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#41 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,296
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![]() Yes, 3A fuse.
Looks like you have a problem deeper than that, 2A is too small fuse and I have seen some that draw high current than 2A The marking says 3A and you have to use 3A fuse. Even my 32" panel 5V supply specifies 2.5A fuse for max of start up 1.9A, running 1.4A. Cheers, Wizard Last edited by Wizard; 01-28-2010 at 09:35 AM.. |
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#42 | |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() Quote:
I'm going to change the fuse again and will then start testing the smd's again as hardwareguy suggested. |
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#43 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2006
City & State: Dallas Texas
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 405
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![]() DO NOT add another fuse! Find the short FIRST!
Repeatedly blowing fuses could harm the system as the system will be repeatedly subject to overload. If it reads 1.0 on the 200 ohm scale....are you sure thats not OL or something? 1.0 on my meter means 1.0 ohms....and if you get that on an MLCC cap, its dead. |
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#44 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2009
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 7,013
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![]() Quote:
PlainBill
__________________
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored. Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic. |
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#45 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() let me clarify, first I'm changing the fuse in order to start testing the ceramic smds again. For now ALL the smds do not cause the meter to react in any way. When I turn on the meter and set it on 200, it displays 1.
This reading doesn't change at all when I touch any smd. However, when I touch the two ends together, it give me a 0.4reading. So I'm hoping that by first changing the fuse and then doing the readings, it might change something. BUT I WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO PLUG THE BOARD BACK ON THE TV UNTIL I"VE FOUND THE CULPRIT ![]() |
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#46 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() So, I replaced the fuse and started testing smds again but the meter still isn't reacting when I touch the ends to the smds. Am I doing something wrong?
Please see pics below of the meter when the ends are not touching, when the ends are touching and when I try to test two smds. Maybe the meter is faulty? I have another meter but doesn't have a setting at 200... |
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#47 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2009
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 7,013
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![]() Quote:
Follow this logic. The T-Con board gets it's power through that fuse. It converts the power to drive the LCD display, as well as using some for itself. One thing that can go wrong is a SMD cap shorts, loading the power line, and blowing the fuse. Per Wizard, when that happens the cap will have a reading below 80 ohms. You do not find a cap with a reading below 80 ohms. Conclusion: None of the SMD caps are shorted. (Just for luck check ALL SMD caps) Other possible causes of this problem is a fault in one of the ICs, a fault in the voltage converter, a bad inductor, a fault in the LCD panel. One thing that helps troubleshooting this is the total current through the fuse is only a little over 3A. PlainBill |
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#48 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() so, I've gone as far as my limited knowledge permits me...
I will be ordering the t-con online. However, there is a minimum quantity order, so I will need to purchase more than one item. What other boards are known to fail on this tv? I'll order that board too! Last edited by bobbyvalentino1978; 02-01-2010 at 12:20 PM.. Reason: spelling mistakes |
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#49 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 25
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![]() My board is still on its way. It should be here tonight or tomorrow. I'm pretty anxious. I really hope it fixes it after all this time. I got mine from Discount-Merchants for about $50 (again, I was the one with the Original tv in this post, a 32" Bravia)
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#50 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() I order my t-con today.
I got it from Mat Electronics for $9.95!! |
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#51 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 25
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![]() Holy crap!! Really!?
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#52 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 25
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![]() HEY HEY!! I got my T-Con board today. 15 minutes later I was looking at one snazzy working tv. I still don't know what was wrong with the old board, but at least with all your help I narrowed it down.
Thanks a lot everybody for your help! and best of luck fixing your own |
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#53 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,296
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![]() Awesome! I knew that would fix this (higher chance of success).
Cheers, Wizard |
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#54 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() I wish I have the same luck. I'll post the outcome when I get my board and install !
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#55 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() So, I got the replacement board, installed it but the fuse popped again.
Can any other board be burning the fuse? |
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#56 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,296
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![]() Panel totally failed sorry to say. Also make sure the LCD voltage is 5 or 12V is within range. If not. Time for a another panel or new TV.
Cheers, Wizard |
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#57 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 22
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![]() how do i verify the voltage?
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#58 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
City & State: South Florida
Posts: 14
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![]() Got same problem on the 52" version. So I will keep tabs on this, for when I get around to getting new T-Con board.
Same thing, as first poster, BL works fine, actually even picture came on once just from moving connectors, get audio out from all the HDMI jacks, but no picture. |
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#59 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2009
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 7,013
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![]() Quote:
![]() PlainBill |
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#60 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
City & State: South Florida
Posts: 14
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![]() The cable is good, it is a 1 meter cable that I use everyday on the PS3 straight to other TV, but I did try a second cable to be sure. As well, went around every board on TV and checked connections, all look good (some grease, but that is standard).
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