Intel D865PERL caps

[splur]

So I have a bunch of computers with D865PERL mobos which all have similar caps that have either buldged or burst. Their ages match perfectly with the bad batch of Nichicon caps that were supposedly overfilled and burst prematurely. Unfortunately, given the age of these boards, it's not obvious what the replacement would be for these caps. Suggestions on good equivalent replacements?

The caps (had to tape measure the dimensions so they may be rough):
Nichicon HM(M) 2200uf 10V ~10mm(d) x 22mm(h)


Nichicon HN(M) 820uf 6.3V ~8mm(d) x 20mm(h)


I'm thinking http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail...MPD-ND/2428109 for the 820uf although the dimensions seem different (much shorter at 8mm), the ripple current seems okay? I'm totally lost for the 2200uf, I can't even find specs on these guys or ones with similar dimensions.

[momaka]

You gotta get rid of all Nichicon HM and HN caps on those boards - they will all fail. You can use new Nichicon HM and HN as replacements - these don't have the same defect that the old ones did. Here are some suggestions:

for the 6.3V 820 uF HNs:
http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...products_id=76

for the 2200 uF 10V HM:
http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=168
^Don't worry about the lower voltage rating on that one. There can be no more than 5V on that cap.

for the 1200 uF 16V HMs (visible in your second picture and these weren't on your list):
http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=174

Or if you really rather buy from Digikey, let me know.

[c_hegge]

^
Actually, the 1200uF 16V caps are, in all likelihood, Nichicon HD, which supposedly didn't have the defect. They -should- be OK to leave in place.

[splur]

Originally Posted by momaka

You gotta get rid of all Nichicon HM and HN caps on those boards - they will all fail. You can use new Nichicon HM and HN as replacements - these don't have the same defect that the old ones did. Here are some suggestions:

for the 6.3V 820 uF HNs:
http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...products_id=76

for the 2200 uF 10V HM:
http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=168
^Don't worry about the lower voltage rating on that one. There can be no more than 5V on that cap.

for the 1200 uF 16V HMs (visible in your second picture and these weren't on your list):
http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=174

Or if you really rather buy from Digikey, let me know.

Thanks a lot for the reply and information, I was totally lost about these older boards. Preferably I would go Digikey, ideas on equivalents? I've looked and it seems they've discontinued exact models. If it is a total mess finding equivalents for those two capacitors then I have no issues going through badcaps.

Originally Posted by c_hegge

^
Actually, the 1200uF 16V caps are, in all likelihood, Nichicon HD, which supposedly didn't have the defect. They -should- be OK to leave in place.

Phew, it's good to know that not all the capacitors on this board (actually there's 4 boards) aren't completely shot. May order extras in case of future issues.

[c_hegge]

Originally Posted by splur

Thanks a lot for the reply and information, I was totally lost about these older boards. Preferably I would go Digikey, ideas on equivalents? I've looked and it seems they've discontinued exact models. If it is a total mess finding equivalents for those two capacitors then I have no issues going through badcaps.

For the 820uF 6.3V caps next to the CPU, you can safely use 2.5V polymer caps, since they are on the CPU VRM Low side, and won't be dealing with voltages higher than about 1.5V. You could use these as a replacement - http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...4CT-ND/4204369 (Sanyo OS-CON SEPC 820uF 2.5V)

For the 2200uF 10V Nichicon HM, there isn't an exact replacement, but a Panny FR would -probably- be close enough (http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...382-ND/2433516)

[momaka]

The Sanyo SEPC are great caps! There are some other good polymer and functional polymer choices, though, like:
Fujitsu FPCAP - RR5, RE5, RR7, RE7, RL, and RS
Chemicon PSC and PSA

Below are some links to look at.
Here's something more or less equivalent to the SEPCs in terms of endurance, but a little cheaper:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1-1-ND/2347896
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...337-ND/4204173
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...328-ND/4204164

cheapest (but still good quality polymers, just lower endurance at 105C):
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...685-ND/2203554
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...690-ND/2207225
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...219-ND/1826683
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...3057-ND/758488

For the 2200 uF Nichicon HM, this is almost an exact replacement (just slightly lower voltage) and a bit cheaper:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...MPD-ND/2428123

Or these will do as well:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...MPD-ND/2428110
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...2344-ND/613705
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...744-ND/4289597
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...805-ND/3664445
(the caps in that last link are Nichicon HW - these are new series that I never tried before, so I don't know how good they are, but they appear to be equivalent to Panasonic FR/FM).

Originally Posted by c_hegge

Actually, the 1200uF 16V caps are, in all likelihood, Nichicon HD

Good catch. Totally forgot these were indeed present on some motherboards.

[mockingbird]

You might consider replacing all the little Nichicon VR on the board too. It's not a very long-lasting series, and Intel liked to use them on their boards.

[c_hegge]

Originally Posted by momaka

Nichicon FPCAP - RR5, RE5, RR7, RE7, RL, and RS

FTFY. Nichicon owns Fujitsu's capacitor division now.

[splur]

Thanks all for the help, youre suggestions worked out well momaka. I was scared at first about going from 10V to 6.3V, first time I went with capacitors of slightly different specs.

Anyways, ended up going with Panasonic 2SEPC820MY and Nichicon UHN0J222MPD. Had more troubles figuring out the software issues that came from me resetting the CMOS than the actual desoldering and soldering the new capacitors in.

[neumannu47]

Originally Posted by splur

Had more troubles figuring out the software issues that came from me resetting the CMOS than the actual desoldering and soldering the new capacitors in.

What sort of equipment are you using to desolder caps from motherboards?

[splur]

Originally Posted by neumannu47

What sort of equipment are you using to desolder caps from motherboards?

A 30W soldering iron, although I was limited in this case, typically I'd try and get a 40W... and my precious fingers to pull the caps off once I've heated the joints. Crude but effective.

I use a manual pump to clean the holes and a desoldering wick for anything left over.

[neumannu47]

Originally Posted by splur

A 30W soldering iron, although I was limited in this case, typically I'd try and get a 40W... and my precious fingers to pull the caps off once I've heated the joints. Crude but effective.

I use a manual pump to clean the holes and a desoldering wick for anything left over.

Are you using an 800 degree tip? My 700 degree tip does NOT do well with the lead-free solder on motherboards.

[splur]

Originally Posted by neumannu47

Are you using an 800 degree tip? My 700 degree tip does NOT do well with the lead-free solder on motherboards.

I actually couldn't find the specs for the soldering iron, and it's fixed temperature so not sure what temperature the tip is.

I did have trouble at first though, mixing in a bit of new solder helped melt the old solder and the caps came out no problem.