Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Replacing BGA components with hot air.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

    I figured out what I'm going to do. I'm going to replace the double pole 30-amp breaker with a double pole 20 amp. I'm going to replace the 14 or (hopefully not) 16 gauge wire inside the BGA machine with 12 gauge. I'm going to purchase that 20-amp 240v recital I linked to earlier (or something similar).

    http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5842-I...amp+receptacle

    I'll try finding one locally and if I can't, I'll order one.

    Now, all I need to know is if I need to run the metal-clad 12/2 or if I could run just normal 12/2. Perhaps I shouldn't even be running 12 because it's a bit of a distance. Maybe I should be running 10 gauge wire.
    -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

    Comment


      Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

      those connectors are overpriced junk, cant you get 32A industrial connectors cheap?
      like these:
      http://www.rapidonline.com/bals-indu...nnectors-63569
      http://www.rapidonline.com/bals-surf...-sockets-63572

      your looking for 32A 2pole + earth, blue. (colourcode for 240v)

      Comment


        Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

        I'm not saying they don't have them here, I've just never seen a 240v connector like that in my life. Here's what one of the local hardware store sells:

        http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrica...Boutlet?NCNI-5

        I'd like to keep it in the wall, like our normal outlets. You know, with one of those receptacle covers and all that jazz.
        -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

        Comment


          Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

          I was thinking something like this:

          http://www.homedepot.com/p/30-Amp-25...CCV3/100117946

          And just running 10/2 metal-clad wiring. There's so many different connectors though. Does it matter? Is it just personal preference and so long as the outlet meets my requirements, I can pick what I want, or is there some reason the dryers use a certain type of connecter, the stoves use a different type of connector, etc?
          -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

          Comment


            Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

            it's a safety thing a lot of the flat-contact NEMA connectors are known to have issues when they age.

            those coloured ones are locking, use round pins, and are rain-proof - not that i expect you to burst a pipe!!
            they are rated for use outdoors in truck loading bays and on construction sites

            cable-wise a 2.5mm "twin & earth" flat conductor can do 30A
            you should be using solid copper wire for that voltage & current in the wall.

            Comment


              Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

              Originally posted by stj View Post
              it's a safety thing a lot of the flat-contact NEMA connectors are known to have issues when they age.

              those coloured ones are locking, use round pins, and are rain-proof - not that i expect you to burst a pipe!!
              they are rated for use outdoors in truck loading bays and on construction sites
              I'm almost thinking of going for those locking round pin ones you showed but if I go for a different connector, I can get everything locally today. I think I'm probably going to do that. Just go to Home Depot and purchase what's needed.

              Originally posted by stj View Post
              cable-wise a 2.5mm "twin & earth" flat conductor can do 30A
              you should be using solid copper wire for that voltage & current in the wall.
              You're speaking a different language here! Twin & earth?
              -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

              Comment


                Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

                standard in europe for building wiring,
                you have 2 shielded conductors, with an unshielded earth conductor between them in a rectangular outer insulation that is LSF rated.
                (low smoke fume)
                looks like this
                http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-25m...er-metre-l27bq

                pay no mind to the stupid new colour-code - it used to be red & black

                Comment


                  Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

                  Ahh! I know what you're talking about. Here, I'd call that x/2 (where x would be the gauge). If that was 10 gauge, I'd call it 10 / 2. If it had three wires plus the unshielded earth conductor and it was 10 gauge wire, I'd call it 10 / 3.

                  Because I'm planning on running it over the rafters and not drilling holes through each of the rafter's 2/4's (or whatever they are up there), I believe I need to use what's called MC (metal-clad). The metal-clad I don't think has the bare wire. It needs to all be shielded because, well, it's metal-cladded. Here's what 10/2 MC looks like:

                  http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...2886347894.jpg

                  The green would be equivalent to the bare wire. The black and white wires would be 120v hot, each. I could go for 10/3 MC but the way my unit is wired, I don't think it'd do any good.

                  Here's some wires. Because it's a bit hard to see what's what, I've uploaded a little table showing what's what. The wire that the previous owner's electrician wired up is 12-gauge but the wires that go from the unit's built in breaker seem to be 14 or maybe even 16-gauge. They're definitely skinner. I was thinking of replacing them with 12-gauge, although, with shorter distances, I think using a smaller gauge (higher number) might be okay...
                  Attached Files
                  -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                  Comment


                    Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

                    what is that photo, the rework unit?
                    i'm surprised it's using u.s. colourcodes on the cable!

                    Comment


                      Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

                      Originally posted by stj View Post
                      what is that photo, the rework unit?
                      i'm surprised it's using u.s. colourcodes on the cable!
                      Yes, that's the inside of the rework unit. Keep in mind, it normally doesn't come wired. So the blue and brown I think came with the unit. The black, white and green 12-gauge was installed by a certified US electrician. I'm pretty sure if the yellow came with the unit as well. From my understanding, the blue and brown (and possibly yellow) came with the unit, the white, black and green were installed by the certified electrician.

                      I've never seen blue and brown and yellow being used for AC before. Once again though, I don't play with AC a lot. As far as I can remember, all the AC lines I've ever seen where green, black and white. Usually, in place of the green wire, there was just bare copper. Wouldn't the blue / brown / yellow be non-USA colourcodes?
                      -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                      Comment


                        Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

                        Anyone here real smart with infrared type heaters? I'm thinking of replacing all the ceramic heating elements with the Elstein heating elements. They're a much higher end name.

                        The ones I have in there now are very cheap! I contacted Elstein, they suggested the SHTS series. The problem is I have four 600 watt units and two 150 watt units. For the SHTS series, they make the 600 watt units that I need but they don't make any 150 watt. The smallest they make for that series would be the 300 watt.

                        Can I just knock out my two 150 watt ceramic heaters and drop two 300 watt ones in there? Or would that cause problems? There's also the HTS series. The HTS/4 would be the one I'd need for the 150 watt and then the HTS/1 I'd get for the 600 watt ones. Besides colour, I can't see much of a difference between the two. What do you guys think?
                        -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X