Gateway 2100

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

I am new to this forum but have been reading like crazy and thought that this post sounded most similar to my issue. I have several Gateway FPD2185W monitors that I have revived by replacing the caps on the inverter board. Now I have a panel that when placed in known functioning inverter and video card, exhibits the same symptom. Turns on to the Gateway logo, shows screen perfectly for about one second then goes black. I just don't get it and I'm not sure where to look. By the way, I can't figure out where the CCFLs are on this panel. The LCD is Samsung LTM210M2 if I remember correctly.

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway 2100

I am new to this forum but have been reading like crazy and thought that this post sounded most similar to my issue. I have several Gateway FPD2185W monitors that I have revived by replacing the caps on the inverter board. Now I have a panel that when placed in known functioning inverter and video card, exhibits the same symptom. Turns on to the Gateway logo, shows screen perfectly for about one second then goes black. I just don't get it and I'm not sure where to look. By the way, I can't figure out where the CCFLs are on this panel. The LCD is Samsung LTM210M2 if I remember correctly.

Welcome to the Badcaps Forum and congratulations on an excellent job of troubleshooting. Obviously, it's the CCFLs.

Now to check / replace the CCFLs. Remember 'All the President's Men'. But instead of 'Follow the money', "Follow the wires".

How about a couple of pictures of the panel? Pay particular attention to where the CCFL leads go into the panel. I've got a Samsung LTM213 and replacing the CCFLs is tedious, but not particularly difficult. If they are similar I'll give you a summary of how to do it.

PlainBill

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

I guess this is one of those newbie questions but why is it obviously the CCFLs? I just keep thinking that it is something else because the screen will display PERFECTLY for 1-2 seconds then nothing. My thought is that something shorts or 'trips' somewhere.

1st pic is the back of the panel with the metal retaining clips still attached on the sides.

Next pic is a close up of the leads going to an impossible to get to CCFL?

I threw in one of the board in the LCD with absolutely no signs of issues and all solid state components.

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway 2100

I guess this is one of those newbie questions but why is it obviously the CCFLs? I just keep thinking that it is something else because the screen will display PERFECTLY for 1-2 seconds then nothing. My thought is that something shorts or 'trips' somewhere.

1st pic is the back of the panel with the metal retaining clips still attached on the sides.

Next pic is a close up of the leads going to an impossible to get to CCFL?

I threw in one of the board in the LCD with absolutely no signs of issues and all solid state components.

The first part is easy. The backlight circuit consists of four parts. The power supply, the logic board, the inverter, and the CCFLs. The logic board signals the inverter to turn the CCFLs on or off, and to adjust the brightness. The inverter has a pulse width modulated power controller which generates the drive pulses for the transistors that drive the transformers. The PWM controller also has logic to sense if all CCFLs are working properly. For about a second after the controller gets power it drives the CCFLs at full brightness. After that if any CCFL is drawing too much or too little power the controller will shut all of them down. Your tests established that the inverter, logic board, and power supply were all good. That doesn't leave much.

The pictures look somewhat familiar. Take a look at the two pictures in this thread.

By any chance are there two screws at each side of the FRONT of the panel?

The LTM213 panel I have is made as a 'shadow box'. There is a metal frame that covers the sides. and has a lip that wraps around the front. There is a plastic frame that drops into the metal frame. The metal frame has 4 slots on each side (my second picture shows some of them). The plastic frame has 4 'catches' on each side that slip into the slots when it is pushed into the metal frame, plus it is held in place by the four screws I mentioned earlier.

The trick is to release the plastic catches from the metal slots. I used some very high tech tools to do this. I had a flat tip screwdriver with a blade about 3/8" wide. By placing the screwdriver on top of the catch and twisting it gently I was able to force the metal frame out past the end of the catch. Then to prevent it from dropping back in I used the other high-tech tool - toothpicks. I placed them between the metal frame and the plastic frame.

Work carefully, you don't want to damage the flexible circuit strip, nor pull it free. I would force each side out in two steps.

PlainBill

[EGuevarae]

Re: Gateway 2100

I guess this is one of those newbie questions but why is it obviously the CCFLs? I just keep thinking that it is something else because the screen will display PERFECTLY for 1-2 seconds then nothing. My thought is that something shorts or 'trips' somewhere.

1st pic is the back of the panel with the metal retaining clips still attached on the sides.

Next pic is a close up of the leads going to an impossible to get to CCFL?

I threw in one of the board in the LCD with absolutely no signs of issues and all solid state components.

You mentioned you have several units of that model. That means you have several sets of CCFLs to test with.Why don't you just take a good lamp and test each one of the CCFL outputs using the good lamp until you find the faulty one?
As for the removal, you must first get off the front metal frame. That will leave you in front of a black plastic frame that covers the CCFLs and is at the same time, the base for the actual TFT panel and the cover for the diffusion sheets. Sometimes the CCFL channel is attached using aluminum tape. You must cut the tape before you can get the CCFL rail out.

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

Bill, my panel is put together a little bit different than the link provided but I have gotten to the point where I have gingerly taken off the metal frame and exposed the plastic. I started to try and remove it but got scared since things seemed very loose and i was concerned about the flexible circuitry becoming damaged.

One of my panels has a cracked screen but I do believe that the bulbs are good because it drives a signal. I haven't removed a bulb before and I haven't been able to see something that looks like the bulb. As far as testing goes, should I make up a multi-pin connector to extend the length and test it on the bench? I'm not sure how to test the bulb (other than powered up in situ) let alone one at a time.

I am more than willing to read but would appreciate a bit more spoon feeding right now because I am out of my comfort zone.

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway 2100

Bill, my panel is put together a little bit different than the link provided but I have gotten to the point where I have gingerly taken off the metal frame and exposed the plastic. I started to try and remove it but got scared since things seemed very loose and i was concerned about the flexible circuitry becoming damaged.

One of my panels has a cracked screen but I do believe that the bulbs are good because it drives a signal. I haven't removed a bulb before and I haven't been able to see something that looks like the bulb. As far as testing goes, should I make up a multi-pin connector to extend the length and test it on the bench? I'm not sure how to test the bulb (other than powered up in situ) let alone one at a time.

I am more than willing to read but would appreciate a bit more spoon feeding right now because I am out of my comfort zone.

I understand very much getting out of a comfort zone. What I would do would be to rig up extension leads so you can use a CCFL in the cracked monitor to substitute for each one in turn in the good monitor. Remember, the controller checks each individual CCFL.

Once you have satisfied yourself that there is a bad CCFL you can tear down the cracked screen. The very worst thing that can happen is that you manage to drop it on your foot while your wife is watching and break every CCFL. The most likely thing to happen is you will say 'Heck, that's not too hard'.

PlainBill

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

ok...so I took the metal casing off the panel and gently pried up the plastic casing which is somewhat apart. I can see that one bulb goes all the way across the top and the other all the way across the bottom. However, they are enclosed in what could best be described as a J channel where the entire back plane is attached. The wires run on top of this channel and the ends appear to be a rubbery material with a couple clips holding it in. I can't see how to remove this without taking the LCD glass itself out!

My point and shoot digital doesn't make it easy to get good photos but I have tried to show both ends of one of the bulbs.

HELP

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway 2100

ok...so I took the metal casing off the panel and gently pried up the plastic casing which is somewhat apart. I can see that one bulb goes all the way across the top and the other all the way across the bottom. However, they are enclosed in what could best be described as a J channel where the entire back plane is attached. The wires run on top of this channel and the ends appear to be a rubbery material with a couple clips holding it in. I can't see how to remove this without taking the LCD glass itself out!

My point and shoot digital doesn't make it easy to get good photos but I have tried to show both ends of one of the bulbs.

HELP

On the panel I have dissected there are two 'cartridges' that hold the lamps, one at the top of the panel, one at the bottom. Each 'cartridge' is a three sided channel with three lamps side by side. The ends of the lamps are imbedded in rubber. One end of the 'cartridge' has a metal tab that fastens to the frame with a tiny screw. Once the screw is removed the entire 'cartridge' can be pulled out the side of the panel. lamps can be changed and the 'cartridge reinserted.

PlainBill

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

I wrestled with it and don't think that I did the proper way but I changed the bulbs. A couple in the bank of three were definitely blown. I didn't get a chance to re-assemble everything. I will update when I get some time tomorrow evening.

Cheers

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

Ok so I wasn't ready to sleep after hockey and I only have a full day of meetings tomorrow so why not finish this up?

It turns out one of the CCFL bulb banks was blown. I replaced it with a functioning one from my monitor with a cracked screen and voila...works like a charm. I now have a bit of a hum in both of my monitors so I am wondering if I have a cold solder somewhere. Right now they work and I'm happy so I'm going to leave it until I can get my hands on another project.

Cheers,
James

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

That's weird...my pictures didn't go. I thought I would post a pic of the blown bulb so that others have an idea what this thing looks like. I'm really learning that I either need to get a better camera or better lighting because the bluriness has nothing to do with beer!

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway 2100

That's weird...my pictures didn't go. I thought I would post a pic of the blown bulb so that others have an idea what this thing looks like. I'm really learning that I either need to get a better camera or better lighting because the bluriness has nothing to do with beer!

Yup, looks similar to what I have. Looks like the design is evolving.

See!!! I told you that you could do it!!

PlainBill

[Airborne29th]

Re: Gateway 2100

Hi, first post here, came across your post by chance and Im so glad I did, I about gave up on this monitor. Found it at the dump actually and brought it home, it worked but same symtoms. Figured it was the boards, checked both boards and replaced the caps on both because they were leaking and swollen. Still same issue. I thought i was done for lol. but read your post and decided to tear it down. I mean what do I have to lose. Checked the bulbs and voila! Both sets were burned on the ends.. So gonna replace them.. any idea on where to find some or how much?? Hope this isnt reviving too dead of a post..

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

Welcome to the forum!

I have seen some on eBay and some members have suggested other sources so they can speak better to this. In my case, I was fortunate to have acquired other monitors with similar construction.

Have you confirmed yet that the bulb is the culprit? There is a pretty standard two prong connector that is used in this monitor and most 20" and smaller monitors that I have looked at. It is the small grey one in the picture. If you have another, you can confirm the bulb by checking one bank at a time. For the four prong connector, I have used alligator clips and leads to test things one bank at a time. Using this method or the light kit for a PC as others have suggested is simply to prove that it is your bulbs and to confirm whether it is the top or bottom bank that you are dealing with.

The cheapest source of parts (including bulbs) will be from a similar monitor with a smashed screen. This particular Samsung panel was used by several manufacturers so you can do your homework and get lucky with something on Freecycle, Craigslist, or eBay.

If you don't have a way to confirm the bulbs, visual inspection will get you there. In hind sight, getting at the bulbs isn't too difficult but you will think that things don't come apart a couple of times before you get there. Be very careful of the flexible sections that connect the panel to the board. The tape is applied with pressure and very sensitive. I damaged one of the first ones that I opened by not giving it enough respect.

In the end, I love this monitor and have revived 5 of them!

[freelander]

Re: Gateway 2100

I forgot to add that the Blue/yellow and pink/black are the wire pairings for the two bulbs in the bigger connector. Be careful when testing since there is high voltage going to these. Turn the power off in between moving wires.

When you find the faulty bulb (assuming there is only one), the monitor will light up and it will light the bulb that you are using to test.

[konradj]

Re: Gateway 2100

hello

I have a defective gateway fpd 2185 that I want to repair. I replaced the caps and monitor now powers on, I see the logo, sometimes I get to see the desktop for a second and the screen shuts itself off. the flashlight test doesn't show my desktop being turned on, can't see icons etc. it pretty much looks exactly like the problem you had with your monitor Freelander. I'm looking at the display right now (LTM210M2-LO2 Samsung), I took the metal casing off of it and I got the board facing me, I see the black plastic frame around that is attached to the metal framing.

Can you share photos or advice how to get to the ccfl bulbs without destroying it? what type of bulbs would I need to get and where to find them maybe? I only have this one panel so I will have to either look for another panel somewhere on the internet or somehow get the bulbs. How did you take it apart? I would really appreciate some advice because this just freaks me out a bit.

thanks
Konrad

[konradj]

Re: Gateway 2100

Ok, got to the bulbs, it was easier than I thought. 4 out of 6 seem to be broken. I will post more images in around 6 hours. Gotta leave now.

[konradj]

Re: Gateway 2100

Ok I'm back and can take post photos of my ccfl's

I take those dark endings as burns, do I still have to test them or can I just take that as a regular sign of malfunction? they look burned but what do I know about cold cfl's right?

I wonder which is gonna be cheaper, to get a used panel or buy the light bulbs separately? any advice appreciated.

[konradj]

Re: Gateway 2100

too bad I can't edit the posts I wrote, would put them into one.

anyway. I connected the lights without the screen to see them light up, to my surprise all 6 light up, there is noise when they work and the light is very violet from all six of them, I expected a shower of bright white light and all I got was this semi bright noisy violet/pink light.

can somebody confirm whether these bulbs are really failing?