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    Celestix Scorpio II

    I recently came into possession of a decommissioned 1u rackmount system: It started out fine; but began showing signs of instability. Popped the top and the dreaded burst capacitors were much in evidence.

    The model is "Celestix Scorpio II 865G". Celestix appears to be a pure OEM shop, so there isn't much documentation available; but it appears to be a pretty normal Intel 865G board with fewer desktop features and more NICs.

    The bulk of the capacitors are "KZG" labelled and either 6.3v/3300uf or 16v/1500uf. I'm new to re-capping, so I'd appreciate some advice:

    Do I replace all, just the visibly damaged ones, all the ones in the CPU voltage regulation area; but not the ones elsewhere on the board? What replacement parts would you guys recommend?
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Celestix Scorpio II

    If some capacitors of that series are swollen and dying, chances are the others don't have much life in them left, so I'd replace all of them.

    If it's very tight budget, maybe I'd skip the capacitors on the corner of the motherboard, near the memory slots - those in general are not "stressed" that much during their lifetime and they're not heated a lot so if they're not swollen, they probably still have some life in them.

    What you have to do is read the values on the capacitors and look up in the datasheet the other important parameters about them.

    For the ones labeled KZG, that means they're made by Chemi-Con and the datasheet is here:

    So you have:

    1500uF 16v 10x20mm 0.013 mOhm 2,550 mA ripple
    3300uF 6.3v 10x25mm 0.012 Ohm 2,800 mA ripple

    and you probably have others with different uF values and voltages as well, get the info for them as well.

    You will need to get capacitors that:
    - fit the diameter of your current (the 10 in the 10x12.5 or 10x25) - you could pick wider ones if you have room on the motherboard and it looks like you don't near the CPU
    - have >= the ripple value of the original ones
    - have <= the impedance value of the original ones

    Good online stores to buy from are digikey.com in US or farnell.com if you're in Europe. There's also mouser.com but their selection is rather small.

    Assuming you're in US, go on digikey.com here: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...dll?Cat=131081
    Select what you want from a column, click apply filters and repeat, then click on View page.

    So for 1500uF 16v, you select and apply filter after each of these:
    mounting type : through hole
    capacitance: 1500uF
    voltage rating: 16v
    if still too many results :
    temperature rating : 105c and higher (use Ctrl key to select several)

    Check the In stock checkbox below, apply filters again and you should get about 20-25 results. Click on View page of you don't get the results right away.

    Now you can sort the table by impedance or ripple, then open several items and check both the ripple and impedance - ripple must be >= , impedance must be <=

    So what would work for 1,500uF 16v 10x20.5 0.013 Ohm 2,550 mA ripple is:

    (gonna add them now, editing post as i initially screwed up and gave examples for 1500uF 6.3v - don't wanna confuse anyone reading)

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...UHM1C152MPD-ND

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12368-ND (the slightly higher impedance of 0.018 Ohm is unlikely to matter, it's close enough, but if you can get the first get that one because this one is also 12.5mm wide and you may not have room on the board)

    Repeat the process for the 3300uF ones and for capacitors with other values you might have, post the ones you decided on and we'll see if everything looks right.

    If you don't get any good results, you can go back and select a voltage higher than the original capacitors are designed for (for example instead of 16v, pick the ones rated for 25v or even 35v). As long as they have a diameter that fits the space on your motherboard, they should work just fine.
    Last edited by mariushm; 09-06-2011, 01:55 AM.

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      #3
      Re: Celestix Scorpio II

      Go with the 1st ones suggested to replace the 1500uF 16V (Nichicon HM series)

      For the 3300uF caps, Digikey don't seem to have any available (they are listed but with 0 qty available). Badcaps.net sells Nichicon HZ series (like these). They would probably work, but would be overkill and, in theory, could have a shorter lifespan, than HM or equivilant. I would prefer to stick with something like these or these, from PCMCS, one of VERY few eBay sellers who sell genuine caps.
      I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

      No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

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      Comment


        #4
        Re: Celestix Scorpio II

        If you're in the US, you should take a look at what Topcat offers right here on badcaps.net

        https://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=22
        Ludicrous gibs!

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Celestix Scorpio II

          Originally posted by fuzzyfuzzyfungus View Post
          The bulk of the capacitors are "KZG" labelled and either 6.3v/3300uf or 16v/1500uf. I'm new to re-capping, so I'd appreciate some advice:
          The KZG have to go [all of them].
          They are one of the problem series that go bad often and they often go bad without bloating so if you don't replace them you can have bad caps and not even know it.
          .
          You can look here to see what caps are suitable.
          https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...1&postcount=17
          Look where MBZ begins a line in the list.
          Everything on that line is the same grade as KZG. [For ESR and Ripple.]
          The lines above it would be upgrades. [Better]
          .
          If you will please edit your profile to show your location [at least the country] then people can give you better guidance as to sources of parts.
          .
          Mann-Made Global Warming.
          - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.

          -
          Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.

          - Dr Seuss
          -
          You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
          -

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Celestix Scorpio II

            I found this forum by googling the MoBo name/model what looks like the same device as the OP. Looking at the photos, the exact same caps are blown out.
            Apart from the swollen and the leaked residue, there is no other sign of damage.
            The device doesn't start up. It lights, but the MoBo just emits a loud alarm.
            I'm interested in repair if that is possible. I'm in the UK. The size and spec of this device is ideal for my needs... I hope I can get it up and running.

            In experience is replacing the caps likley to help?

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Celestix Scorpio II

              I've had a look at exactly what caps are on the board...
              Many KZG caps all marked (m)105degC
              15x 1500uF 16v 10x20mm (2 marked 4(7) DH, the rest 5(7) 2E)
              4x 1000uF 10v 8x15mm (2 marked 4(7) NL, 2 marked 5(7) 1L)
              10x 3300uF 6.3v 10x25mm (marked 5(7) 2P)

              4x Hermei 470uF 16v 8mm dia, HT 105C

              The only ones blown are the 3300uF 6.3v so I will look to replace those first...

              the only choice on Farnell seem to match spec are:
              http://uk.farnell.com/nichicon/uhm0j...-3v/dp/1823799

              Seems the same are available on Ebay too... a little cheaper on the postage...
              http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-6-3V-3...item1c105ddfea

              How can you tell non genuine parts?

              Cheers

              Red.

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Celestix Scorpio II

                Originally posted by redband View Post
                Seems the same are available on Ebay too... a little cheaper on the postage...
                http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-6-3V-3...item1c105ddfea
                Seller doesn't even list the series, these could be anything.

                Originally posted by redband View Post
                How can you tell non genuine parts?

                Red.
                The only way is to compare them to known good parts. Fakes may have different vents, different sleeves, different bungs, different font, or different color. Some fakes are painfully obvious, some are almost impossible to distinguish.

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