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#1 |
B87
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Grovetown, GA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 13
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![]() Hi all, I have a Samsung PN43D490A1D Plasma. Shut off randomly one day. Does the standard clicking but of course no bad caps. My first thought is X Main but want to ensure I'm not just taking $90 stabs at this thing. I have soldering tools, multimeter, and most common tools at my disposal but don't know a ton about circuitry. Pictures are below. Please help me take a smart organized approach to this troubleshooting.
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
City & State: Lompoc CA
My Country: US
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 24
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![]() First Go To Randtek in forum. open his link in forum called Trouble shooting Plasma TV by Tom66. Tom66 has links to get service manuals for Plasma TVs. They have all the information you might need. I have read most of there links and they are true blue TV Veterans. I would be lost with out them. I hope you get your set up and running soon.
your second picture has the power supply voltage listed and you can find key location on power supply board to test them but first get a service manual for TV. Thanks and good luck, hope you are eating popcorn soon. |
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#3 |
B87
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Grovetown, GA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 13
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![]() Thanks jhd2112! I have downloaded the fast track manual and followed. I am getting .020 volts on my STBY Pin at startup...as the TV clicks it jumps a bit but never the same amount...I'm afraid it may not be enough time between the power cycling to get a voltage.
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#4 |
B87
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Grovetown, GA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 13
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![]() Activating Power and Logic Board Test Patterns with Jumper resulted in faster double clicking 3 times. Click Click, pause, Click Click, pause, Click Click, nothing...Still nothing on screen.
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#5 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2014
City & State: Kirkland Wa.
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,177
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![]() Disconnect the X board from the SMPS (power supply) and see if the unit powers on.
Last edited by Shinju; 03-04-2015 at 01:18 PM.. |
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#6 |
B87
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Grovetown, GA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 13
|
![]() I have disconnected both X and Y from the board to isolate them and the unit stops the clicking. However, according to Tom66 reference troubleshooting fast track guide this is normal because the SMPS actually will not even allow power through without the X and Y connected on the 2010 and 2011 models. Also unfortunately this unit doesn't have a startup chime to be able to tell if audio is on or not.
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#7 |
B87
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Grovetown, GA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 13
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![]() Ok so did a continuity test I found on Just Answer and here it is...X Main connected to Y main. Test continuity from Vs to GND on Connecter from Y main to X Main at X Main. Showed a short. Remove Connector going to X main. Test Again...OK. Went to X Main. Removed board from TV. Test from VS pin to GND pin on incoming connector with everything removed. Short. My guess is bad X Main.. What's everyone's thoughts? Seems logical to me but just want to be sure...Any other tests I can perform to check if another component is frying the X Main? Any way to repair the X Main?
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#8 |
B87
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Grovetown, GA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 13
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![]() Got my X Main in today. Connected it up and clicking has stopped. Now the red led just blinks. No power, no sounds, nothing. Red Led blinks double blinking 5 times and then solid. Repeats this indefinitely.
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#9 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
City & State: winona, mn
My Country: usa
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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![]() the connector in pic 2 is not fully seated. . .two of the caps on pic three look alittle puffy as with few in six. cant see the ones on the ps well. you should esr test or replace all of them.
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#10 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Federal Way,WA
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,329
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![]() Quote:
Like I always suggest with this era of Samsung plasma, I'd pull both the Y-main and X-main boards then check the components on the heat sinks for shorts.
__________________
LG Plasma Mal-Discharge Correction Service |
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#11 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
City & State: winona, mn
My Country: usa
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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![]() regretted posting. i should be asking advice not trying to give it. thank you for correcting me capkid.
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#12 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Federal Way,WA
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,329
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#13 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2013
City & State: darlaston
My Country: england
Line Voltage: 230
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 1,542
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![]() Quote:
We all start somewhere hence my Forum Name lol and we all feel when we start to try helping when we receive help. Don't worry about it... You will pick things up from making errors as generally one of us will notify you of what is right and wrong. If I am not sure I will say so though as I don't want anyone to do something wrong on my say so. |
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#14 | |
B87
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Grovetown, GA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 13
|
![]() Quote:
Not home today and TV has been sitting for a while. Last status update was X -Main replaced. Software updated. Now TV will randomly shut off and give me red blinking LEDs for a while. Powers up an hour or two later. On a road trip today and tomorrow. I will pull Y-Main when I get home. How do I test heat sink components? Testing for shorts or continuity between components? Thanks everyone for the help! |
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#15 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Nuneaton Warwickshire
My Country: uk
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 6,369
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![]() re solder all joints on transistors etc that are fixed on the heat sinks on the power supply they have been known to crack causing these sorts of faults i would re solder all of them even if they look good.
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