Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #41
    Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

    Hey thanks for reply!
    I was a bit skeptical this would be the only fix required given the funny green lines mentioned with the dynamic fuzzying. And wondering how long it would even last if it did remedy it.

    Alas it seems someone else grabbed it for $50, I hope they have good luck!

    Comment


      #42
      Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

      Hey, I know I'm a bit late, but this thread seems to be immortal and my question doesn't feel worth a whole thread

      Is there anywhere left to source the fw900 flybacks? I've had one I've been troubleshooting for months, and people think the flyback is probably bad in my set. I don't believe the vacuum is compromised, because I can still get a picture to come on periodically, but never longer than a few seconds.

      This is one of the only places on the internet I could find anybody talking about sourcing and replacing the flyback, so idk if any of the wisebeards here have any insider knowledge I could use to bring this fw900 back into the land of the living. Cheers <3

      inb4 I'm YEETED for gravedigging xD
      Last edited by jhutchinson; 09-29-2019, 08:40 AM.

      Comment


        #43
        Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

        bad flyback will usually make the set powercycle or make a ticking sound or a sqeal.

        i would be looking for cracked solder joints for intermittant stuff.

        Comment


          #44
          Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

          If you are getting a picture, even for a few seconds, it is very unlikely to be the flyback. There are many protection circuits in these monitors that will shut it down if things are not correct, start by making sure the power supply voltages are correct.
          Then check that you have +B 220v, If this voltage is wrong the monitor will shut down, check C913 (33µf/450v)
          Last edited by R_J; 09-29-2019, 11:18 AM.

          Comment


            #45
            Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

            Agreed with the others - unlikely that the issue is a flyback.

            @ jhutchinson: remove the power supply (D) board and inspect for solder joints - especially things like the heater, and some of the linear rails attached to tall heatsinks (there are a few on there, and they don't have much support, so they do tend to crack the solder joints.) When I got my two GDM-FW900 monitors, one had a lot of bad solder joints on the power supply board. The other had only a few that didn't affect its operation. But it also had a bad (leaked) tube, as evident by the blue glow (arcing) coming from the back in the electron gun area. So what I did at first is put the "good" power supply (D) from the first monitor with the bad tube in the second with the "bad" PSU board. This got one of them working. Eventually I fixed the broken solder joints on the "bad" PSU board and that allowed me to get to testing the monitor with the bad tube... to only find out that one wasn't fixable.

            If bad comes to worse, I still do have the parts from that second "dead" FW900 monitor here (been keeping them as a spare for my other working FW900.) If you ever do swing by VA, you're welcome to try them on your monitor, though.

            Comment


              #46
              Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

              Also, get yourself an HV probe and check the EHT to the CRT. It may be shutting itself down as the HV develops due to it being too high and tripping out the X-ray protection. If it's too high, you'll need to start checking the horizontal/HV section of the monitor. DANGER: Nasty voltages present there.
              Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.

              My computer doubles as a space heater.

              Permanently Retired Systems:
              RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
              Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.


              Kooky and Kool Systems
              - 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
              - 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
              - 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
              - Main Workstation - Fully operational!

              sigpic

              Comment


                #47
                Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

                Originally posted by momaka View Post

                If bad comes to worse, I still do have the parts from that second "dead" FW900 monitor here (been keeping them as a spare for my other working FW900.) If you ever do swing by VA, you're welcome to try them on your monitor, though.
                Hello Momaka!
                Do you still have any parts left from your FW-900s?
                I'm looking for the D-board, G-board and the NX-4504 FBT.
                Thanks

                Comment


                  #48
                  Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

                  Hello,

                  I've a problem similar to your... I've a Dell p991 ( SONY CPD-G400 ) and sometime the image flick and when the image flick the spark gap SG901 sparks... Did you know a way to fix it??

                  Here a video of the probleme
                  https://files.catbox.moe/wljf3i.mp4

                  Comment


                    #49
                    Re: I need help fixing a Sony GDM-FW900 24” CRT

                    That is definitely not a FW900, it's a Dell P991 aka Dell P1130 aka IBM P275 which I'm intimately familiar with and I still have the P275 lying around at my grandparents' place. The P1130, my mom made me give it away a couple years ago lol.

                    So, open a new thread. It is likely your problem is either caused by dust, or by a FIRMWARE issue which can be solved via a special RS232 cable (USB to RS232 adapter works too) and the factory software which can adjust the G2 voltage. Also there is a temperature sensor on this chassis which causes more harm than good, I can guide you on how to disable it, I've figured it out myself many years ago from the schematics.

                    PS. If you have an old computer or laptop with a serial port, I can ship you the service cable with USB power plug for free just PM me your address once you get the required privileges. The P275 doesn't need firmware adjustments yet, I've had it for over 14 years and taken good care of it. It needs a full recap of the signal board as it's slightly wavy on the horizontal but that's a hardware thing and I use XP on that computer so I can't be bothered running any higher resolution than 1400x1050 anyway.

                    The P1130 I bought with the G2 issue, peak brightness with retrace lines visible at 0% menu brightness from day one of me owning it, and I built the cable and fixed it like 12 years ago.
                    Last edited by Th3_uN1Qu3; 11-13-2022, 04:03 PM.
                    Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                    Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                    A working TV? How boring!

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X