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    Anker USB charger Part no

    Hi Folks
    My Anker 6 port USB charger stopped working. There was no signs of life. so i opened up (they make it real difficult to open) .Anyways on opening and looking around for long the following are the conclusions
    1. The AC plug socket on the motherboard was knocked of the board.. But this could be a result of my using brute force to open the adapter. But the fact that the socket came clean off the board would indicate a possible cold solder joint.
    2. The fuse next to the AC adapter was blown.
    3. Knowing the fuse was only a symptom and not the cause. I looked further and found a damaged diode(Diode D1). The diode was in line with the 0,33uf X2 capacitor.

    No my problem is i cant identify the damaged diode. There is another diode next to it and is marked as A7. I am assuming that the damaged diode is also an A7. Problem is i cant seem to find this A7 diode in any store here. So i need the following help
    1. Does anyone know alternatives for the A7 Diode. I cant find it in any of the stores here. The data sheet for the A7 Diode is here.
    2. Do you see any other issue with the board

    There is a possibility that the diode D1 was also damaged when i tried to open the charger. I guess this because the diode is showing physical damage and not burn damage. So i am going to replace the fuse and the diode and then see what happens.

    So please advise if anyone knows the alternative for the A7 diode. Also if you can see any obvious issues with the board
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Anker USB charger Part no

    What part does the mid-point of D1, D2 connect to? The trace goes to R8+R18 to do something weird, zero-cross detect for the SMPS IC?
    If it's a MOV, then I think D1, D2 are bidirectional TVS for surge protection. Something like SMBJ170CA?

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Anker USB charger Part no

      Originally posted by redwire View Post
      What part does the mid-point of D1, D2 connect to? The trace goes to R8+R18 to do something weird, zero-cross detect for the SMPS IC?
      If it's a MOV, then I think D1, D2 are bidirectional TVS for surge protection. Something like SMBJ170CA?
      Its a jumper which then goes to R8

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Anker USB charger Part no

        Since R8 and R18 connected in series, at 20K you will not have enough current flowing through the diode to cause that kind of damage.
        I also do not see any sign carbon or burnt around the diode, more likely you have short circuit somewhere else that caused main fuse to blow.
        You should test the bridge rectifier, MOSFET. Get the P/N of the SMPS IC so you can look up the spec sheet, see attached picture.
        So do both diodes tested bad?
        Attached Files
        Last edited by budm; 08-15-2020, 10:14 PM.
        Never stop learning
        Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

        Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

        Inverter testing using old CFL:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

        Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
        http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

        TV Factory reset codes listing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Anker USB charger Part no

          Originally posted by budm View Post
          Since R8 and R18 connected in series, at 20K you will not have enough current flowing through the diode to cause that kind of damage.
          I also do not see any sign carbon or burnt around the diode, more likely you have short circuit somewhere else that caused main fuse to blow.
          You should test the bridge rectifier, MOSFET. Get the P/N of the SMPS IC so you can look up the spec sheet, see attached picture.
          So do both diodes tested bad?
          Ok so i disassembled the board a little more. The MOSFET is a JCS15N60FH. I removed it from the board and can see some goey stuff coming out of it, ,not sure if it indicates damage or its normal. The SMPS IC is a HFC0500.

          How do i test the MOSFET?

          Also if i have to replace the MOSFET can i replace it with this one FCP190N65S3R0 - Refer Datasheet
          Attached Files

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Anker USB charger Part no

            https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...9&d=1597559804
            That is heatsink compound, you can test in on board to see if the Source and Drain pins are shorted together, if it tested bad on the board then you remove it ans re-test it again.
            If you look at the picture, the Left pin is GATE, Middle pin is Drain, Right pin is Source; so just check the resistance between Source and Drain pin to see if it shows really low Ohms reading, just measure it and report back.
            Never stop learning
            Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

            Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

            Inverter testing using old CFL:
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

            Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
            http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

            TV Factory reset codes listing:
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Anker USB charger Part no

              From the datasheet, D1 D2 would be two 1A 1000V rectifier diodes supplying the start-up circuit. A7 is 1N4007W, or M7 as SMD4007. S1M or RS1M would also work in SMA package.

              It's strange- the diodes have no way to blow up really with the 20k resistor in series, unless both shorted due to mains overvoltage spike?
              Attached Files
              Last edited by redwire; 08-16-2020, 01:30 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                Originally posted by budm View Post
                https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...9&d=1597559804
                That is heatsink compound, you can test in on board to see if the Source and Drain pins are shorted together, if it tested bad on the board then you remove it ans re-test it again.
                If you look at the picture, the Left pin is GATE, Middle pin is Drain, Right pin is Source; so just check the resistance between Source and Drain pin to see if it shows really low Ohms reading, just measure it and report back.
                Thanks. resistance between Source and drain is open. No resistance value measurable.

                How do i check the bridge rectifier. I checked the resistance between the 2 AC points and its open. Also checked the resistance between the DC points again its open.

                I noticed one more thing Capacitance C20. it looks mangled. not sure if it is supposed to be like or just a short across. The resistance across it is open. Refer attached image of that area
                Attached Files

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                  C20 is one of the filter cap for SMPS IC VCC, it will be 0.1uF 25V or more, MLC (Multi Layer Ceramic) type cap as shown in application schematic in post #7, it needs to be replaced.
                  Are the damaged diode and C20 close to where you pry open the case?.
                  Did you check both diodes to see if they are shorted out?
                  Last edited by budm; 08-16-2020, 01:58 AM.
                  Never stop learning
                  Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                  Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                  Inverter testing using old CFL:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                  Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                  http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                  TV Factory reset codes listing:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                    Originally posted by redwire View Post
                    From the datasheet, D1 D2 would be two 1A 1000V rectifier diodes supplying the start-up circuit. A7 is 1N4007W, or M7 as SMD4007. S1M or RS1M would also work in SMA package.

                    It's strange- the diodes have no way to blow up really with the 20k resistor in series, unless both shorted due to mains overvoltage spike?
                    Yes unfortunately they are in the same line of the plastic case opening points where i had to apply brute force.

                    The resistance across each diode is open in one direction and almost 1.8Mohms in the other direction. So i am guessing the diodes are fine.
                    Last edited by jinu_j; 08-16-2020, 02:25 AM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                      Originally posted by redwire View Post
                      From the datasheet, D1 D2 would be two 1A 1000V rectifier diodes supplying the start-up circuit. A7 is 1N4007W, or M7 as SMD4007. S1M or RS1M would also work in SMA package.

                      It's strange- the diodes have no way to blow up really with the 20k resistor in series, unless both shorted due to mains overvoltage spike?

                      You r right.. The diode was damaged due to my over enthusiastic attempts to open the case. Now looks like i took out C20 capacitor also. Finally MOSFET seems to be fine diodes seem to be fine. well looks like i have to first replace what i damaged and then see if the fuse still blows. Could be as simple as a power surge taking out the fuse.. lets hope so.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                        Sorry about so many posts. But found a way to test the MOSFET-JCS15N60FH (something from youtube). So i Tested as follows:

                        Test 1 - Pass
                        1. Kept the negative of multimeter on Drain and positive on source. The multimeter shows a connection. Voltage reading of about -0.5V

                        Test 2 - Pass
                        1. Kept the negative of multimeter on Source and positive on Drain. The multimeter shows a Open connection.

                        Test 3 - Fail
                        1. Kept the negative of multimeter on Source and positive on Gate. This is supposed to trigger the MOSFET. Then moved the positve of multimeter to the Drain. The multimeter still shows a Open connection or MOSFET still off. This is supposed to show an ON Mosfet

                        So basis the above test is the MOSFET spoilt ?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                          The questing is why the main AC fuse blown, the MOSFET is not shorted, the rectifier is not shorted as tested, but as you said, it can be due to power surge.
                          The MOSFET may not turn on using that test method if the meter puts out <3V and also if the Gate did not stay charged long enough to keep the MOSFET on when you move the probe over to S and D
                          https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/973861...S/JCS15N60FH/1
                          Never stop learning
                          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                          Inverter testing using old CFL:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                          TV Factory reset codes listing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                            Originally posted by budm View Post
                            The questing is why the main AC fuse blown, the MOSFET is not shorted, the rectifier is not shorted as tested, but as you said, it can be due to power surge.
                            The MOSFET may not turn on using that test method if the meter puts out <3V and also if the Gate did not stay charged long enough to keep the MOSFET on when you move the probe over to S and D
                            https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/973861...S/JCS15N60FH/1
                            You are correct. I applied an external voltage of 5 volts to the gate and voila MOSFET turned on. So atleast for now it looks like a simple fuse replacement. which was made double difficult because of the damage caused by brute force opening of case. I dont understand... why dont they just use screws to close the case instead of putting a sealent that requires such force to open.

                            Now wait for the parts to come. Will keep post updated.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                              Originally posted by jinu_j View Post
                              You are correct. I applied an external voltage of 5 volts to the gate and voila MOSFET turned on. So atleast for now it looks like a simple fuse replacement. which was made double difficult because of the damage caused by brute force opening of case. I dont understand... why dont they just use screws to close the case instead of putting a sealent that requires such force to open.

                              Now wait for the parts to come. Will keep post updated.
                              They do not want you to fix it, they make more money selling you a new one.
                              Never stop learning
                              Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                              Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                              Inverter testing using old CFL:
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                              Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                              http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                              TV Factory reset codes listing:
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Anker USB charger Part no

                                Interesting, looks like they changed the design. My anker chargers aren't fused on the hot side (IIRC), but each USB port is fused individually. They would inevitably blow, I had to replace them with resettable fuses, and they have been working like champs for years.

                                Comment

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