that is reading between 218 and 220. Not ideal, but it's the only way the pink is reduced enough to call it near normal.

I tried kicking the Vscan on the YSUS from -200 to -183, like fa8 had done in the past. Unfortunately, that didn't change much. I have not adjusted the Va at all, as I read from tom66 and others that doing so is not likely to help and could even damage the panel beyond repair.

I'm hoping to find another adjustment or two that will eliminate the remainder of the pink hue before I put the back panel on. I've also tried to adjust the White Balance (Red Offset and Red Gain) settings and that helps slightly but you can't go very far with these without throwing off the overall balance between Red, Blue, and Green.

There are a couple of other pot screws on the YSUS (besides the Vscan) but I haven't adjusted those yet because I was afraid they might react the same way a Va alteration could and damage the panel permanently. Are those worth adjusting, and is it safe to do? I'll include a picture of the YSUS in a couple of minutes.

Any other ideas?

The pink hue now shows up only on the left and right sides of the screen, kind of like a halo effect. Still, quite noticeable on any white background screen (commercials, in particular,).

*******

The biggest problem white screen, though, is whenever a person switches channels. The screen goes completely white for about 2-3 seconds, then flashes black for another second, and then finally makes the channel switch complete. On the white screen here, the pink hue is VERY prominent.

Is there a way to eliminate this "channel switch white screen" and have it go to black for the duration of the switch instead? I ask because I have a couple of Hitachi plasma sets from about 2007 and they have always gone to black only when switching channels. I know how to get in the Extended Service Menu now on this Samsung PN58C8000, so if the answer to this question lies inside there I can easily access it.

Thanks in advance for reading and for any replies.

[kca]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Some pics of the YSUS I hope will help.

The Vscan and its corresponding est point are obvious. The test point sits directly below it, and as noted above, I’ve already adjusted it to no great effect. So, I set it back on its original -200 setting.

The other test point I could find is labeled Vsch. It reads -040. I’m not sure which pot it’s connected to, if either of the remaining two, because I decided just now to twist both slightly to figure out which one registered on the multimeter while holding the probe on the Vsch test point and neither pot registered. Strange.

The pot that is farthest to the left on the board has no test point near it, so I don’t know what that one is. Doesn’t appear to be labeled in any way. Although, I suppose its trace could run over to the Vsch test point.

Does anyone have clarity on these locations, and if turning the two that aren’t Vscan is safe to do or not?

[tom66]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Vsch is Vsc+150V

so e.g. -200V Vsc gives you -50V Vsch.

It is the HIGH-buffer voltage drive signal.

Your pictures are too blurry to be usable, try daylight without flash.

[kca]

Re: Samsung P58C8000 ~ Power Supplies have failed (2)

Ahhhh. I see now. The h = high. Thanks for clarifying, Tom.

Should I then try to get this Vsch to reach -50 to make it a mathematical match for the -200 Vsc?

Given the fact that I now have the Vs turned up to about 218 - 220v to get rid of most of the pink, is the Vsch now better off at -50 or should I leave it at -40 and bring the Vsc down from -200 to -190?

Sorry about the blurry pics today. Was in a bit of a hurry this morning.

~ kca