2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

[notch8]

Hi all, just got this last week for free, original owner just said NOT WORKING.
TV looks like new, remote even looks new. These are my results after reading/testing for 5 days:
No led, ever
No relay clicks, ever. All the fuses have continuity.
By the guide, slide 33, I should replace the A board however I'm not convinced
See attached pics, slides 24 & 25
I've got STBY 4.94V @ P6Pin6, A6Pin6 & P34
IMHO I need to get power to P6 Pin5 to close switch in IC5000 to supply power
to A1 Pin3 to K1 Pin3 to LED, as per slides 24/25.
Also, what does VCC mean? Slide 25 refers to the blue box on the P board as
IC701 MCU. I can't find that on my P board. There's a Z701 chip near P34.
I know this is probably an A board issue but I'm not ready to make that my final answer. If someone, TW2005 orTOM66, can shed some light on this problem I'd really appreciate it, thanks in advance, great site!

[Andrew F. Ali]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

If you hear no 'clicks' when you plug-in and try to turn on then that would indicate a bad PSU or P-Bd. Disconnect the Vs connector (it may be P2) that goes to the V-Sus or SC Bd. Try to power on again and see if there are any clicks? No clicks mean bad PSU or P Bd.
If you post clear focused pics of the underside of the PSU so I can identify the Connector pins and their labels, I may be able to advise you on doing a self-test.

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

If you hear no 'clicks' when you plug-in and try to turn on then that would indicate a bad PSU or P-Bd. Disconnect the Vs connector (it may be P2) that goes to the V-Sus or SC Bd. Try to power on again and see if there are any clicks? No clicks mean bad PSU or P Bd.
If you post clear focused pics of the underside of the PSU so I can identify the Connector pins and their labels, I may be able to advise you on doing a self-test.

Thanks Andrew for the reply! I should have clarified, I have no relay clicks period. Using the tv on/off button or remote...nothing. Remote has good batteries, I checked. Already disconnected p2 to SC Bd & p11 to SS Bd, plugged power back up...no change, nothing, no clicks. Question: Is PSU and P-Bd the same thing? I hope so or I'm lost. I took some good pics of the topside connectors, which I'll post. Do you want pics from underside the board, the green side where all the solder lives? Again, thanks.

[R_J]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

I thought of checking R104, but it must be ok if you have standby voltage. Have you checked all the fuses on the power supply board?

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

I thought of checking R104, but it must be ok if you have standby voltage. Have you checked all the fuses on the power supply board?

Thanks RJ
All fuses, F101, F102, F201, F301, F401 all check good for continuity. F401, the white ceramic part of the fuse is not as white as the rest. The rest look brand new, 401 is just a little very light grey but continuity checks good...0.00 ohms.
I'll look for and check R104, thanks.

[R_J]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

R 104 is the white ceramic resistor near the relays, But like I said it is likely ok. F401 is the fuse for the standby voltage, since standby is on 24/7 the fuse may be slightly discolored, nothing to be concered about
It is possible the main (A) board has a problem and not providing the power on comand

[Andrew F. Ali]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Yes the PSU (Power Supply Unit) and the P-Bd. are the same. (Sorry if I confused you).
OK. So to self-test the P-Bd. you need to make a test-lamp to act as a load for the P-Bd. by taking two (2) 60-100W 120Vac incandescent household bulbs and connect them in series. You would also need three (3) 100ohm resistors.
1. Disconnect all connectors from the P-Bd, leaving the P9-ac connector.
2. On connector P6 connect solder one end of a 100ohm resistor across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 7: F-Stby-ON.
3. Take a 2nd 100ohm resistor and connect it across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 1: Panel-Main-ON.
4. Take a 3rd 100ohm resistor and connect it across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 5: StBy5V-ON.
5. On connector P2, connect your test-lamp across pin 1: Vsus and pin 2: GND.
6. Re-examine your connections to verify they are secure and clean, not shorting on anything or touching anything it is not supposed to touch.
7. Plug in the ac.
If the P-Bd. is good the test-lamp should come on and light bright. Test P35 for Vda and the other pins on P6 for 15V etc.
If test-lamp does not come on and you are sure everything is connected and isolated as described then the PSU is dead.

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

R 104 is the white ceramic resistor near the relays, But like I said it is likely ok. F401 is the fuse for the standby voltage, since standby is on 24/7 the fuse may be slightly discolored, nothing to be concered about
It is possible the main (A) board has a problem and not providing the power on comand

Checking r104: see pic, the end with 2 pins (we'll call a& b and the other end c)
testing: a-b =10 ohms, a-c=0 ohms, b-c=10 ohms. Does this sound right? Is the resistor ok or bad? It looks new, no discoloration, thanks.

[Andrew F. Ali]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

10ohms so that is good. What 3rd pin are you speaking about? I can only see tw0 (@) pins as any normal resistor would have.

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Yes the PSU (Power Supply Unit) and the P-Bd. are the same. (Sorry if I confused you).
OK. So to self-test the P-Bd. you need to make a test-lamp to act as a load for the P-Bd. by taking two (2) 60-100W 120Vac incandescent household bulbs and connect them in series. You would also need three (3) 100ohm resistors.
1. Disconnect all connectors from the P-Bd, leaving the P9-ac connector.
2. On connector P6 connect solder one end of a 100ohm resistor across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 7: F-Stby-ON.
3. Take a 2nd 100ohm resistor and connect it across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 1: Panel-Main-ON.
4. Take a 3rd 100ohm resistor and connect it across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 5: StBy5V-ON.
5. On connector P2, connect your test-lamp across pin 1: Vsus and pin 2: GND.
6. Re-examine your connections to verify they are secure and clean, not shorting on anything or touching anything it is not supposed to touch.
7. Plug in the ac.
If the P-Bd. is good the test-lamp should come on and light bright. Test P35 for Vda and the other pins on P6 for 15V etc.
If test-lamp does not come on and you are sure everything is connected and isolated as described then the PSU is dead.

Andrew....THANK YOU for all of this info/help. I'll get to work on it asap and report back. I'll have to scrounge up the parts. This tv is way too nice to give up on, fingers crossed.

[Andrew F. Ali]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Mind you, I think your P-Bd. is bad. No clicks.

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

10ohms so that is good. What 3rd pin are you speaking about? I can only see tw0 (@) pins as any normal resistor would have.

Here are some more pics, I see 3 pins, IDK, I'm a noobie on electronics, maybe you can straighten me out, thanks!

[Andrew F. Ali]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Ahh, I see!!...The third pin is not connected to anything and is just an anchor pin to hold the resistor down on the PCB. So you were right 3 pins.

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Mind you, I think your P-Bd. is bad. No clicks.

Is there no way to find the failed component/components and repair? Is a new P board the only answer?

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Ahh, I see!!...The third pin is not connected to anything and is just an anchor pin to hold the resistor down on the PCB. So you were right 3 pins.

I thought as much also but unsure, thanks.

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Yes the PSU (Power Supply Unit) and the P-Bd. are the same. (Sorry if I confused you).
OK. So to self-test the P-Bd. you need to make a test-lamp to act as a load for the P-Bd. by taking two (2) 60-100W 120Vac incandescent household bulbs and connect them in series. You would also need three (3) 100ohm resistors.
1. Disconnect all connectors from the P-Bd, leaving the P9-ac connector.
2. On connector P6 connect solder one end of a 100ohm resistor across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 7: F-Stby-ON.
3. Take a 2nd 100ohm resistor and connect it across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 1: Panel-Main-ON.
4. Take a 3rd 100ohm resistor and connect it across pin 6: StBy5V and pin 5: StBy5V-ON.
5. On connector P2, connect your test-lamp across pin 1: Vsus and pin 2: GND.
6. Re-examine your connections to verify they are secure and clean, not shorting on anything or touching anything it is not supposed to touch.
7. Plug in the ac.
If the P-Bd. is good the test-lamp should come on and light bright. Test P35 for Vda and the other pins on P6 for 15V etc.
If test-lamp does not come on and you are sure everything is connected and isolated as described then the PSU is dead.

Did the self test today, hooray, relays clicked , light bulbs lit, checked and had 12vdc on P6 pins 10 11 13 and 15. I'm not sure which pin to check on p35 for Vda and what voltages to expect. Thanks

[Andrew F. Ali]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Right so the P-Bd is OK. To measure Vda on P35 look at the connector cables and see which two are used. I can't remember off-hand. If no measure across pin 1-GND and pin 4-Vda. May be around 55~60V. Look at the Panel sticker or on the back cover for a voltage table. Good job with the testing. Let me know what you get with Vda. We have more testing to do, but I suspect the A-Bd though.

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

Right so the P-Bd is OK. To measure Vda on P35 look at the connector cables and see which two are used. I can't remember off-hand. If no measure across pin 1-GND and pin 4-Vda. May be around 55~60V. Look at the Panel sticker or on the back cover for a voltage table. Good job with the testing. Let me know what you get with Vda. We have more testing to do, but I suspect the A-Bd though.

Thanks for the likes on the testing but I don't deserve it. While checking for 15vdc on the connector side of P6 (dumb on my part) I bumped my big probes together and burned #10 pin into. Spent half the afternoon replacing it with a spare. Thank goodness for spares. The repair came out good. Anyway, while I was at it I reflowed Z701 & P34. I put the board back in the tv, plugged it in no change, still dead. 4.94v @ P6 a6 & P34. I'm posting a pic of P35, 1 is Vda and 4 is GND. Can I do the test with the board hooked up in the tv like it is now or do I have to reconnect resistors, lights again? I suspect A board failure also. I think IC 5000 is bad, thanks, Roger

[notch8]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

I still feel like A board fault is problem, IC 5000. Even if I replace IC or the A board, if there's a fault on down the line, the new part will fail also and I'll be right back where I started. Starting to feel overwhelmed, especially after reading this 2013 post of a similar problem plus the flowchart advice, see pics. I'd like to be able to fix this tv but new ones are getting cheaper everyday so I can't justify putting much into it.

[Andrew F. Ali]

Re: 2011 Panasonic TC-P50S30 IS DEAD

The A-Bd sends out the TV-SUB-ON signal to the P-Bd to generate the F15V which causes the relays to 'click' and the 15V goes to the A-Bd. to produce SUB5V, SUB1.8V and SUB1.2V to power various circuits in the A-Bd. So as long as the TV-SUB-ON signal does not go to the P-Bd. the set will be dead. Again this points to an A-Bd. problem and as you said it may be easier to just look for a replacement board rather than try to replce the IC on the A-Bd that generate the TV-SUB-ON signal.