Hello!
I need help on picking which capacitors I should buy as a replacement.
Recently my 26" Samsung 2693HM monitor started to refuse to power on for around 60 seconds until he 'warm up' and then show the screen. I already read all the topics at badcaps forum regarding my monitor model and I finally decided to 'open it' and check whats going on 'inside'.
I have found one capacitor that leaked. My plan is to change all the capacitors on the power board and not just the one that leaked.
1st question:
==========
From what I understood, when it comes to capacitors which will be placed on power boards (for power supply) all caps MUST be with Low ESR, correct?
2nd question:
===========
Here are the caps that I need to change:
3x 1000uF 35v (12 x 20 mm) - Sam Young NXB
1x 1000uF 25v (10 x 20 mm) - Sam Young NXB
2x 2200uF 10v (10 x 25 mm) - Sam Young LXZ
2x 2.2uF 50v (5 x 11 mm) - Sam Young LXV
3x 22uF 50v (6 x 11 mm) - Sam Young LXV
2x 47uF 50v (6 x 11 mm) - Sam Young LXV
1x 220uF 450v (20 x 40 mm) - can't read the brand
Here is what I would like to know: I was told that it's good to use a capacitor with the same capacity BUT with little higher rated voltage. For instance for 10v I shpuld pick 16v. I don't know if picking up 25v rated instead 10v rated is good or bad. I also read that using little higher rated voltage could prolong the caps life? Is that true? Someone also told me that using higher voltage rated caps will not damage the monitor BUT monitor will take longer time (than normal) to show the screen (to power on) ? Can someone shed some light on these theories, please?
Also, if it is ok to put higher voltage caps without any flaws, which voltages would you siggest me considering the list of the caps that I have posted ^ above? Can you please made a note for every specific cap from my list.
3rd question:
===========
While I'm trying to find the local store that has the caps that I need, I often find the caps which are wider than the original ones. (or if I'm looking at some spare caps with higher voltages, those caps are wider). I know that how wide it is shouldn't make a difference BUT in my case, some original caps are very (VERY) close to each other. Like 1mm close. My fear is that if I put caps wider than original ones, they will make side-contact with each other. I think that would not be good since it will increase the temperature and and make them fail sooner. Am I correct?
Problem is it's hard to find matching caps here at local store with Low ESR and same dimensions. Unfortunately I can't currently order it online (outside my country) and I don't know anyone here that can order it for me. So I'm kinda stuck at picking from what I can find at local store. But I need advice about caps size and how bad it's for them to have side-contact?
For instance two caps that are very close to each other are:
1000uF 35v (12 x 20 mm) - its 12mm wide
2200uF 10v (10 x 20 mm) - its 10mm wide
btw ^ 1000uF 35v is the one that leaked and you can see these two caps on the far right on the image I uploaded as an attachment.
So, these ^ two are very close to each other. Maybe I'm wrong, but could it be that Samsung didn't wanted them to have a contact (by picking higher rated voltage for 2200uF) because it will require wider capacitor, but instead they went with a capacitor which is slim but also rated to smaller voltage?
You can see these two caps on the far right on the image I uploaded as an attachment.
4th question:
===========
I read this topic:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58648
It was told that you can put polymer capacitors instead electrolytic ones for fixing a PC motherboard. But what about electrolytic capacitors for monitor power board? Can I also put polymer caps there (instead of electrolytic ones) ? Is it safe?
If the answer is 'Yes' then should the spare polymer caps (for power board) have the same capacitance and voltage rating or it can (should) be lower? (I'm asking this because that is also mentioned in the topic I linked ^ above)
Thanks in advance for your help!
... and sorry about the long post.
I need help on picking which capacitors I should buy as a replacement.
Recently my 26" Samsung 2693HM monitor started to refuse to power on for around 60 seconds until he 'warm up' and then show the screen. I already read all the topics at badcaps forum regarding my monitor model and I finally decided to 'open it' and check whats going on 'inside'.
I have found one capacitor that leaked. My plan is to change all the capacitors on the power board and not just the one that leaked.
1st question:
==========
From what I understood, when it comes to capacitors which will be placed on power boards (for power supply) all caps MUST be with Low ESR, correct?
2nd question:
===========
Here are the caps that I need to change:
3x 1000uF 35v (12 x 20 mm) - Sam Young NXB
1x 1000uF 25v (10 x 20 mm) - Sam Young NXB
2x 2200uF 10v (10 x 25 mm) - Sam Young LXZ
2x 2.2uF 50v (5 x 11 mm) - Sam Young LXV
3x 22uF 50v (6 x 11 mm) - Sam Young LXV
2x 47uF 50v (6 x 11 mm) - Sam Young LXV
1x 220uF 450v (20 x 40 mm) - can't read the brand
Here is what I would like to know: I was told that it's good to use a capacitor with the same capacity BUT with little higher rated voltage. For instance for 10v I shpuld pick 16v. I don't know if picking up 25v rated instead 10v rated is good or bad. I also read that using little higher rated voltage could prolong the caps life? Is that true? Someone also told me that using higher voltage rated caps will not damage the monitor BUT monitor will take longer time (than normal) to show the screen (to power on) ? Can someone shed some light on these theories, please?
Also, if it is ok to put higher voltage caps without any flaws, which voltages would you siggest me considering the list of the caps that I have posted ^ above? Can you please made a note for every specific cap from my list.
3rd question:
===========
While I'm trying to find the local store that has the caps that I need, I often find the caps which are wider than the original ones. (or if I'm looking at some spare caps with higher voltages, those caps are wider). I know that how wide it is shouldn't make a difference BUT in my case, some original caps are very (VERY) close to each other. Like 1mm close. My fear is that if I put caps wider than original ones, they will make side-contact with each other. I think that would not be good since it will increase the temperature and and make them fail sooner. Am I correct?
Problem is it's hard to find matching caps here at local store with Low ESR and same dimensions. Unfortunately I can't currently order it online (outside my country) and I don't know anyone here that can order it for me. So I'm kinda stuck at picking from what I can find at local store. But I need advice about caps size and how bad it's for them to have side-contact?
For instance two caps that are very close to each other are:
1000uF 35v (12 x 20 mm) - its 12mm wide
2200uF 10v (10 x 20 mm) - its 10mm wide
btw ^ 1000uF 35v is the one that leaked and you can see these two caps on the far right on the image I uploaded as an attachment.
So, these ^ two are very close to each other. Maybe I'm wrong, but could it be that Samsung didn't wanted them to have a contact (by picking higher rated voltage for 2200uF) because it will require wider capacitor, but instead they went with a capacitor which is slim but also rated to smaller voltage?
You can see these two caps on the far right on the image I uploaded as an attachment.
4th question:
===========
I read this topic:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58648
It was told that you can put polymer capacitors instead electrolytic ones for fixing a PC motherboard. But what about electrolytic capacitors for monitor power board? Can I also put polymer caps there (instead of electrolytic ones) ? Is it safe?
If the answer is 'Yes' then should the spare polymer caps (for power board) have the same capacitance and voltage rating or it can (should) be lower? (I'm asking this because that is also mentioned in the topic I linked ^ above)
Thanks in advance for your help!
... and sorry about the long post.
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