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Old 02-27-2016, 06:33 AM   #1
The_Killer53
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Default Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Hey everyone, in a nutshell I have an Xbox 360 that isn't working. I didn't buy the console so I don't know what model it is etc... I do, however, know that it has a Xenon motherboard after following a YouTube video that helped me identify it.

When I cracked open the case I found the motherboard missing around 20 main capacitors and I would love some help in identify what I should replace them with. I only have the cXXX code that is printed on the motherboard where the capacitors should be.

If anyone could tell me what type of capacitor I need for the following I would be very grateful:
- C5B4
- C5B2
- C5B7
- C6B3
- C7B3
- C6C2
- C6C3
- C7C1
- C7C2
- C8C1
- C8D1
- C8D4
- C8E3
- C8E8
- C8F1
- C8F2
- C8F3
- C7F1
- C7F2
- C6F3

Thanks again, and sorry for so many caps :P
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Old 02-27-2016, 06:52 AM   #2
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

you may find the values in this scematic
http://www.slideshare.net/AngelArita1/diagramaxbox360
Failing that when im back at home monday/tuesday i will look and see if i have that mother board in the 3 xboxes i have.

Last edited by vinceroger69; 02-27-2016 at 06:56 AM..
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:03 AM   #3
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinceroger69 View Post
you may find the values in this scematic
http://www.slideshare.net/AngelArita1/diagramaxbox360
Failing that when im back at home monday/tuesday i will look and see if i have that mother board in the 3 xboxes i have.
Hey Thanks for the prompt reply. I will have a quick read through that schematic you sent me but if I don't find anything then I'd be very grateful for you looking at your old motherboards.

Thanks again.
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:11 PM   #4
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

you should ask yourself why they are removed.
it's probably got a dead or shorted gpu or worse.
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:38 AM   #5
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stj View Post
you should ask yourself why they are removed.
it's probably got a dead or shorted gpu or worse.
Hey, fair point but I'd just like to know whether I do have the Capacitors missing

Thanks
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:31 AM   #6
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Killer53 View Post
Hey, fair point but I'd just like to know whether I do have the Capacitors missing

Thanks
Hi sorry its taking time ive had two 360s arrive so far both are hdmi models i have one coming tomorrow which is the basic non hdmi model hopefully its the same as yours i will update the post when i receive it.
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:27 PM   #7
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinceroger69 View Post
Hi sorry its taking time ive had two 360s arrive so far both are hdmi models i have one coming tomorrow which is the basic non hdmi model hopefully its the same as yours i will update the post when i receive it.
Thanks
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:53 PM   #8
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

sorry the xbox arrived when i wasnt in its being re delivered tomorrow just hope its the xenon board i will update asap.
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:26 PM   #9
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

I sectioned these for you, so you can understand what each cap does

Stand-by 1.8V rail (generated from 3.3V stand-by)
- C5B4 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)

Stand-by 3.3V rail (generated from 5VSB)
- C5B2 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)

5VSB rail from PSU
- C5B7 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)

12V rail from PSU (GPU VRM high side)
- C6B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

GPU V_core rail (GPU VRM low side)
- C6C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6C3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

CPU V_core rail (CPU VRM low side)
- C8C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D4 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E8 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

5V rail (generated from PSU 12V rail) for USB controllers and front ports, if I remember correctly
- C7F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

12V rail from PSU (5V rail VRM high side)
- C7F2 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6F3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

Worth noting is that if you have other dead 360 boards, you can use these caps interchangeably:

Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF <--> Rubycon MFZ 6.3 V, 2700 uF <--> Fujitsu FPCAP RE 4 V, 820 uF (the yellow ones)

Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Rubycon MCZ 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Panasonic FL 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Sanyo WF 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Chemicon KZJ 16 V, 1500 uF
(I personally wouldn't recommend using the last two, as they are somewhat unreliable series)

Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF <--> Rubycon YXA 16 V, 100 uF <--> Chemicon KMG 16 V, 100 uF <--> Panasonic NHG 16 V, 100 uF

Let me know if you need any other help with these. I have these boards for scrap (already pulled the caps) and can get most component value measurements for you.

As stj noted, there might be a reason why the caps were pulled from your board (probably unrepairable). I've seen quite a few 360's develop bad RAM. Not worth the effort changing it, IMO. But it could be that GPU just needs a reflow. Or, if you are very lucky, a shorted MOSFET on GPU or CPU VRM - but I've seen only one or two cases of that (used to work/help in a console repair shop). Most common problems are GPU BGA issues, DVD drive laser or stuck door, and overheating RAM chips (which is not easily repairable).

Last edited by momaka; 03-04-2016 at 08:34 PM..
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Old 03-05-2016, 04:00 AM   #10
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by momaka View Post
I sectioned these for you, so you can understand what each cap does

Stand-by 1.8V rail (generated from 3.3V stand-by)
- C5B4 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)

Stand-by 3.3V rail (generated from 5VSB)
- C5B2 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)

5VSB rail from PSU
- C5B7 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)

12V rail from PSU (GPU VRM high side)
- C6B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

GPU V_core rail (GPU VRM low side)
- C6C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6C3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

CPU V_core rail (CPU VRM low side)
- C8C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D4 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E8 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

5V rail (generated from PSU 12V rail) for USB controllers and front ports, if I remember correctly
- C7F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

12V rail from PSU (5V rail VRM high side)
- C7F2 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6F3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)

Worth noting is that if you have other dead 360 boards, you can use these caps interchangeably:

Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF <--> Rubycon MFZ 6.3 V, 2700 uF <--> Fujitsu FPCAP RE 4 V, 820 uF (the yellow ones)

Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Rubycon MCZ 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Panasonic FL 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Sanyo WF 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Chemicon KZJ 16 V, 1500 uF
(I personally wouldn't recommend using the last two, as they are somewhat unreliable series)

Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF <--> Rubycon YXA 16 V, 100 uF <--> Chemicon KMG 16 V, 100 uF <--> Panasonic NHG 16 V, 100 uF

Let me know if you need any other help with these. I have these boards for scrap (already pulled the caps) and can get most component value measurements for you.

As stj noted, there might be a reason why the caps were pulled from your board (probably unrepairable). I've seen quite a few 360's develop bad RAM. Not worth the effort changing it, IMO. But it could be that GPU just needs a reflow. Or, if you are very lucky, a shorted MOSFET on GPU or CPU VRM - but I've seen only one or two cases of that (used to work/help in a console repair shop). Most common problems are GPU BGA issues, DVD drive laser or stuck door, and overheating RAM chips (which is not easily repairable).
Thank you very much I do agree with you that there are probably more issues with the board, however I have the parts you have listed so I might as well try see what the problem is whether it is GPU or RAM.

- Thanks again, that's a real help
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:01 AM   #11
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

sorry The_Killer53 about late reply i did manage too pick the xbox up yesterday just didnt have time too open it up and look inside etc, (had job interview etc then visitors turned up) but later today i will test mine and see what the issue is with it im glad momaka posted the values you needed etc as you can get on with installing the capacitors and testing and momaka sounds like hes worked on a few of these so maybe he can help us both out with our repairs. If you need to know anything else regarding the motherboard whilst my xbox is open just ask.
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:03 AM   #12
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinceroger69 View Post
sorry The_Killer53 about late reply i did manage too pick the xbox up yesterday just didnt have time too open it up and look inside etc, (had job interview etc then visitors turned up) but later today i will test mine and see what the issue is with it im glad momaka posted the values you needed etc as you can get on with installing the capacitors and testing and momaka sounds like hes worked on a few of these so maybe he can help us both out with our repairs. If you need to know anything else regarding the motherboard whilst my xbox is open just ask.
Hey, Thanks for all the help I will ask if I need anything else and will keep you posted on my progress with the board
I do appreciate all the help,

- Thanks again
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:50 AM   #13
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Well ive just opened the xbox 360 up a few of the plastic side clips are broke of (i have spare side cover) i can see why it has the 3 red lights now and secondary code 0102 no wonder the xbox failed look at the dust in the enclosed pictures i think i may try a reflow on this board.

just saw this thread
Originally Posted by Mad_Professor View Post
That is not the proper way to reflow your 360.

Real reason for RROD and YLOD is not overheating but it is part of the problem. The heat/cool cycles cause micro-fractures in the solder balls used to surface mount the chips and components.

The best way to do this is to get a heatgun either 2.5A 500*F 5A 700* 10A 1000*F I prefer the 10amp heatgun. Strip the 360 down to bare board and remove it from the case. Clean the thermal paste off the cpu and gpu, use 91% alcohol, acetone*be careful with this stuff* or mineral spirits<--preferred.

Then use the heatgun to preheat the board for 2 minutes, and keep the gun about 4-8 inches in distance and moving. Flip to the other side every 3 passes and don't stay in one place otherwise you'll melt the components on the board. I recommend mounting the board in a vice that way it's easier to use both hands to flip to each side.

Once the board is preheated, it time to focus on the CPU and GPU and move back and forth between the two for 10 minutes. During this time you'll want to add flux around the chips, try to inject some if you can, if you don't have any then don't worry about it, I've had success without flux.
It is essential to not bump or be careless with the board, you can easily dislodge components when the solder is near liquid state.

After 10 minutes let the board hang out for an hour to cool this is essential, if you don't do this you're risking premature failure.

Once you do that you can go ahead and put it back together. Use some good quality thermal paste, Arctic silver 5 is the best, industrial thermal compound works too.

TEST IT!

If it works, awesome, if it doesn't, chuck it!

If it does work.
You'll want to either replace the cooling fan with one that has high CFM Flow or have a way to control it so you can bump it up higher then the idle speed or have a fixed speed so the 360 never gets hot again. A warm or dull warm xbox or PS3 is preferred, and FUCK NOISE! Either keep it cool and deal with loudness of the fan or buy a new 360.
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Last edited by vinceroger69; 03-05-2016 at 08:08 AM..
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Old 03-05-2016, 09:51 AM   #14
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinceroger69 View Post
and momaka sounds like hes worked on a few of these so maybe he can help us both out with our repairs.
Yes sir.
It's been a few years now since I worked on one, so I am a bit rusty with what the secondary codes meant, but I don't mind helping you either way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Killer53
I will ask if I need anything else and will keep you posted on my progress with the board
Yes, please do. We like it when a thread reaches conclusive results

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinceroger69
i can see why it has the 3 red lights now and secondary code 0102 no wonder the xbox failed look at the dust in the enclosed pictures i think i may try a reflow on this board.
Yeah, probably just needs a GPU reflow. The CPU BGA rarely fails (even though yours has all of that dust on its heatsink).

Also, when testing these boards, I highly recommend you have the PSU nearby so that you can see its indicator light. Normally, it is yellow when the Xbox 360 is OFF. But after you power ON the Xbox 360, if the light on the PSU flashes Red or goes back to solid Yellow (after flashing Green for a quick moment), then you likely have a short-circuit somewhere (usually GPU chip itself, GPU BGA, or RAM chips). Occasionally, you may also hear a slight buzzing sound coming from the MOSFETs near GPU - this is also a good indicator of a short-circuit in GPU, GPU BGA, and RAM.

If I remember correctly, 0102 may also cause MOSFETs Q2G1 and Q3F1 near the RAM chips to overheat (as well as coil L2F1). This is a sign that there is a short-circuit in either GPU, GPU BGA, or RAM. The PSU will not detect this short-circuit and its light will continue to be Green. Therefore, I always check those two MOSFETs to see if they are overheating. Just put your finger on them - if they turn burning-hot within 5-10 seconds of turning ON the Xbox 360, you have a short-circuit on that rail.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:28 AM   #15
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

As for reflowing and reballing, we used to do that with a proper rework station. But if you all have is a heatgun, you can still do a proper reflow. Just do NOT bake the board in the oven, as that *will* destroy all of the electrolytic capacitors. I've seen this mistake way too many times.

I wouldn't say that Mad_Professor's way of doing is wrong, but I do have some things to add to that process.

First and foremost, you *will* need proper flux for lead-free solder. Regular rosin may not do so well (in fact, it may burn of and harden way before the lead-free solder melts, which may actually cause an even worse chance of successful reflow). Kingo RMA-218 is a cheap Chinese generic that works fairly well. But I think Kester had some better fluxes available.

As for the reflow process itself:

1) Clean around the chip you will be reflowing with 90+% IPA (isopropyl alcohol).

2) Make a heat shield for any nearby capacitors. I've seen way too many people not do that and pop the caps on their board. Aluminum foil works fine for that. Don't completely cover the caps, though - we are not trying to cook a Turkey here . Just cover them on the side that they are likely to get hit by hot air from the heat gun.

3) Place the board on some kind of a metal stand so that you have access to both the top side and the bottom. I usually do this by clamping metal rods to a table and have the metal rods sticking past the edge of the table. Then I place the board there, so I can have access to both the top and the bottom of the board. This way, I don't have to flip the board when it is hot, which greatly reduces stress on the various BGA components on the board. The chip you are trying to reflow/remove/rebal should always be on the top side.

3a) (Optional, but very highly recommended) If you have a type-K temperature thermometer, put the thermocouple probe near the chip you will be reflowing. Don't put it on the ship itself or under its BGA, as that may actually cause the chip to move out of place once it is hot. As for type-K thermometers, the Lutron TM-902C can be found for about $5 on eBay, and I highly recommend it.

4) Assuming you have a high-power dual temperature heat gun, turn ON the heat gun to the low setting (which should be around 500 Watts, give or take 150) and heat the board from the bottom side, focusing mostly in the area under the BGA chip you are trying to reflow.

5) When the temperature readout of the type-K thermometer reaches 150C-160C (if you don't have a thermometer, it will probably take 3-5 minutes to get up to that temperature), stop heating and gently apply flux around the edges of the chip. The hot air coming from between the board and the chip will actually suck the flux right into the BGA, so no need to worry how to put the flux under the chip. Also, do NOT drown the chip in flux. Too much flux can actually cause the solder balls to move around and short out to each other.

6) Switch the heat gun to the high setting (should be around 1000 Watts) and continue heating the chip from the bottom of the board.

7) When the temperature reaches around 180C (again, if you don't have a thermometer, this could take another 2-3 minutes), stop the heatgun and carefully move it to the top side of the board. Begin heating the top side of the board on the high setting again.

8) When the temperature reaches around 220-230C and stays in that range for 10 seconds (again, if you don't have a thermometer, this could take another 2-3 minutes), turn OFF the heat gun.

9) Let the board cool down for about 10-20 minutes (this will depend on how hot/cold it is where you are working).

10) Remove protective heat shield around caps and test the board. (Don't forget to add thermal compound to the CPU and GPU, of course. )

Last edited by momaka; 03-05-2016 at 10:31 AM..
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:03 AM   #16
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by momaka View Post
As for reflowing and reballing, we used to do that with a proper rework station. But if you all have is a heatgun, you can still do a proper reflow. Just do NOT bake the board in the oven, as that *will* destroy all of the electrolytic capacitors. I've seen this mistake way too many times.

I wouldn't say that Mad_Professor's way of doing is wrong, but I do have some things to add to that process.

First and foremost, you *will* need proper flux for lead-free solder. Regular rosin may not do so well (in fact, it may burn of and harden way before the lead-free solder melts, which may actually cause an even worse chance of successful reflow). Kingo RMA-218 is a cheap Chinese generic that works fairly well. But I think Kester had some better fluxes available.

As for the reflow process itself:

1) Clean around the chip you will be reflowing with 90+% IPA (isopropyl alcohol).

2) Make a heat shield for any nearby capacitors. I've seen way too many people not do that and pop the caps on their board. Aluminum foil works fine for that. Don't completely cover the caps, though - we are not trying to cook a Turkey here . Just cover them on the side that they are likely to get hit by hot air from the heat gun.

3) Place the board on some kind of a metal stand so that you have access to both the top side and the bottom. I usually do this by clamping metal rods to a table and have the metal rods sticking past the edge of the table. Then I place the board there, so I can have access to both the top and the bottom of the board. This way, I don't have to flip the board when it is hot, which greatly reduces stress on the various BGA components on the board. The chip you are trying to reflow/remove/rebal should always be on the top side.

3a) (Optional, but very highly recommended) If you have a type-K temperature thermometer, put the thermocouple probe near the chip you will be reflowing. Don't put it on the ship itself or under its BGA, as that may actually cause the chip to move out of place once it is hot. As for type-K thermometers, the Lutron TM-902C can be found for about $5 on eBay, and I highly recommend it.

4) Assuming you have a high-power dual temperature heat gun, turn ON the heat gun to the low setting (which should be around 500 Watts, give or take 150) and heat the board from the bottom side, focusing mostly in the area under the BGA chip you are trying to reflow.

5) When the temperature readout of the type-K thermometer reaches 150C-160C (if you don't have a thermometer, it will probably take 3-5 minutes to get up to that temperature), stop heating and gently apply flux around the edges of the chip. The hot air coming from between the board and the chip will actually suck the flux right into the BGA, so no need to worry how to put the flux under the chip. Also, do NOT drown the chip in flux. Too much flux can actually cause the solder balls to move around and short out to each other.

6) Switch the heat gun to the high setting (should be around 1000 Watts) and continue heating the chip from the bottom of the board.

7) When the temperature reaches around 180C (again, if you don't have a thermometer, this could take another 2-3 minutes), stop the heatgun and carefully move it to the top side of the board. Begin heating the top side of the board on the high setting again.

8) When the temperature reaches around 220-230C and stays in that range for 10 seconds (again, if you don't have a thermometer, this could take another 2-3 minutes), turn OFF the heat gun.

9) Let the board cool down for about 10-20 minutes (this will depend on how hot/cold it is where you are working).

10) Remove protective heat shield around caps and test the board. (Don't forget to add thermal compound to the CPU and GPU, of course. )
Firstly thanks for your quick reply yes i do have liquid no clean flux also a type-K thermometer i have artic siver five or Arctic Silver Ceramique Thermal Compound i can use (used these for a laptop reflow basically i did the same as you have wrote in this thread) and the laptop is still going strong after 1 year typing on it now infact. So just to make it clear formyself do i reflow both chips whilst i have the chance? And yes i have already made a tin foil shield with holes cut out for both chips, this xbox has the proper x clamps on still so i will replace these also on a forum ive read you can add a thin piece of aliminium sheet under the heat sinks too add more pressure on the chips whats your thoughts? and heres a link to the secondary codes etc thanks again for te help/advice.
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.p...des-explained/
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:27 PM   #17
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

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So just to make it clear formyself do i reflow both chips whilst i have the chance?
I would do just the GPU. The CPU takes a lot of heat due to big copper planes and you are much more likely to pop the caps. It is cooled by a big heatsink, so it doesn't reach the same high temperatures that the GPU does, and that's why it has much less problems.

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this xbox has the proper x clamps on still so i will replace these also on a forum ive read you can add a thin piece of aliminium sheet under the heat sinks too add more pressure on the chips whats your thoughts?
I am a bit weary of that method, because then you will have two applications of thermal compound vs. one. And no matter how good of a thermal compound you use, I think that will still have worse heat transfer than the GPU core directly to the heatsink. Also, if you ever do shims, always use copper, since it has better heat conductivity.

As for the X-clamps... Microsoft actually almost did them right. The good about the X-clamps is that they provide back pressure/support behind the CPU and GPU, so the board doesn't get warped (which is really the best heatsink retention mechanism design). It is also a self-balancing design, meaning that the heatsink will always stay flat on the CPU/GPU core. However, here is where Microsoft messed up, IMO: the X-clamps are also screwed to the metal cage of the Xbox. Therefore, they are stationary relative to the metal cage. But if the board is not perfectly straight, or if it moves or warps due to heat inside the Xbox, the heatsinks may loose some contact with the GPU/CPU.

What we used to do in the repair shop is to remove the X-clamp altogether and cut threads on the heatsink nipples that the X-clamp used to grab on. Then, we'd fit nuts on them and tighten all the way down to the board (let me know if you need pictures... I think I still have a few modded heatsinks somewhere). This makes sure the heatsink always stays with the board (and thus makes good contact with the CPU/GPU cores). However, this method *does* warp the board over time. So if you were to do a reflow again, the board could be too warped and the GPU/CPU might actually separate even more from the board.

So personally, I would just re-use the X-clamps. The only modification I would make is to bend each X-clamp so that it applies even more pressure on the CPU/GPU. Now I haven't tested how much pressure those X-clamps apply, but if sufficient, I would also forgo screwing the heatsinks to the metal cage so that the heatsinks can move freely with the board and self-balance on the cores. However, that is a bit dangerous, because the heatsinks can cause damage to the board and/or GPU/CPU core if the Xbox is dropped or knocked badly. Probably not something to do on a customer's box, though, as you don't know how they treat their stuff.

But IMO, the biggest problem is that the GPU heatsink is just too small (and GPU problems are really the most common type). The rev. 2 GPU heatsinks (like the one you have) are a little better, but still not adequate for good cooling. Modding the fans to run at a higher speed definitely helps, but you have to have them cranked to at least 9V to get enough air output, and that makes the Xbox really loud. If you don't care how the Xbox looks and you want to keep it quiet, then find a rev. 1 aluminum CPU heatsink and put it on the GPU. Note that a rev. 2 CPU heatsink will NOT work unless you rotate it 90 degrees (due to GPU having a "second core"). You will also need to make the DVD drive external. But if you want your Xbox 360 to last, that is probably the best way to do it.

Last edited by momaka; 03-05-2016 at 01:37 PM..
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Old 03-05-2016, 02:37 PM   #18
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Thanks for the reply a couple of other questions which heat sink compound? i have artic siver five or Arctic Silver Ceramique Thermal Compound im not sure which ones the best? also as i have a spare top cover ive saw a youtube video and also reece mentioned it about cutting a square in the top plastic and mount a fan on blowing onto the gpu whats your thoughts? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TP1eANg66_U
this is a spare xbox of mine so just want to get it running and use it firstly too see how long a reflow can last and practice on the games lol.
I will bend the original x clamps too add a little more pressure, i had to make a tool to remove them lol as i didnt want to slip with a screw driver removing them so modded a old xclamp as i had a spare.

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Old 03-05-2016, 04:59 PM   #19
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

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which heat sink compound? i have artic siver five or Arctic Silver Ceramique Thermal Compound im not sure which ones the best?
AS 5 is probably the best. Ceramique is okay too.

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Originally Posted by vinceroger69 View Post
also as i have a spare top cover ive saw a youtube video and also reece mentioned it about cutting a square in the top plastic and mount a fan on blowing onto the gpu whats your thoughts? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TP1eANg66_U
Yes, that is actually the other thing I was thinking about suggesting. In general, though, that mod is most effective with the rev. 2 GPU heatsink (like yours), because the fan will blow cool air right onto that little extension of the GPU heatsink. So yes, I do recommend it.
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:15 PM   #20
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Default Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?

Thank you i will try the reflow on monday and see if i can do it ok a quick last question though my gpu has 6 lots of glue around it do i leave it on or try to remove it first thanks again.
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