Sony Bravia no picture but backlight on

[Wizard]

Yes, 3A fuse.

Looks like you have a problem deeper than that, 2A is too small fuse and I have seen some that draw high current than 2A The marking says 3A and you have to use 3A fuse. Even my 32" panel 5V supply specifies 2.5A fuse for max of start up 1.9A, running 1.4A.

Cheers, Wizard

[bobbyvalentino1978]

Originally Posted by PlainBill

That means it is reading more than 200 ohms. 200 ohms is greater than the 80 ohms Wizard mentioned. This means the cap isn't shorted. This is good news, you have eliminated the caps as a possible problem.

And I notice you STILL haven't answered the question - what was the rating of the replacement fuse?

I'm not trying to dump on you, but it's obvious you don't have a strong electronics background. I'm trying to make sure the simple things are correct.

PlainBill

The original is a 3A. The replacement was also 3A, but that burnt.
I'm going to change the fuse again and will then start testing the smd's again as hardwareguy suggested.

[hardwareguy]

DO NOT add another fuse! Find the short FIRST!

Repeatedly blowing fuses could harm the system as the system will be repeatedly subject to overload.

If it reads 1.0 on the 200 ohm scale....are you sure thats not OL or something?

1.0 on my meter means 1.0 ohms....and if you get that on an MLCC cap, its dead.

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by hardwareguy

DO NOT add another fuse! Find the short FIRST!

Repeatedly blowing fuses could harm the system as the system will be repeatedly subject to overload.

If it reads 1.0 on the 200 ohm scale....are you sure thats not OL or something?

1.0 on my meter means 1.0 ohms....and if you get that on an MLCC cap, its dead.

You are definitely right about simply replacing the fuse. It's blowing for a reason. As far as the resistance, take a look at the picture of the meter. It's on the resistance scale, the leads are not shorted and it's displaying 1 . (First digit 1, three spaces, then the decimal point).

PlainBill

[bobbyvalentino1978]

let me clarify, first I'm changing the fuse in order to start testing the ceramic smds again. For now ALL the smds do not cause the meter to react in any way. When I turn on the meter and set it on 200, it displays 1.
This reading doesn't change at all when I touch any smd. However, when I touch the two ends together, it give me a 0.4reading.
So I'm hoping that by first changing the fuse and then doing the readings, it might change something.
BUT I WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO PLUG THE BOARD BACK ON THE TV UNTIL I"VE FOUND THE CULPRIT

[bobbyvalentino1978]

So, I replaced the fuse and started testing smds again but the meter still isn't reacting when I touch the ends to the smds. Am I doing something wrong?
Please see pics below of the meter when the ends are not touching, when the ends are touching and when I try to test two smds.
Maybe the meter is faulty? I have another meter but doesn't have a setting at 200...

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by bobbyvalentino1978

So, I replaced the fuse and started testing smds again but the meter still isn't reacting when I touch the ends to the smds. Am I doing something wrong?
Please see pics below of the meter when the ends are not touching, when the ends are touching and when I try to test two smds.
Maybe the meter is faulty? I have another meter but doesn't have a setting at 200...

To mangle Wm Shakespeare '“The fault .... lies not in our meters but in ourselves.”
Follow this logic.

The T-Con board gets it's power through that fuse.
It converts the power to drive the LCD display, as well as using some for itself.
One thing that can go wrong is a SMD cap shorts, loading the power line, and blowing the fuse.
Per Wizard, when that happens the cap will have a reading below 80 ohms.
You do not find a cap with a reading below 80 ohms.
Conclusion: None of the SMD caps are shorted. (Just for luck check ALL SMD caps)

Other possible causes of this problem is a fault in one of the ICs, a fault in the voltage converter, a bad inductor, a fault in the LCD panel. One thing that helps troubleshooting this is the total current through the fuse is only a little over 3A.

PlainBill

[bobbyvalentino1978]

so, I've gone as far as my limited knowledge permits me...
I will be ordering the t-con online. However, there is a minimum quantity order, so I will need to purchase more than one item. What other boards are known to fail on this tv? I'll order that board too!

[capxrf]

My board is still on its way. It should be here tonight or tomorrow. I'm pretty anxious. I really hope it fixes it after all this time. I got mine from Discount-Merchants for about $50 (again, I was the one with the Original tv in this post, a 32" Bravia)

[bobbyvalentino1978]

I order my t-con today.
I got it from Mat Electronics for $9.95!!

[capxrf]

Holy crap!! Really!?

[capxrf]

HEY HEY!! I got my T-Con board today. 15 minutes later I was looking at one snazzy working tv. I still don't know what was wrong with the old board, but at least with all your help I narrowed it down.

Thanks a lot everybody for your help!


and best of luck fixing your own

[Wizard]

Awesome! I knew that would fix this (higher chance of success).

Cheers, Wizard

[bobbyvalentino1978]

I wish I have the same luck. I'll post the outcome when I get my board and install !

[bobbyvalentino1978]

So, I got the replacement board, installed it but the fuse popped again.
Can any other board be burning the fuse?

[Wizard]

Panel totally failed sorry to say. Also make sure the LCD voltage is 5 or 12V is within range. If not. Time for a another panel or new TV.

Cheers, Wizard

[bobbyvalentino1978]

how do i verify the voltage?

[BCR]

Got same problem on the 52" version. So I will keep tabs on this, for when I get around to getting new T-Con board.

Same thing, as first poster, BL works fine, actually even picture came on once just from moving connectors, get audio out from all the HDMI jacks, but no picture.

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by BCR

Got same problem on the 52" version. So I will keep tabs on this, for when I get around to getting new T-Con board.

Same thing, as first poster, BL works fine, actually even picture came on once just from moving connectors, get audio out from all the HDMI jacks, but no picture.

That indicates a bad connection - either the cable itself, or on the board the cable connected to.

PlainBill

[BCR]

The cable is good, it is a 1 meter cable that I use everyday on the PS3 straight to other TV, but I did try a second cable to be sure. As well, went around every board on TV and checked connections, all look good (some grease, but that is standard).