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    Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

    So I've recently got a dead nJoy 500W PSU. ERL39 transformer (real),2SC3220 transistors, sleeved cables and pretty thick heatsinks, all nice stuff (except caps which are ChengX but that's not the point for now). It even has a pretty beefy bridge rectifer. (although no heatsink on it)

    It came to me with two bad Fhy 1000uF 200V caps. I replaced them with some 680uF 200V caps and bypassed the PFC connector, and temporarily replaced the glass fuse with a 100W lightbulb.

    On powering on, I only get a flash of the light bulb and a quick click (about a split second) and no fan movement or nothing.

    Is there anything I should remove? I have a feeling I haven't fully disabled the PFC circuitry.

    I really wish to fix this PSU since it's pretty much full of parts. Of course, after fixing it (means when it will finally power on fine and voltages will be within range) it will probably get back some new 1000uF 200V caps (hope I can snatch some Pannies or Rubies for it to go with the black PCB) and a nice recap on the whole secondary.

    Oh, and it has dual rails, and I'm not even kidding. The PCB literally has two separate 12v spots where the wires go.
    Main rig:
    Gigabyte B75M-D3H
    Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
    Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
    16GB DDR3-1600
    Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
    FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
    120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
    Delux MG760 case

    #2
    Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

    PPFC is basically just filtering the input a bit, I'd think it's a lot more reliable than APFC which would be harder to bypass/rebuild especially if it would need a tripler or something to get the voltage needed for the next stage.

    Not sure why one would want to remove PPFC?

    At least if the light bulb isn't solid on, you don't have a short... does it work? I'd imagine the 5VSB should work with the light bulb in that position?

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

      Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
      PPFC is basically just filtering the input a bit, I'd think it's a lot more reliable than APFC which would be harder to bypass/rebuild especially if it would need a tripler or something to get the voltage needed for the next stage.

      Not sure why one would want to remove PPFC?

      At least if the light bulb isn't solid on, you don't have a short... does it work? I'd imagine the 5VSB should work with the light bulb in that position?
      No voltages come up, just a click from the primary heatsink. The bulb does flash once though. Same behaviour if I short the green wire to GND.

      I want to remove the PPFC because I installed it in a PSU shell that doesn't have the space to screw in the PFC.
      Main rig:
      Gigabyte B75M-D3H
      Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
      Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
      16GB DDR3-1600
      Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
      FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
      120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
      Delux MG760 case

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

        Well if the bulb lights temporarily, it's charging the primary caps and likely you didn't cause an open circuit while removing ppfc.

        Now you just have to go through regular debugging starting with whether 5vsb is working? then you can go and see if the controller ic is good for starting up...

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

          I'll put up the multimeter and check.

          Although I have a feeling 5vSB is not working even though the caps aren't bulged (ChengX tho, going to replace them) they may have failed.

          I also have found some pics of a non-PFC variant and will see what components will need removing in case I didn't fully disable the PFC circuit.
          Main rig:
          Gigabyte B75M-D3H
          Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
          Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
          16GB DDR3-1600
          Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
          FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
          120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
          Delux MG760 case

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

            Okay, some updates:

            1. The switchers weren't 2SC3220 but 2SC3320.
            2. Both switchers were kaput - at least one of them had a huge burn mark on it.
            3. 5vSB did come up even with the bad 3320s, strange enough, at 5.21V.
            4. I'm not sure but there might be a bigger short somewhere or I must've screwed up somewhere, because after replacing the bad 3320s with a pair of 2SC4106s, the PSU would click and the lightbulb would constantly flash. A few seconds later smoke came out of one of the 4106 (interestingly the same one near the main transformer, just like the 2SC3320 that had a burn mark) and I quickly turned off the PSU.

            Any ideas what could be wrong with it? I'm ready to give up on this as I've replaced a whole lot of stuff.
            Main rig:
            Gigabyte B75M-D3H
            Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
            Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
            16GB DDR3-1600
            Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
            FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
            120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
            Delux MG760 case

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

              5VSB has its own switcher, so the main switchers don't need to be working for 5VSB to be up.

              hmm. Wonder if the main controller chip died after the small caps blew up. Not sure...

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

                If you have a bipolar transistor for the main 5VSB switch then the main controller chip is going to be on the secondary and have absolutely nothing to do with the 5VSB. The standby supply is what turns the main controller chip on. I am 95% sure you have the classic two transistor switch circuit for 5VSB, check out some ATX power supply schematics on the internet and you should find a pretty good match for your circuit, which will help you troubleshoot it.
                Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                A working TV? How boring!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

                  Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                  5VSB has its own switcher, so the main switchers don't need to be working for 5VSB to be up.

                  hmm. Wonder if the main controller chip died after the small caps blew up. Not sure...
                  Main chip is a KA7500 and doesn't look burnt.

                  And for the record, it wasn't the small caps that blew, but the big 1000uF 200V caps that blew.
                  Main rig:
                  Gigabyte B75M-D3H
                  Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
                  Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
                  16GB DDR3-1600
                  Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
                  FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
                  120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
                  Delux MG760 case

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Removing PFC from PPFC PSU?

                    Well, I finally fixed it.

                    Seems that somehow the standby switcher was bad too. I replaced the 2SC4106s with another pair of 13007s (temporarily, I plan to get some new 3320s soon) and the IRF3N80 with a BU3150AF from a old iMicro PSU and it came to life. Also main caps were already replaced with Ricon 680uF 200v caps I had from another PSU. Not going to replace these since I don't have bigger replacements and they work fine for me.

                    I replaced the casing with one from a RPC 500LBL PWPS-050000L-BE01A (no joke, that's the model number). Rectifiers are 30A for both 5v and 3.3v and 12v has two 16A rectifiers in parallel. (it originally had 2 shorted 20A rectifiers.)
                    Main rig:
                    Gigabyte B75M-D3H
                    Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
                    Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
                    16GB DDR3-1600
                    Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
                    FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
                    120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
                    Delux MG760 case

                    Comment

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