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Old 11-16-2018, 08:14 AM   #1
MJ-meo-dmt
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Default Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Hi Guys.

I have a ECU board here... According to the Mechanic, the motor is being over fueled... I saw the injectors pulse while cranking the engine. Which seemed fine to me but anyways. I just need some help if possible to find details on some parts.

Attached are photos with the first number on the chip.

These I assume based on various searches on the net... hence the thread here...

Bosch System [0 261 206 916]

30358 = Seems to be the ECU Driver
30311 = No idea
30023 = Ignition Drivers
30313 = Fuel system / Injector Driver

I haven't really ever found any datasheets regarding these Bosch chips... and ofc no schematics/diagrams for these ecu's
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 30023.JPG (86.7 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 30311.JPG (104.5 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 30313.JPG (92.3 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 30358.JPG (91.7 KB, 14 views)
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:58 AM   #2
sam_sam_sam
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Now do you have a spark going the spark plug if you do is it strong or is a week one

I would check this first or dose the engine runs but dies because of to much fuel that will make a difference to what could be wrong with it

You might have a hard time finding the parts for it because if like something that I repair some parts proprietary and can only be sold to the company that made it

Or the number that are on the IC chip could be a in house number and good luck finding out what it is

You might be better off if you can find the parts to find a used one on eBay or other side that sell all kind of thing

and use your erom chip out of your ECU just make sure that the numbers that are on your ECU housing cover match the one you are buying this is a must if you go this route make sure that before you change erom chip that the board numbers are the even to the point of the rev number

Now if you have an idea of what the chip might be look up that number and see if the chip is used the way it is used on your ECU of chorus this is the hard way to do it


I do not recognize the logos on any of those chips

Now somebody on this forum might know the company that it belongs
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Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 11-19-2018 at 12:36 PM..
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Old 11-20-2018, 03:25 AM   #3
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Hey @sam sam sam

Thanks for taking the time...

Yeah I forgot to update here. Turns out there aren't any comms with the ecu. (Diagnostics can't connect to the ecu.)

Which tells me this wern't ever a fueling issue....

Anyways I found some info on another forum and that forum focuses on ECU related things so I think from here on I'll post there for those type of issues and the rest of my circuit repairs I'll do here.

Thanks tho.
Enjoy
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Old 11-20-2018, 05:15 AM   #4
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Do you have a ECU fault reader to read the error codes so you can maybe figure out what wrong with your Ford and go from there
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Old 11-20-2018, 05:25 AM   #5
MJ-meo-dmt
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Hi. No Codes. Basically No communication with ECU from Diagnostic Tool...

In the process of checking the circuit. Seems like a power issue
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:14 AM   #6
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

is it obd2 ?
have you tried a different scanner ?
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:25 AM   #7
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Hey Petehall347 yeah they have.
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:49 AM   #8
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

so the scanner is getting power from obd2 port yes ?
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Old 11-21-2018, 12:46 AM   #9
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Yeah the scanner gets 12V also inside the ECU there is 12V at various places. There are also 2V-5V on various pins on the CPU and other controllers... I didn't have enough time to full test/probe and check everything I wanted....

Some background info. The client has two identical bantams one which we have been discussing lets call it from here on NR. 1 started with this no start issue just randomly.

The other bantam from here on lets call it NR. 2 has the exact same ECU and they went and re-did the Key coding and when they tried it, exactly the same thing... But here is the extra info they found out afterwards that NR. 2 stood in the rain with no windshield... So the ECU got soaked.

So the day I received NR. 1 I was told its not getting fuel. From the client
From the Mechanic later the same day He brought NR. 2 and said maybe I can make one work from the two. And then added that he thinks NR. 1 is giving too much fuel.... Confusing I know.... At that time he explained what they did with NR. 2 and also that it got soaked. They tried it while the pins still had corrosion on it

I then dumped both IMMO/Key eeproms and looked at them in HEXedit... saw that they were very very different. I assumed they would have some part which would be exactly the same at least for the "code" part they weren't. I know other things could affect it but anyways I swapped them. I swapped NR. 1 IMMO eeprom onto NR. 2 and when we tested that it sounded better, like it wanted to start... But still no start.

The mechanic then added that both ECU's had no communication with the OBD2 Devices. And that they did the key coding and they did try the NR.2 before with the same result. So now I'm here wondering WTF is the actual issue here....

So I hope the above make sense.... Either way what I have at the moment is I think that maybe when they tried NR. 2 with the still dirty pins in the connector, it failed because of poor connections? And now I'm going to put the IMMO dump back which they claim they redid. And then see what happens...

If that doesn't work I have narrowed some chips down which I believe could be suspect. Like a Transistor/or/Fet that is hooked up to the pins that got the worse corrosion.... It may have damaged something on that component. Otherwise the Main supply chip for the ECU PCB.

Which brings me to another point, I have found some schematics for a ME7.1 Bosch ECU. I also have that same type ECU here (broken, donor board) and that has given me some real insight the last day or so to try and semi reverse engineer / understand these ecu layouts. I have to say that the NR.1 and NR.2 ECU's are also bosch and the over all placement and layout of the boards are very very very similar. Even tho they differ a bit, all 3 are Motronic as well... BTW Willing to share what I find here if anyone's interested.

Attached is a sample of the CJ910 chip which seems to handle the Boards supply voltages for the CPU and controllers. (This is from a ME7.1 Bosch ECU. Similar to the one I'm working on, cross reference is not to difficult here...)
Attached Images
File Type: png ECU_ME7.1_30343_IC_Scheme.PNG (158.2 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by MJ-meo-dmt; 11-21-2018 at 12:51 AM..
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Old 11-23-2018, 05:12 AM   #10
MJ-meo-dmt
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Okay so just to finalize this issue.

About the chips on this Bosch M1.5.4. After a few days of insane research/reading I gathered a lot of info... Learned a shit ton of stuff as well.

Reviewing those chips
30358 = 5V supply and output for 5V ref circuit to sensors. May handle digital ground as well.

30311 = Sensor signal converter / Controller. (Various if not all Sensors)
30023 = Ignition Coil Driver
30313 = Fuel system / Injector Driver

Also discovered various other chips that do other things.

Anyways. Further testing in/on the car.
Still no start. Injectors Pulse, Spark is Good, Fuel is Good.
I get 5V ref on all top sensors that had easy access. So that tells me that at least the ECU isn't dead or I guess its possible to be half dead. Though. Immobilizer works as normal, Injectors Pulse, Ignition Coils Fire, Main Relay gets switched which to me is all things the ECU Controls so I lean towards the ECU being OKAY.

I back probed a few important pins. (To mention its hard to probe this ECU while its plugged in, it sits on the passenger side half inside the dash....)
So I found that the Crank Sensor input to the ECU seems to be none null. aka nothing. The mechanic says they tried another, both infact crank and cam sensors... Anyways so I told him that he needs to get a guy to check the loom. Because I don't think there is anything wrong with the Computer (ECU)

Added info why I'm not checking the loom. I only received the ECU and I can't start fiddling with the Car because its not my Job or its not my place to start doing other things... Which is hard :P I found myself a few times digging to check for signals... I guess I could tell the guy(mechanic) if he wants I can go over the weekend with all my tools and then go through everything, at a charge ofc... but yeah just so you guys know why I can't tinker with anything else but the ECU.
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Old 11-23-2018, 05:41 AM   #11
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Injectors Pulse, Spark is Good, Fuel is Good
this tells me it should at least try to run so long as compression is good and the correct fuel is in the tank .
maybe tell them to try a squirt of easy start .
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Old 11-24-2018, 04:33 AM   #12
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

Do you know for sure that the crank and cam sensors are working the way they should

I had a car one time that the error code showed that crank sensor was the problem but it was the cam sensor which was the problem

I ended up replacing both of them

The problem with car was that it would run for about 10 minuets then shut down and would not restart until it cool down for about 20 minuets then it would restart then the same thing would happen again
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Old 11-26-2018, 03:28 AM   #13
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Default Re: Ford Bantam 1.6 Rocam ECU chip Identification help

@petehall347: Yeah I agree...

@sam sam sam: I don't that's the thing. It's not my car/job to work on. I only got the ECU. And partly I'm trying to narrow down the issue for the mechanic as part of being "nice". I think I will tell him that I can look at it this weekend.

I didn't have my scope with me to check the signals at that time. But as mentioned it weren't my "place" out of respect to fiddle/work on or try anything other than working on the ECu PCB itself.

The issue you had is interesting, thanks for sharing will keep that in mind. Seems like one should really just test/check all important signals regardless of what the diagnostic codes say.

I'll definitely share everything I find on this one here as well.

Thanks for the inputs so far guys I really appreciate it!
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