LG 27up600-w

[phantom1]

hello everyone looking for a schematic for this lg 27up600-w
main board is not working correctly no power up no light on button its just dead power supply is ok 19+ vdc and load at 2amps is holding as well not much in this unit just the main board has its power supply intergraded any help would be appreciated no signs of burning cant find any heat spots checked with flir
thinking missing voltage somewhere this thing was new and just not used last worked before it was put up and now not work as i was told but of course that's what i was told thanks again for any info I am trying to give this to someone in need of a monitor will include a picture and board number
EAX69564001 (1.3)

[CONCRETEGOD101]

Re: LG 27up600-w

Did you find any more information on this? I have two of these monitors not working.

[Sniglet]

Re: LG 27up600-w

Sign me up as having the same monitor with the same outcome.

Haven't dug into the power flow no the controller board as that's a little outside my wheelhouse and comfort zone, but BigClive.com has me thinking hard about it.

[patcap96]

Re: LG 27up600-w

Also have two bad boards. Swapped board with known working panel and all was good. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[jnatran]

Re: LG 27up600-w

Unfortunately, LG messed up this monitor real bad, I believe they accidentally shorted the 5V bus and 3.3V bus together causing all of the chips designed to run at 3.3V to run at 5V, which is well over their absolute maximum limits. The first chip fried for me was the audio output chip, so one day I suddenly got no audio. The second one fried was the main chip RTD2595LT. This is game over when I no longer can power on the monitor.

If you trace the board, you'll see R155 and R156 right next to the buzzer. R155 is connected to the buzzer and 3.3V bus. R156 is connected to the buzzer and 5V bus. I think these registers were meant to be something large, like probably 1K or higher so the buzzer could be powered by either 5V or 3.3V, but if you measure them, they are basically 0 thus shorting the 3.3V and 5V bus together.

Depend on how your board failed, you might get lucky and only the flash chip fry, which you could buy a new one for like a dollar and reprogram it. But chances are even if you remove one of the register above to disconnect the two buses, the damage is already done to the main chip like my board where it can no longer generate the clock to the flash chip at boot up at 3.3V. This board can still work if let run at 5V, but it won't last for sure.

So check the clock line on the flash chip IC202 pin 6, if it stay solid 3.3V when you connect power, then it's game over. If it toggles and the board will not boot, then you might have a chance. Try to reprogram the chip with the firmware I attached.