Can you dignose from the photo ? . Toshiba 65S2650EV

[Ancient1]

Hi

VGH missing

Measurements results :
Image with Both sides, and two : one for each.

* I include my original results, because a couple of points are different - could be misplaced probe.
* I made SURE the TV is not in Standby but [No Input] "mode".

[Davi.p]

Well done...

Now another delicate part, you need a very thin wire, i prefer to use enameled wire, so if you can put hands on an old switching power supply maybe broken, you can dismantle the transformer and unroll the windings, taking the thinnest wire, then make it run to the side of the screen from the tab to the pcb where you will locate the vgh point, make the measure, cut then heat with cigarette lighter both ends, scrape enamel with finger tip from 3/4mm then solder the wire, on the silver paint you must be fast to not heat it too much.

[Ancient1]

THX
Enamel = you mean the clear lacquer coating , yes ?

I have wire , and even better : My friend is watchs tech and I have a very thin wire from watches.

I think the thinner the better as it will not interfere with closing the Plastic Frame , BUT , Do you know the Amps ? I don't want the watches wire to overheat. OR : would "regular", say 5cm x 5cm, transformer wire create issues ?
Can I glue the wire with superglue ? It shouldn't be corrosive !, or Office Cellotape is good enough ? ( broader, packages cellotape is thicker)

I have 2 Test Points with Missing VGH should I solder both ?

Do the other Voltages look fine to you ?

If you look at the Distribution boards I measured , you can see VGH has just one test point , just before the Flex to Panel - I marked it. So I'll solder there ? Or should I solder somewhere closer to T-con ? ( VGH could be used elsewhere ?)
Thanks !

wow, I can't believe I'm doing all this. Reminds me when I replaced dirty Diffusers in a laptop ( sold it)

[Davi.p]

Yes its wire covered with lacquer. Ampere doesn't matter it's very low. it must be very thin like an hair or little more. Best glue is vinylic because hard but easily removable. Any vgh testpoint is ok. Other V. i have some doubts but i think some are disequal due to lack of only vgh. You see two Vgh TP at zero because one is the enter signal to cof, the other is output one, so you if tcon is on bottom, you must solder on to the lowest of two TP.

[Davi.p]

to clean the panel from dust use an antistatic big brush.

[Ancient1]

Vinylic glue ?? example / link ? : Googled. OK

OK, I'll use the VGH exit point , if I understand you correctly

Watch's wire are VERY thin. VERY. You can easily get one at a watchmaker shop since they throw damaged ones all the time ( just a little board inside the watch )

Why did you mention cleaning the Panel from dust ? you mean the inner part , yes ?

* I am thinking on how to make CERTAIN there is no shorting of VGH to other tracks , as all point are exposed and even parts of tracks ( so minute ). I do have needle point irons and I will train. Would be a BIG disappointment to fail at this stage

[Davi.p]

Originally Posted by Ancient1

Vinylic glue ?? example / link ?

Do you know Vinavyl?

OK, I'll use the VGH exit point , if I understand you correctly

No, the input one so the nearest to tcon

Watch's wire are VERY thin.

Must be insulated!!

Why did you mention cleaning the Panel from dust ? you mean the inner part , yes ?

Is your carpet full of dust like anyone?

* I am thinking on how to make CERTAIN there is no shorting of VGH to other tracks , as all point are exposed and even parts of tracks ( so minute ). I do have needle point irons and I will train. Would be a BIG disappointment to fail at this stage

simply paint them

[Ancient1]

As I wrote : I googled so I know Vinavyl and have ( carpenters version )

I am unclear what you mean : I have just one VGH Test Point on the Distribution Board.

Watches have small Coil. They are insulated.

Yes, I thought about Paint. The issue is waiting..

[Davi.p]

what is exit point for you? input output are only on the tab not the pcb!

[Ancient1]

Let's do it another way : I uploaded photos of the distribution boards and the tab.
Can you show me where to solder ? I have just one VGH Test Point there.

And I should glue the wire in the ledge at the end of the screen , right ?

I'll train today soldering and gluing .
Tested the wire with continuity : isolated, lacquered.

[Davi.p]

i cannot edit photos, i'm on a telephone. i'veexplained in small terms everything, it's up to you now..

[Ancient1]

OK . I didn't understand properly ( I thought you were talking about Distribution Board) :

The COF has 2 groups of test points. One is ENTRY and the seconed is EXIT .
I need to solder to the ENTRY point. correct ? the one closest to the Distribution Board .

Since I have only one VGH point on the two distribution boards , there can be no mistake.

I tested soldering to Flex : very easy .

[Davi.p]

very exact

[Ancient1]

Hi

I am about to do the operation, and as usual with me I measure again the TP I will solder to. Turns out I was over exited earlier and I didn't write the Voltage I measured : 18.3V . The Voltage I measured is actually strange : I saw 2.7V and 4V : yes, that same TP . I mean , I was expecting mV.

Do you think its safe to solder ? ( what else can be done ) or is it perhaps indicative of damaged circuit rather than severed ( broken, cut ) line ?

THX

[Davi.p]

I've never done this procedure but you can solder with confidence, that measure could indicate a small percentage of connection of the vgh line...

[Ancient1]

Done soldering

I am waiting for help in putting the panel back.
There are 2 shorted TP nearby.. ( on the floor, and my hand twitched ) I cleaned the tiny solder off the best I could, BUT, I looked at the other side at "nearest to board" and they are shorted too. All other Continuities are OK. So I think its fine.

I put Rosin ( raw flux ) on the TPs. It dries back. its like paint.

So , Fingers Crossed , I can't do any better.

Meantime I thought I'll upload photos for your viewing pleasure.

[Davi.p]

if there is a short i don't see how you can imagine that it will work.. the correct work i had told to you was to discover the vgl and vgh points on the good side and scratch only those on the bad side, i also told you t paint unuseul points before to make soldering.. this is bad news..you have to remove the short, use cream flux maybe, it wouln't be so difficult to separate them, use also desoldering wick, apply much flux..

[Ancient1]

I did use solder wick etc. I feared I might damage a track.

Both pairs of TP, on both sides measure 0V. they are on the #Model side. one row closer to it than the VGH TP. They practically touch.

Its a very difficult job with tiny <1mm points, shiny surface and on the floor. but of course excuses don't matter, what matters is the repair, as hard as it might be.

I will measure and check again to make sure I did my best !.

When I measured every TP, I did not look for shorts. So this might be "by design" and not a fault. You can check previous images : I soldered the Proper Left Tab

[Davi.p]

what do you mean for " they are on the #Model side"? Every track are in the same face, the green one..
be clear that obviously if you previously mesured on the good side 2-3 close points with the same tension, for example vgh, they obviously are tied together normally!! so them will show short

[Ancient1]

The #Model = Model code. It is closest to the Distrib. Boards. I soldered on this , higher, side of the IC.
Anyway , I went now over those TPs with stronger Magnifying glass and Solder Wick and help with lighting. It still beeps , BUT, I am 99% certain there is no extra solder there. The distance between those 2 TP is VERY hard to see - thats how close they are.

I can't take clear enough photos.