![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Rebuilding & resurrecting my first dual-core system
![]() The board itself seems to be in good condition, from testing it's had no troubles with an overclocked Opteron 175 and 4x 1GB DIMMs in it. The problem is, the PCIe slots don't work. Given the numbers of sad looking caps around the slots, this isn't surprising (one of the caps started smoking in the first testing POST!). Runs fine with a PCI video card which is how I clocked the CPUs and tested it. The caps around the CPU socket are all sealed jobbies, so I'm planning on leaving those alone and just replacing the swarm of KZG's everywhere else. Current count (rev 1.01 board) 3x 16v 1000uf around the CPU aux power socket 2x 6.3v 1800uf at the molex EZ_Plug 24x 6.3v 820uf all over the board (many vented) 2x 16v 470uf under PCIEx4 & PCIE16_2 (x4 right next to a 6.3v 830uf; better not get 'em confused!) 11x 16v 100uf (which I'm presumung don't need replacing) I'm logging these results for a local forum search here Replace caps on ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe? (2014) ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe (2012) Help Identify Caps on Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe (2005) Keeping in mind whats available in Australia in 2018/2019, what would you suggest I replace these with? I consider this system to have some sentimental value, so I'd like to do the job properly and am thus looking to avoid whatever no-name cheapie low-ESR caps are available from my local electronics store. cheers Aeth.. Last edited by Per Hansson; 12-24-2018 at 01:25 AM.. Reason: fixed wrong link |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Just trawling around e14 this morning (yes it Christmas morning but I live with severe depression and this is much better than googling noose tying).
Looks like they stock various Rubycon, Nichicon, Panasonic & others. Reasons to pick between each? Pannys seem quite expensive, but they rate much higher runtimes at temperature. Rubys do too, but they're not all available in the right sizes. Nichicons are pretty cheap. Pros? Cons? 16v 1000uf (8mm x 20mm) Thinking Rubycon ZLH here 2x 6.3v 1800uf (8mm x 20mm) Nichicon HM vs Panny FS? Half the listed ESR vs 4x the hour rating? (Panny is also 2000uf) 24x 6.3v 820uf (8mm x 12mm) Rubycons again. ZLH? ZLJ? Anyone know the effective difference? 2x 16v 470uf (8mm x 13mm) Lots of options - Panny, Ruby, Nichi, other brands I don't recognise... Just slap in a pair of Ruby ZLHes? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
City & State: ----
My Country: Sweden
Line Voltage: 230v 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,319
|
![]() Welcome to Badcaps!
All the brands you listed are good brands, well, the original caps are too, just they fucked up the formula for a quite extended time period. Usually Panasonic FJ is used interchangeably by the manufacturers in place of UCC KZG. The Rubycon ZLH & ZLJ might be a tad lower spec than the original, but they should be alright. Nowdays it's hard to match the original caps, because ultra low ESR alauminium electrolytic capacitors have pretty much entirely been replaced with solid polymer capacitors. These usually have much lower ESR than even the best ultra low ESR aluminium caps of the past...
__________________
"The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it." |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |||
HC Overclocker
Join Date: Jul 2012
City & State: Singapore
My Country: Singapore
Line Voltage: 240VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,626
|
![]() hi, good to see another interested in retro stuff like me! i recently acquired this board off ebay and thankfully, i was sharp enough to get one that has all rubycon mbz and panny fj caps around the board. glad to assist u in making this board last as long as possible since that seems to be your aim.
Quote:
where the cap is located on the board and what job it is responsible for is also the important reason to pick the right caps for the job. this is for the cpu vrm input area and yes that is fine. u can pick panny fr too since it has a 9000 hour lifetime for this size compared to 8000 hours on the ruby zlh and chemicon kzm. u can also try polymodding with 8mm 470uf 16v poly caps. look for nichicon fpcap, chemicon npcap and panasonic oscon datasheets for the right cap series and size. so if u are going to be overclocking the cpu, choose poly caps as the lower esr and better ripple filtering specs *may* help somewhat in the overclock. these two caps are responsible for chipset filtering. looking at the vrm for the chipset, it wont have any problems being polymodded. replace this with an 8mm 820-1000uf 6.3v poly cap. Quote:
u can also polymod this with 560uf 6.3v poly caps but poly caps are quite costly and buying 24 of em will break your wallet! so stick to long life rated electrolytics instead for better cost effectiveness. Quote:
u can also polymod with 270uf 16v caps but it isnt worth the extra cost incurred from paying more for poly caps here. only use em where they matter most so just stick to long life electrolytics again. and lastly, make sure u use a good quality jap cap psu with ultra low ripple on the outputs like the superflower leadex platform and evga g2/g3 series. it is well known around here that junk psus are responsible for killing the caps on mobos ![]() ![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Believe in
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Bucharest
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,358
|
![]() Sorry to bring bad news, but that board uses a nForce chipset which has the dreaded "Bumpgate" failure baked-in. That is the reason why your PCI-E ports don't work.
Removing the chipset heatsinks, blasting some hot air onto the Northbridge and replacing the thermal compound with something high quality will get it back running - for a short while. Unless you add a fan to that chipset heatsink and cool it really well, it will die again. Not worth bothering with IMHO. ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
SNES-powered
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Romania
My Country: Bacau
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,008
|
![]() Quote:
Don't get me wrong, but nForce 4 is the toughest when it comes to this issue. I have a K8N4-E that despite heating up like a pan it won't give up at all. Hence why I'd agree on the caps being bad. Before using mine I had to replace about 3-4 KZGs because they were bulging. It did work fine afterwards.
__________________
Main rig: ASUS H61M-A Core i3-3220 3.30GHz MSI Twinfrozr GTX 750Ti 2GB GDDR5 6GB DDR3-1066 Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW Raidmax RX-500XT (recapped) Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB JNC RJA-52 case |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 | ||
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 9,097
|
![]() Quote:
I've done a board full of bulged 820 uF United Chemicon KZG caps with Rubycon ZLH. Works fine, never skipped a beat. Did a few other mobos with them afterwards - all fine too. Most caps on the board aren't exactly critical on the ESR and not in stressful spots. So I wouldn't worry about the "endurance" rating too much. The only caps you'd want to go with lower ESR are probably the 16V 1000 uF caps around the CPU and the 6.3V 1800 uF (which I suspect are either for the RAM or Northbridge and likely on a buck-regulated rail). So for these, Nichicon HM/HN/HZ might be the better pick. But Panasonic FR, FM (and possibly FS) should be okay too if HM or higher class are not available. (Truth be told, even ZLH would work - anything is better than bad KZGs really. ![]() That said, consider not using the board until you get it recapped. Otherwise, the bad caps could do damage to some circuits (namely any buck regulators). Quote:
But if the board has bulged caps, there's also a big chance those could be the issue. So I think it's best to first fix the caps first and see if that gets the PCI-E slots going. If not, then perhaps attempt a reflow. And either way, if the board gets up and running, I agree with your suggestion - a bigger, more powerful fan + heatsink for the NB should be considered. Last edited by momaka; 12-29-2018 at 11:47 PM.. |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | ||
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. Looks like element14 has everything I need to get this baby recapped.
Thanks for the info, I'd been debating about polymodding it but have been head-scratching over the right values and thinking it falls into the "too hard" basket. I've got an original Corsair HX620 tucked away for it already. (y) If I recall correctly, 105 degree all-japanese caps was their big selling point way back when. The 5 year warranty was simply unheard of at the time ![]() 12 years on, I still have four of the original HX'es in service, two of them running modern hardware on a daily basis! Quote:
Quote:
The older A8N-SLI boards just had crappy little aluminum coolers that used to run crazy hot with dinky 35?mm sleeve bearing fans that died so regularly it used to be a big part of my day job swapping those suckers out. Asus distie used to send us replacement fans in packs of 20. I've literally just finished baking a GTX275 that I suspect was suffering from bumpgate (what else does one do on the first day of the new year?). Just have to replace the solid caps that didn't like 220*C ![]() Thread to confirm cap choices is over here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...569#post871569 Good thing I haven't placed my Element14 order yet... |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |||
HC Overclocker
Join Date: Jul 2012
City & State: Singapore
My Country: Singapore
Line Voltage: 240VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,626
|
![]() Quote:
![]() Quote:
since it looks like u want to run dual gtx 275 cards in sli which run at over 200w tdp *each*, momaka's advice still holds true. u better ensure active cooling on the nb, sb and vrm. try to ghetto mount some 50-70mm fans around the area and make sure the case is adequately ventilated with lots of case fans. i'd imagine your computer should sound like a boeing 787 dreamliner taking off! ![]() Quote:
![]() not only that, many of those small fans of 40mm and smaller are just plain crappy and dont last for some reason... ah well... thats electronics for u lol! |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | ||
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Quote:
![]() I've got several BNIB of the special blower fans Asus made to fit their cooling system; although I'm planning on modding a 240mm AIO to fit the 939 bolt holes and mounting a 120mm over the block/VRM area to push air around there. The first gen (2000) Lian-Li PC-60 its going in has been modded to have two 80mm exhausts above the I/O. Quote:
![]() ![]() Always amazing to look back and see how far we've come. It was always so hard to deal with this kind of thermal load in those days, needing weird esoteric (noisy!) parts that are now just off-the-shelf. The only bummer is this board is one generation too old to have 4-pin PWM fan control, although the CPU header is good for 2 amps which is a pretty hefty fan. |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Success #1: no smoke!
Success #2: It posts. No dramas. Opteron 175 and 4x1GB DDR400 all recognised fine. Memtests fine. Success #3: two cards, a 640 and a 610 (both bus powered) are recognised and negotiate x16 lanes each. Success #4: Runs furmark on the 640 all night long. Failure #1: Socket 939 chips don't support anything newer than Win 8.0. Success #5: found my Windows XP x64 deployment image, phew! Failure #2: 3Dmark06 on graphics looping as my favourite 3D stress test locks the system up after 3ish hours. Unsure as to exactly why. Next on the docket: nick the matching GTX770's out of their systems and LOL test them in SLI. Find the Windows 7 x64 deployment image. Prime load it for 24 hours. Find the 939 hold-down kit for the Corsair H100 AIO cooler and clock the balls off it. Play Battlefield 1942 or Medal of Honour... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
SNES-powered
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Romania
My Country: Bacau
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,008
|
![]() Quote:
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 | |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Quote:
![]() Success #6: both onboard ethernet NICs link and pass traffic at 1Gbps (well, most of 1G, I'm CPU limited). Running benchies now with the first GTX770. Gah, I'm horribly CPU limited. Less than half the score this card gets in its hexacore 1366 Xeon @ 4.6Ghz normal home :p |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Unexpected hiccup. NF4SLI is 2005ish? GTX770's are 2013ish? Seems that NV have dropped support for SLI'ing them on such an old platform, at least under XP x64. Time to find that Win7 disc and see if anyone knows when NF4 is/was dropped from the SLI approved listings.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 | ||
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 9,097
|
![]() Quote:
![]() As for failure #1: I wouldn't call that a failure. I would call it a HUGE SUCCESS! - Anything that refuses to run Windows 8/10 is GOOD in my eyes ![]() LOL! You're not too far from the truth, really. ![]() Quote:
Thus, what I have figured (as I like to play with retro systems like these as well) is that it's best to stick with era-appropriate hardware. For that s939 platform, something like the GeForce 8800 GT or 9800 GT or Radeon HD3870 is where I would stop. Anything beyond that, I don't think you will see much added benefit. A pair of GeForce 7800 GTX cards in SLI would have been a dream-machine back then. If you look around / wait patiently on eBay, sometimes they popup for less than $10 a piece. ![]() BTW, what CPU did you end up putting in that motherboard? (Can't see it being mentioned anywhere... or perhaps I am blind? ![]() Last edited by momaka; 01-19-2019 at 05:54 PM.. |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 | ||
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
City & State: Adelaide, South Australia
My Country: Australia
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 19
|
![]() Quote:
Quote:
The GTX770's are just because I happen to have two of them laying about in other machines... Opteron 175. 2.2Ghz of dual core heat production ![]() Now to crack on with rolling the Win7 image to see if that does any better with SLI ... or SLI hax ![]() Scored 1 lightly used Corsair HX620 off Gumtree for $10 yesterday. Five in the stable now... ![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|