Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

[DamneD2000]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

My solution for the QFU platform (42PFL6907T) was the reballing of CPU with active heatsing cooling, made from my old PC VGA card. Some pics of the final improvement

[DamneD2000]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

My solution to make my 42PFL6907T work was the reballing of the CPU and making active cooling with heatsink taken from my old VGA card.
Here is how it looks like

[Maalobs]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

Nicely done!

Although, that small fan looks like it could become a little loud and whiny on permanent max speed while the TV is running.

I bought a 75" Philips 75PUS6754/12 a couple of years ago and as a pre-emptive measure, I opened it up to inspect the state of the planned obsolescence in the device.
When I removed the heatsink assembly from the main processor I noticed that whatever they had used as thermal paste underneath it, could easily have been mistaken for a seagull's watery diarrhea.
I cleaned that mess out and replaced it with some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut instead.
The heatsink still got very hot though and the entire system was clearly baking inside the chassis under prolonged use, so that wasn't going to be enough.

Then on further investigation I noticed how the USB-ports on this system actually power down properly when the TV enters the standby-state.
That's useful, so I bought a PWM-controlled 12cm PC-fan, and made a hole for it in the TV's plastic back case right above the heatsink, leaving the corners in place so I could drill holes there for the fan.
Then I mounted the fan into the chassis with the usual self-tapping screws that are included with the fan.
It worked out quite nicely, and I have open space behind the TV as well since it's standing on the feet.

I got a quiet Noctua fan, and they also sell a small separate fan controller device which has a dial on it to control the fan speed.
I already had a small USB-to-12V step-up adapter from somewhere, similar to this thing, which I opened up so I could solder the input of the fan controller directly to the output-pads on the converter's PCB:

Then I dialed the fan speed down to a tolerable noise level on the controller, which with the quiet and stable Noctua meant just reducing the woosh of the air blowing.
The fan also has rubber bumpers in the corners so there is no vibration carried into the big, wobbly back case either.
It has worked flawlessly for the past two years, and the fan turns off as expected when the TV goes into standby.




The point is; you also have to get the hot air out of the device, so make a hole above that fan as well.
You'll find that the plastic is surprisingly easy to work, even with crude tools!

[Davi.p]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

For anybody that comes here in the discussion and wants to make a reflowing job, it's important to slowly cook the chip for a day before attempting a reflow, this is to prevent the famous popcorn effect that destroys the chip in fact, for this purpose you can use an oven at about 100 celsius degrees connected to an external timer for mains interruption after 24h. So the reflow preferably mostly from the bottom or both..

[Zano64]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

Some months ago I posted concerning the revival of my 47pfl7108h_12 TV set by blowing hot air to the SSB CPU.
Unfortunately after some time it began stopping and restarting without reason, till it completely stopped with the well known LED blinking.

I did not read the last post about a day cooking (sorry Davi.p), so I applied another method (inspired from another blog post) which I will call the "Kitchen oven reflow".
You will see on attachment the SSB PCB in the oven, set on bolts and nuts high enough to obtain more or less equal temperatures above and below the board.
I achieved the temperature curve (measured by a thermocouple) similar (I hope) to a pro reflux process. The most difficult part was that the oven thermostat is not at all accurate.

In addition to that kitchen reflow I replaced the heatsink by an aluminum one, see photos which this time I managed to post.

And the set is revived for the second time.
How long will it last ? No idea at all
See you later folks.

[Davi.p]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

Let us know how it goes... and tell me if the board watched from long profile is bent

[Zano64]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

The TV has worked fine in my house during a rew days. Then it traveled a hundred+ km to my daughter's house. And there it started well but is beginning to stop working after some minutes. I will recover it later and I will tell you if the PCB is bent.
What I plan to do is to reflow it again in the oven, then reinstall the foam pad below the SSD board to keep it as flat and stable as possible. And finally install some kind of clips on the heatsink to apply it as tight as possible to the SSB IC.

[William1967]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

The TV has worked fine in my house during a rew days. Then it traveled a hundred+ km to my daughter's house. And there it started well but is beginning to stop working after some minutes. I will recover it later and I will tell you if the PCB is bent.
What I plan to do is to reflow it again in the oven, then reinstall the foam pad below the SSD board to keep it as flat and stable as possible. And finally install some kind of clips on the heatsink to apply it as tight as possible to the SSB IC.

Reballing is the only solution, the solder used in the factory is not good anymore. Heating it up in an oven might work but usually not for long.

[Davi.p]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

My suspect is that by some manufacturers a tin with short life is carefully tested to shorten device life, so new solder must be put in, maybe also in the die if possible...

[Maalobs]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

The TV has worked fine in my house during a rew days. Then it traveled a hundred+ km to my daughter's house. And there it started well but is beginning to stop working after some minutes.

Did you tap the corner of the chip while it was heated, as I described in this earlier comment?

And finally install some kind of clips on the heatsink to apply it as tight as possible to the SSB IC.

Looks like your model doesn't have the 54.6mm diagonal mounting holes, unless the heatsink covers the holes in your photo?
I think you are fine if you are using a thermal adhesive underneath the heatsink already, but if you find a way to push down the heatsink with mechanical force, please share it with us with pictures.

Something that would be convenient in this case is if there was a USB-fan product with an actuated arm like the Arctic Breeze Mobile, but also with a built-in fan-control:

I bought one of these to investigate the sound level of it.
It turned out that it runs at full speed and just the wind noise was too much, but the worst part was that having the fan out on the end of the actuated arm creates a mechanical vibration that reverberates into the SSB and chassis, which created a noise that was far too loud for this fan to be useful.
If only it had a way to dial the fan speed, it would had been a cheap and very simple solution for our particular problem.
That's why I went with the arguably overkill solution of a controlled PC-fan instead, which works very well but costs more.

[dominik0801]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

Hello,
It's that time of the year again.

I have already blown the Fusion chip in my TV with hot air 10+ times, but the double blink always came back, so last time (2021 september 22) I did a proper reflow under the BGA machine.

I told to myself, that now we will see how long it will work, but the next time it fails I'm going to reball the chip.

Well.. today morning I woke up, wanted to watch some TV, but aww no, double blink..
I didn't even order stencil yet, and my gf comes to my place for a week, so I will need the TV fast. So I was like, okay.. reflow it once again, and next time I WILL reball it.

----------------

So I did the reflow today, which in fact made the TV come alive, so I put it together, but when I tried to switch to my TV BOX via HDMI, it wouldn't work..

I tried all 5 of the HDMI ports, but nothing.
It did recognize, that I plugged in a HDMI, but it would simply say "No video input" or something. Tried it with a laptop too, without any success.

Meh.. I really didn't want to wait for that stencil I ordered today, so I desoldered the CPU and reballed it without stencil - I did it already with GPUs, I knew it will be long and frustrating, but it is what it is..



I did the reballing, soldered it back and yes.. the TV works now, even the HDMI ports are functioning.



I didn't have 0.65mm balls, on other forums they said that it is the right size, I used 0.6mm, hopefully they won't fail.

If I was already there, fixed some loose-looking SMD caps and resistors, oiled my CPU fan, put a fuse on the +12V TCON jumper wire as it didn't have any when I soldered it in.

Let's see, how long it will go.

[Maalobs]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

Hopefully you fixed it for the final time now with the proper reballing.

The original TV from this thread is still the daily driver of my friend and it's working flawlessly.

[kazbayadum]

Re: Philips 60PFL8708S/12 - QFU1.2E LA - Error code 53

Hello, I am going to share my experience with you.

A year and a half ago (2021 August) I got the famous error 53. I disassembled the TV and tried to reflow it without success on my own. As it seems to me something that requires some previous experience, I took the green motherboard to a store in the neighborhood, where they repair video game consoles. There they did a reflow.

The sales clerk did not charge me because he had no way of checking that he had done the job properly. I took it home and it has been working until last month. I don't use the TV much, to be honest, but it held up pretty well. The only thing I changed was the thermal paste. I used the same ceramic heatsink it comes with.

Now I am going to repeat the feat (2023 January). This time I will try to find a 54.6mm heatsink to replace the previous one, with two diagonal holes and some mechanical system that presses the heatsink against the board. I'm hoping that with that and a custom drill hole in the back cover, it will be enough. I don't like fans, I'm quite a fan of fanless systems.



On the other hand, while I'm here, I've never been entirely happy with this TV. The controls seem stilted to me, the smartTV is slow (and with a proprietary OS) and the keypad signals from the remote, don't transmit over HDMI as I expected would happen. Do you know of any hacked firmware updates that would improve these aspects? Maybe AndroidTV?


Best regards and if I remember I will send you pictures of the result!