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#1 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2010
City & State: Stratford, Ontario
My Country: Canada
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
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![]() I have two boards, one ASUS and one Intel, that run too hot. The Intel board gets core temps of 71C just doing regular browsing. I changed the resolution to 1024x768 just to see if it would lower the temps which it did - to 68C. Fan runs about 1500 RPM, which seems slow. Should say these are Core 2 E4400 CPUs.
The ASUS board will get to 80C at which time it locks up and I power down. I checked the heatsink mounting pins and all seems OK. I'm running Linux Mint. Has anyone tried running Speedfan under Wine? Can't find a SpeedFan download. I did download fancontrol (linux app) but it's not GUI. Anyone have any ideas? |
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#2 |
HC Overclocker
Join Date: Jul 2012
City & State: Singapore
My Country: Singapore
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![]() for temperature monitoring in linux, u have to use psensor and xsensors which are gui programs but they use the commandline program, lm-sensor to get their data which is what u need to install and initialise first. type this in the terminal
Code:
sudo apt-get install lm-sensor psensor xsensors Code:
sudo sensors-detect Code:
sudo service kmod restart Code:
sudo service module-init-tools restart psensor has graphing ablity so u can check the sensor history but it doesnt read voltages. xsensors can read voltages but it doesnt have graphing ability or keep a log of the sensors history. also try going into the motherboard bios and disable cpu smart fan control or some such, see if it helps. to help solve the temperature issue, we need to know more about your setup and what u are using. what heatsink are u using? stock intel hsf? |
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#3 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
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![]() Knowing is one thing, doing something about it is something else...
usually if it's getting too hot, there's some sort of cooling problem. I have to clean the dust out of my heatsink/fans frequently. Else it's what it is, my Core2 Duo E6700 die temp idles around 59°C, and can readily get it up into the 70s. No crash problems however... Does BIOS have fan speed control? If it does and it can't get the RPMs up you may need to look at cleaning/replacing. My Core2Quad is a bit cooler, idles close to room temperature, but it's a different chip rev., and fan is only like 1000RPM. |
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#4 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2010
City & State: Stratford, Ontario
My Country: Canada
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![]() The motherboard is a DQ965GF, Intel support has ended. I'm surprised it doesn't run cooler than the Netburst CPU it replaced. The Heatsink is the copper cored full-size type that was used on the Netburst CPUs so should be sufficient. So perhaps it's just defaulting the fan speed to the lowest speed and that's not enough.
This board has the large finned heatsink on the ICH - temps on this is hot, but nowhere near the max of 111C. ***OOPS! I just found the Intel CPU support docs and YES - E4400 is supported. Everything is clean, no dust problems. I'm thinking that if I can persuade the fan to run a little faster it might cool thins down a bit. I'm also running an ATI passive cooled video card. This runs hot as suggested by the label warning to avoid touching the heatsink. I'm going to remove the ASUS board from it's case to check the heatsink has not come loose. It's one of those "Lan Party" cases with a carrying handle on top. It's a P5 series motherboard so it should handle the E4400, but it looks to have the low-profile Intel heatsink so it may need a bigger one. Sorry for the delay in responding. Hope this helps. Thanks for all suggestions. Last edited by bigbeark; 01-13-2020 at 03:25 PM.. |
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#5 |
HC Overclocker
Join Date: Jul 2012
City & State: Singapore
My Country: Singapore
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![]() all core 2 duo cpus have a tdp of 65w so it shouldnt be running hot at all, so something is wrong. try to disable cpu smart fan control in the bios like i said. if u cant, use a safety pin and remove the blue wire from the cpu 4-pin pwm fan plug. that would force the fan to spin at full speed.
also make sure the casing fan orientation of your chassis is correct. the optimal case fan orientation as stated on xtremesystems is all intake and only one exhaust. |
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#6 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,394
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![]() Quote:
1) Clean the surfaces of the IHS as well as the heatsink with IPA, and apply fresh TIM on both surfaces (plain white goop is fine). I lowered the idle die temp reported by BIOS on an i5-2320 from ~99c to ~70c just by ensuring clean surfaces with a thin layer of TIM. 2) Check the HSF sits flat against the IHS. If even a single nylon peg isn't seated correctly, the contact will be poor (this is one of the main deficiencies in the design of the 4-point Intel HSF, as compared to the 2-point AMD clip - the latter pretty much ensures good contact all the time, and is also more reliable). 3) The board may have E4400 support, but may still need microcode updates to ensure that VID, fan and sensor calibration are correct for all supported S-specs. Check that the BIOS is up to date for the specific proccy. If everything is OK, the E4400 should idle in the low-40s (maybe lower in temperate climates). |
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#7 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2010
City & State: Stratford, Ontario
My Country: Canada
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![]() The solution proved to be simple. I swapped out the passive-cooled video card for another ATI card which is fan cooled.
I can now play youtube video on my 24-inch monitor and the the core temps are 58C. Idle temp is 49C. I guess that really hot passive heat sink was too close to the ICH and the two of them produced an ambient temp around the CPU that the fan could not clear. Or possibly the passive video card was defective in some way, The temp on the new fan-cooled video card is 50C according to XSensors . I'' have to tear down the other pne in the LanParty case and see what's going on there. |
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#8 | |||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 9,996
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![]() Quote:
So more than likely (at least without knowing more details about the old and new GPUs), the new video card has video hardware acceleration that the old one perhaps didn't, and this is helping the CPU stay cool, as the GPU is doing the work instead of the CPU. Run a OCCT stress-test on the CPU, and I bet you will see your temps skyrocket again. If that's the case, you haven't really eliminated the problem. The only other thing I can think of is perhaps is whatever software you were using to read your CPU temps was actually picking up the temps on the old passive video card. On that note, I'm curious what your old passive card is. Radeon HD4350/4550/5450?? Or something else?? Either way, best trick with passively-cooled video cards is to take an 80 mm fan, mount it so that it is close to the video card and directing airflow towards it, then run it on 5V. This will ensure the 80 mm fan is quiet. Yet even with this little airflow, you will likely see your GPU temps drop by at least 20C, if not more. Quote:
Those low-profile coolers are marginal at best for the 60-odd Watts that most C2D CPUs put out. E4400 is also pretty old line of C2D, and I believe the older ones didn't have the heatspreader soldered/epoxied to the die, so they always ran hot with low-profile coolers. Quote:
![]() The Intel push-pin design is absolutely moronic. It warps the shit out of most motherboards and indeed often has problems with the heatsink not sitting flush on the CPU, thanks to uneven pressure from the push pins. Otherwise, the stock Intel heatsinks themselves - at least the aluminum part - are not that terrible. In fact, I do like the full height ones quite a bit. As I don't like to waste things, I often "mod" these Intel push-pin heatsinks by getting rid of the push pins and mounting the heatsink with nuts and bolts to the board (or screws and wooden "thumb" nuts). To ensure proper balancing, I use springs to keep pressure on the heatsink. And to prevent board warping under the CPU, I always install a back plate (either make my own or re-purpose from another cooler.) Last edited by momaka; 01-17-2020 at 10:05 PM.. |
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#9 |
Computer Geek
Join Date: Jan 2015
City & State: Nowhereland, Texas
My Country: USA
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Posts: 1,695
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![]() Easy fix.
1) Sell Intel board and CPU 2) Buy used AMD board and budget Ryzen CPU 3) Install components 4) Enjoy
__________________
Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them. ![]() For computer parts, go to Newegg OR Amazon. For electrical stuff(pushbuttons, capacitors, etc), use Digikey OR Mouser. My computer doubles as a space heater. Windows 10? Only if you like forced, buggy updates and 24/7 telemetry. Samsung = Seagate = Seatrash = Trashgate Don't buy Seagate drives. Don't use Seagate drives. If you have any in service right now, make plans to replace them ASAP. SMR = Slow Magnetic Recording Avoid SMR, buy CMR drives instead. SMR is easily a 15+ year step BACKWARDS in HDD speed. |
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#10 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 23,704
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![]() put a fan on the ICH heatsink if you want it stable - i have to do that on 2 of those chipset types.
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#11 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 9,996
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![]() Quote:
But I do fully support your idea of adding a fan on the NB heatsink and in fact do it myself all the time, as most Intel chipsets tend to run very hot. Usually, I just install a 40 or 50 mm fan and run it on 5-7V, where it is barely moving any air. But even with that, the drop in temperatures are dramatic. |
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