Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

[fusion450]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Alrighty, i'm back at home. Was using cell phone.

slot c105 is 0725 (M)105°C
slot c317, c316, c111, c114, c112 is capXon 820uf25v
slot c113 is GL105°C p727 Vent
slot c118 is GL 105°C c725
slot c107 is 47uf50v capXon
slot c318 is 22uf50v c729 105°C

[Phil.]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi,
at first I'd like to say sorry for my bad English - I'm from Germany, but I'll try my very best

In my free time, I try to fix TFTs which I get from different people - mostly ones with blown caps.
In my last "TFT surprise box" was a Samsung 226BW, too - with the description "doesn't work". I plugged it in - not any problem visible. But then i set it up on my desk, worked an few minutes on it and it started flickering as hell.

Ok, that might be the common cap problem - so I ordered new caps, except the big 150uF/450V one. Unfortunately, only the 680 and 330uF-ones were 105°-rated ones - but anyway, I soldered them in.
But: The problem is still there - after a "cold start" everything works fine, but after a few minutes, the CCFLs start flickering and finally stop working - the image is still visible, but very pale.

I disassembled the monitor and checked the CCFLs - it is nothing special visible, they aren't broken or black or anything like that. And in fact, they do work properly - for the first few minutes.

So, I ordered now a new load of caps - the Panasonic FC ones, all 105° rated and this time even the 100uF-cap - here in Germany its not that easy to get one of those for a reasonable price (under 10 euros...)

What would be the next step, if the new caps don't change anything?
I'll check the voltage at the return lines and the IC mentioned on page 3; the resistances (post 88) are 1100 and 1096 ohms.

Greetings
Phil

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

What would be the next step, if the new caps don't change anything?

Your english is very good.

It is much better than the people who don't use punctuation, paragraphs, or capitalization. For those threads, I hit close window and move onto helping others.

For problems like this, I like doing before and after measurements.

Before
====

1) When the lcd is working properly, measure all the DC voltages on the pin connectors. This is your reference. Write them down.

2) On the main board, measure the DC voltage of all the voltage regulators.

3) On the power board, CAREFULLY measure the DC voltage across the big capacitor. If it is working, the DC voltage will be close to 400V DC.

After
===

4) When the ccfls go out, repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 above and compare. You may be able to spot the difference. Pay attention if any of the voltages are fluctuating or not.

[dslyecix]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi everyone. Made this account a year ago to deal with this monitor and just recently remembered about it and stumbled back onto this forum! I have a bit of a problem...

I ordered a repair kit from this website (http://lcdalternatives.com/Repair-Ki...-P2001206.aspx). Kind of stupid I know since I could maybe have ordred the individual capacitors and picked up a soldering iron for just as cheap but whatever. It has all arrived and didnt cost me much at all.

My board looks exactly like this: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1256466308

Today I replaced the three clustered 820uF capacitors, as they were the only ones that were bulging. No other capacitors show any sign of being popped out.

I did a pretty crappy soldering job the first time (ever, actually), http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...1/IMG_0472.jpg
and after I quickly turned it on and saw it wasn't working, I redid the job and tried again. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...1/IMG_0469.jpg

Unfortunately this has yet to fix it...

Im not sure if there are any other known problems I can look at to try to fix this. Should I replace all the capacitors just in case? Is my current solder job just not good enough? I don't really have much knowledge or equipment in the electronics field... I can't measure voltages or anything like that, and i'd like to avoid buying a whole slew of equipment I won't need to use again :p.

[budm]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Remember one thing, bad cap can look normal, it can have high ESR, that is why you replace the cap as a set.

[dslyecix]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Ah, I did not actually know that. I'll replace the rest of them as soon as I'm home from work!

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Not a lot of use us looking at someone elses board!

We can help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.

Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1290283049

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246

edit

the link you gave for the capkit was to a 216bw - have you got the correct one is your monitor a 216 or a 226

edit2
Would also help if you said what was wrong with the monitor and what happens from when you plug in and turn on lights sounds etc

edit3
Just read you dont have a meter - I doubt if we can be much help
without one 5 or 6$ one will do.

[dslyecix]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Good eye on that one, I have a 216BW and posted in the wrong thread, sorry! I'm just going to assume this is ok to continue with for now?

I will make a better post once I get the new capacitors on.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Good eye on that one, I have a 216BW and posted in the wrong thread, sorry! I'm just going to assume this is ok to continue with for now?

No. Start your own thread.

[reetp]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi,

excellent forum. Think I read it a number of years ago when looking for a solution to a BE6II with dodgy caps.

Anyway, I have a Syncmaster 226BW with the flickering screen syndrome.

I just wanted to check whether I was buying the right caps.....

The CapXon spec (from the specs I downloaded here) seems to be :

820 x 25v
10x25
Ripple 1910
Impedance .035 / .1015

I have found the following and wondered which would be the best to use ? :

http://es.farnell.com/panasonic/eeuf...25v/dp/9692185
Ripple 1440
Impedance .045

http://es.farnell.com/panasonic/eeuf...0uf/dp/1855218
Ripple 2600
Impedance .018

http://es.farnell.com/panasonic/eeuf...0uf/dp/1800653
Ripple 2180
Impedance .02

My guess is the FR or FM but all advice appreciated - the FC seems to have a low ripple.

B. Rgds
John

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

The FR is closest in specs.

[reetp]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

The FR is closest in specs.

Thanks for that.

Just opened it up and as per my suspicions the 2 x 820uF and the 1 x 330uF are all shot.

Will go shopping now.

B. Rgds
John

[226BWytics]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hello there,

Firstly i'd like to thank all who contributed to this thread since it is what got my butt moving towards fixing the damned 226bw.

I use the 226bw as a second monitor and the problem is that the screen stays black, with the power on and the led blinking. I found a work around which consisted in adding and removing the 226bw from my display configuration. I had to do this for around 10 min non stop (frustrating) and then the screen would turn on just for 2 seconds and off again. After this it always always always took only 2 more display configurations for the screen to work properly... weird. I eventually got tired of this solution and found this forum and thread and i took apart my monitor to discover there where 4 bulging caps : 3x 820uF and 1x 330uF.

As recommend in the forum ive decided to replace all the CapXon caps ( except the big C105) and i would love if someone could check that what im about to order makes sense. My actual caps are :

C111, C112, C114, C316 & C317 : 820uF 25v GL105c C727 Vent 10mmx20mm, Ripple = 1280 mA, ESR = 0.052 ohms

C113 : 330uF 25v GL105c P727 Vent 10mmx12.5mm, Ripple = 720 mA, ESR = 0.082 ohms

C107 : 47uF 50v KM105c P723 Vent 6.3mmx11mm, Ripple = 90 mA, ESR = ? ohms

C318 : 22uF 50v GL105c C722 Vent 6.3mmx11mm, Ripple = 135 mA, ESR = 1 ohms

C118 : 2.2uF 50v GL105c C727 Vent 5mmx11mm, Ripple = 33 mA, ESR = 2.60 ohms

and im planning on replacing them with the next order from the spanish rs-online:

C111, C112, C114, C316 & C317 : Panasonic FK 820uF 25v 12.5mmx15mm , Ripple = 1400 mA, ESR = 0.048 ohms (571-408) EEUFK1E821S

C113 : Nichicon BT 330uF 25Vdc 10mmx16mm, Ripple = 945 mA, ESR = 0.075 ohms (715-1559) UBT1E331MPD

C107 : Panasonic NHG 47uF 50v 6.3mmx12mm, Ripple = 110 mA, ESR = 0.12 ohms (365-4278) ECA1HHG470

C318 : Rubycon YXF 22 uF 50V 5mmx11mm, Ripple = 150 mA, ESR = 0.9 ohms (224-4331) 50YXF22M5X11 or
Panasonic FM 22 uF 50V 5mmx11mm, Ripple = 250 mA, ESR = 0.3 ohms (526-1654) EEUFM1H220

C118 : Rubycon YXF 2.2uF 50V 5mmx11mm, Ripple = 43 mA, ESR = 2.5 ohms (224-4296) 50YXF2.2M5X11 or
Panasonic FC 2.2uF 50V 5mmx11mm, Ripple = 45 mA, ESR = 1.8 ohms (572-439) EEUFC1H2R2

For the C318 and C118 i dont know if its better to have more ripple in favor of less ESR or its best to keep both values as equivalent as possible to the original cap.

I hope i didnt mess up the selection much. Thank you in advance.

Best regards.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

For the C318 and C118 i dont know if its better to have more ripple in favor of less ESR or its best to keep both values as equivalent as possible to the original cap.

1) Thanks for doing some homework and research.

2) For the above, both choices are excellent. Many regulars here favour Panasonic, but the Rubycons are also excellent choices. I use both interchangeably.

3) As for your answer about ripple/ESR, see PCBONEZ discuss it here at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...30&postcount=7

[226BWytics]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Thanks for pointing that post out.

If i got everything right i think im going to go with the Rubycon in both cases, since the Panasonic C318 surpasses in more than 30% the reduction in ESR from the original cap and the C118 equals it. I prefer to go the safe way, to prevent the exception PCBONEZ was talking about. Unless i miss understood something i think im ready to order!

[Dougmeister]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi. I have a 225BW. Is it okay to ask in this thread or should I post elsewhere?

I replaced (3) 330 uF and (2) 880 uF caps. I connected it while it was "taken apart" and it worked!

But alas, my joy was short-lived. I put it back together, and the same problems happen ("analog" for a second, then black).

I took it apart, checked the connections, plugged it in again (while "apart"), and it worked. Put it back together again... didn't work.

What can I be missing?

Thanks.

[budm]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

May be the pins of the components on the bottom side of the board are shorting to the chassis?

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi. I have a 225BW. Is it okay to ask in this thread or should I post elsewhere?

Considering the number of threads on the 225BW I cant understand why you would post in this thread? - post it in one of those in case it becomes drawn out - as budm says have you cut the legs short enough.

[Dougmeister]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Thanks for the advice. I will disassemble it again tonight and check the length of the legs.

Sorry about the post. Mods, please delete these if possible.

[uRdoomd]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I've had the 226BW for quite a few years now and it's been dead for most of them (shortly after a year of purchase). I never checked for warranty because I lost the reciept (probably thrown out). I never wanted to throw it out just yet because I wanted to get it fixed. Before I took it in to get it fixed it was just a blinking power LED with no display. Now it is just dead, with no LED at all now. I thought about taking it back but they're obviously using inferior parts.

First: would it even be worth trying to fix this myself?

Second: I'm a noob with repairing electronics (as in I've never done it before) so I don't understand the terminology and I don't know what I'm looking for. I've read through quite a few posts (but not all) on this thread but none that I've seen really explain what types of caps to use. I get the ratings and such, just don't know what types of caps I should be looking for. I haven't looked at the board yet so I don't know which caps are good and which ones aren't yet either. If someone could explain the different types of caps and their advantages/disadvantages or why I should be using one over another etc. would be appreciated.

Third: Since I've previously taken this in to get it fixed, if those caps are dead, is there a link to a diagram or photo which would tell me the ratings/types/sizes/etc. of caps that were there originally?

Fourth: Since there is no power going to the power LED, does that mean there are probably fuses dead too? How can I tell and is the process to replace them the same as caps or is it more or less complicated?

If anyone can answer any of these for me, I would really appreciate any/all the help you can give me

If I can get the monitor opened up soon I'll repost with my findings if I need additional support

Thanks in advance