I bought this Vizio E55-C2 yesterday with the complaint of completely dead, will not power on, no initial power light that trails off when plugged in. The complaint is confirmed.
The 120V protection fuse is good. The first thing I checked was main cap voltage, always at 385V. Other voltages found on the power board look like the TV is trying to tell me it's partially on? Here they are:
Main cap…….385v stable
1: 5VSB……….5.05v stable
2: 5VSB……….5.05v stable
3: ACD…………3.3v stable
4: PS_ON…….3.3v stable
5: GND………..18 ohms according to my meter
6: GND………..16 ohms according to my meter
7: 12V………….12.11v stable
8: 12V………….12.11v stable
9: GND……….. .018ohms
10: GND……… .013ohms
11: 12V………..12.11v stable
12: 12V………..12.11v stable
13-15: nc
The 20V rail is dead on all pins, plugged in to the main board or not. The grounds are good. The power board has an output rating for 20V printed on it so it must come from the power board?
I accidentally plugged the 20v connector back in while the unit was plugged up to the wall. I got an arc flash on one of the ground pins when I plugged it in, a pretty good one too. See the black spot on pin 8 and the connector body?
Also, I checked for PS_ON voltage change at the main board connector for the power button. Voltage drops from 3.3v to 0v when the button is pressed. I also checked for remote response by testing for voltage at the IR sensor board test points. The voltage does drop to different levels depending on what button is pressed on the remote. There is no voltage change at the power board when the power or on buttons are pressed on the TV or remote.
I pulled the power board, tested components in the 20V circuit and I see oddball readings, like diode test readings of .170. I saw readings like this on my LG 60PB6650 Y-sustain and found shorted MOSFETS.
The processor on the main board is warm to the touch when plugged in.
I see some things here that tell me both the main and power boards have problems. I was wondering if anyone can confirm this or maybe point me in a diagnostic direction from here?
Thanks everyone!
The 120V protection fuse is good. The first thing I checked was main cap voltage, always at 385V. Other voltages found on the power board look like the TV is trying to tell me it's partially on? Here they are:
Main cap…….385v stable
1: 5VSB……….5.05v stable
2: 5VSB……….5.05v stable
3: ACD…………3.3v stable
4: PS_ON…….3.3v stable
5: GND………..18 ohms according to my meter
6: GND………..16 ohms according to my meter
7: 12V………….12.11v stable
8: 12V………….12.11v stable
9: GND……….. .018ohms
10: GND……… .013ohms
11: 12V………..12.11v stable
12: 12V………..12.11v stable
13-15: nc
The 20V rail is dead on all pins, plugged in to the main board or not. The grounds are good. The power board has an output rating for 20V printed on it so it must come from the power board?
I accidentally plugged the 20v connector back in while the unit was plugged up to the wall. I got an arc flash on one of the ground pins when I plugged it in, a pretty good one too. See the black spot on pin 8 and the connector body?
Also, I checked for PS_ON voltage change at the main board connector for the power button. Voltage drops from 3.3v to 0v when the button is pressed. I also checked for remote response by testing for voltage at the IR sensor board test points. The voltage does drop to different levels depending on what button is pressed on the remote. There is no voltage change at the power board when the power or on buttons are pressed on the TV or remote.
I pulled the power board, tested components in the 20V circuit and I see oddball readings, like diode test readings of .170. I saw readings like this on my LG 60PB6650 Y-sustain and found shorted MOSFETS.
The processor on the main board is warm to the touch when plugged in.
I see some things here that tell me both the main and power boards have problems. I was wondering if anyone can confirm this or maybe point me in a diagnostic direction from here?
Thanks everyone!
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