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**mockingbird** · 12-02-2013, 03:13 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Re-cap both the entire motherboard and the PSU... I think those models have Sanyo SEPC polymers for the CPU VRM... PSU looks like all OST and LTec. Check those small 10V 220uF Rubycon caps on the motherboard. If they are 105C, leave them. If they are 85C, replace them all (You can use 6.3V if you want).

First I would start with the PSU. What you want to do is remove the PCB from the enclosure, and you can do this by desoldering four wires. Two are the thick AC wires (Usually blue and brown), and then you might have another two skinny red wires for the on/off switch. Now you want to draw up a list with the Voltage, Capacitance, Brand, Diameter, and Series. An example would be:
16V 3300uF OST RLX 12.5mm x 20mm

Make sure to include -ALL- the caps, even those tiny 5mm ones. Post the list here and someone can direct you further.

**bigjess007** · 12-02-2013, 04:17 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Recap the entire moboard? As in everything or just those 4 2200 6.3v's?
The small (and there's tons of them) Rubycon 220uf 10V's all appear to be 105c. Letters on them are PET if it matters.

The other moboard caps I see are:
Rubycon 1800uf 6.3V MCZ's (thought those were ok).
Rubycon 660uf 16v MCZ

I don't see any Sanyo's, but there appears to be those (maybe) surface mount caps under the heat sink? There's one top left corner that looks like ones under the heat sink shroud, it has 652 SEPC 560 4 on it. Ok, just re-read your post, is that one in the top corner and from what I can see underneath the shroud what your referring to on CPU VRM's? And is that surface mount or through hole soldering? Cause I can do through hole, however surface mount ain't my forte.

And ugh, I was afraid you would say that on the power supply. It's worth it to rebuild it right? I'll tear it completely down to get the info. How do you get diameters? Measuring or lookup specs? I'm thinking if I have to measure I'd have to desolder some, was hoping to swap real time.

Many thanks again!!

**c_hegge** · 12-02-2013, 04:53 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

You can leave the Rubycons on the board, but redo all of the KZJs.

**bigjess007** · 12-02-2013, 05:31 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

So don't worry about the Sanyo's? And what should I get to replace those KZJ's? Thanks!

**bigjess007** · 12-02-2013, 05:34 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Here's what I can see on the PSU. Boy that was fun trying to see that

HTML Code:

Ltec 	680uf 16v 	PET	LZP 105c C(M)	7105D	(QTY1)
Ltec 	10uf 50v		TH 105c C(M)	6DO2D	(QTY6)
Ltec 	120uf 16v		LZP 105c C(M)	6N30D	(QTY2)
Ltec 	2200uf 16v	PET	LZP 105c C(M)		(QTY1)
Ltec 	470uf 25v	PET	LZP 105c C(M)	6D24D	(QTY1)
Ltec 	1500uf 10v	PET	LZP 105c C(M)	6D03D	(QTY1)
Ltec 	220uf 35v	PET	LZP 105c C(M)	6D12D	(QTY1)
Ltec 	22uf 50v		TH 105c C(M)	6DO2D	(QTY2)
Ltec 	4.7uf 50v		TH 105c C(M)	6NO2D	(QTY1)
Ltec 	2.2uf 50v		TH 105c C(M)	6NO2D	(QTY1)
Ltec 	47uf 50v		LZP 105c C(M)	7108D	(QTY1)
TAICON	2.2 uf 450v					(QTY1)
OST	470uf 220v	SPS 85c PET			(QTY2)
OST 	3300uf 10V	Can't see other side		(QTY1)
OST 	2200uf 10V	RLP 105C 	0649		(QTY2)
OST 	3300uf 6.3V	RLP 105C 	0647		(QTY1)
OST 	2200uf 6.3V	RLP 105C 	0651		(QTY1)

Have no idea how to measure them. Get the specs on each one?

**mockingbird** · 12-02-2013, 10:32 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Good job. Yes, listen to c_hegge, just the KZJ. The Rubycons are OK because they are 105C. Dell sometimes uses 85C for the small caps on those boards and only then do they need replacing. The Rubycon MCZ and Sanyo SEPC are high quality caps, although I myself have a similar Dell board a year older than yours with a vented 10mm MCZ, yours are probably fine.

I think PSU is made by Lite-On and it's a 2006 model judging by the capacitor datecodes. Model is L305P-01. It's worth replacing if it's a custom size. Otherwise, you're stuck with a replacement that also uses lousy caps. If it's a standard ATX PSU, then a quality replacement runs at about $50-$60.

Don't worry about the measurements... I'm going to list you replacements from Newark/Farnell in the same order that you listed them. I can't use Digikey because they don't stock some of what you need. Here we go:
1) 23T5868
2) 65R4086
3) 39T8575
4) 32R8994
5) 49W7428
6) 04M8997
7) 04M9017
8) 71T7001
9) 65R4131
10) 17T5095
11) 17T5100
12) 65R4393
13) Do not change.
14) 32R8958
15) 04M8998
16) 32R8958
17) 04M8998

If I list a 6.3V equivalent in place of the original 10V cap, don't worry about it. Secondary filtering caps which are 10V are only used on rails with voltage not higher than 5V.

The two big capacitors I said not to change, if you do want to change them, you will need to actually measure them, and you should also be aware that these will cost you several dollars a piece, each. They don't usually need changing because they don't wear out the same way the smaller capacitors do. To measure them, take a ruler with a millimeter scale, and measure the top, this is the width, then measure it from top to bottom, this is the height.

As for the KZJ caps, Newark doesn't stock those anymore, so you can get them from the owner of this site. Doen't use HM, you need at least HN or even better HZ. Make sure you get them in 10mm. The height is not important.

Also, don't worry if when you receive the caps (Assuming you go through with the order) some of them are skinnier or taller/shorter than the originals. The important thing is that they are not fatter than the originals, because they will not fit if they are. And I have made sure to get ones with the equivalent width or ones that are narrower.

Lastly, be sure to doublecheck my list to make sure I haven't made any mistakes (And that none of the parts are backordered).

**c_hegge** · 12-02-2013, 11:06 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

It looks like you have 2200uF capacitors on the motherboard, so these (https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=168) Nichicon HNs would be a perfect replacement.

EDIT: Actually, I think that Cap 4 on the list is a 12.5mm (the one in the front of the picture). If that is the case, use this - a Nichicon HE

**bigjess007** · 12-03-2013, 01:33 AM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

mockingbird - first a huge thanks!! I know that took some serious time for you to do all of that and it's much appreciated. c_hegge - appreciate you advice and insight as well!

mockingbird - Regarding your comments about replacing it, well, here's my thoughts. It's definitely cheaper for me to recap it. I will probably have $20 total including shipping in all of this. I already have the tools, and my labor is well free. My only concern is if it's worth it, and at this point unless the rest of the power supply hardware is junk or is going to keep causing me problems, then I say it's worth it as if I pick up a working pull from flebay then I've still got crappy caps. And if I buy a quality replacement that will even fit, I've got major bucks. My hope is rebuilding this with good caps will keep from causing any more damage to the motherboard and I get a few more years out of it. Plus I've got two gx620's that are next after this one, and they take those skinny proprietary power supplies so I know I'm going to have to rebuild those. Any final thoughts? Am I nutz?

On to your list. I matched your list to what I listed and noted anything that wasn't match for match. (BTW I noticed you went with Panasonic F* series alot, I used those exclusively when I recapped my tivo power supplies, they seem to be much loved!)

HTML Code:

Ltec 	680uf 16v 	(QTY1)		23T5868		PANASONIC EEU-FM1C681L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 680UF, 20%, 16V, RADIAL
Ltec 	10uf 50v	(QTY6)		65R4086		NICHICON UPW1H100MDD1TD CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 10UF, 50V, 20%, RADIAL
Ltec 	120uf 16v	(QTY2)		39T8575		RUBYCON 16ZL120MEFC6.3X11 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 120UF, 16V, 20%, RADIAL
Ltec 	2200uf 16v	(QTY1)		32R8994		PANASONIC EEUFK1C222L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 2200UF, 16V, 20%, RADIAL
Ltec 	470uf 25v	(QTY1)		49W7428		PANASONIC EEU-FR1E471YB CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 470UF, 25V, 20%, RADIAL
Ltec 	1500uf 10v	(QTY1)		04M8997	*DM	PANASONIC EEU-FM0J152 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 1500UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD
Ltec 	220uf 35v	(QTY1)	OOS & DM!! 04M9017	PANASONIC EEU-FM1E221 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 220UF, 25V, 20%, RADIAL
Ltec 	22uf 50v	(QTY2)		71T7001		PANASONIC EEU-FR1H220 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 22UF, 20%, 50V, RADIAL
Ltec 	4.7uf 50v	(QTY1)		65R4131		NICHICON UPW1H4R7MDD1TD CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 4.7UF, 50V, 20%, RADIAL
Ltec 	2.2uf 50v	(QTY1)		17T5095		PANASONIC EEU-FC1H2R2 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 2.2UF, 20%, 50V, RADIAL
Ltec 	47uf 50v	(QTY1)		17T5100		PANASONIC EEU-FC1H470 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 47UF, 50V, 20%, RADIAL	
TAICON	2.2 uf 450v	(QTY1)		65R4393		NICHICON UPW2W2R2MPD1TD CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 2.2UF, 450V, 20%, RADIAL
OST	470uf 220v	(QTY2)		Not Replacing, no need (didn't replace the big one on the tivo psu either).
OST 	3300uf 10V	(QTY1)		32R8958	*DM	PANASONIC EEUFK0J332L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 3300UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD
OST 	2200uf 10V	(QTY2)		04M8998	*DM	PANASONIC EEU-FM0J222L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 2200UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD
OST 	3300uf 6.3V	(QTY1)		32R8958		PANASONIC EEUFK0J332L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 3300UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD
OST 	2200uf 6.3V	(QTY1)		04M8998		PANASONIC EEU-FM0J222L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 2200UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD

I've got a couple of questions:

HTML Code:

Ltec 	1500uf 10v	(QTY1)		04M8997	*DM	PANASONIC EEU-FM0J152 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 1500UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD
OST 	3300uf 10V	(QTY1)		32R8958	*DM	PANASONIC EEUFK0J332L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 3300UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD
OST 	2200uf 10V	(QTY2)		04M8998	*DM	PANASONIC EEU-FM0J222L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC 2200UF, 6.3V, 20%, RAD

Well on these three it's a comment more than a question. These don't match exactly, but you said that's fine cause they are on the secondary. So ignore my "*DM"

Ok on this one, number 7 on the list:

HTML Code:

Ltec 	220uf 35v	(QTY1)	OOS & DM!! 04M9017	PANASONIC EEU-FM1E221 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 220UF, 25V, 20%, RADIAL

The cap you list is the same uf, but 25v instead of 35v, and it's out of stock. Does the voltage difference matter, and can you recommend a similar one instock?

And number 4, I have questions for both of you:

HTML Code:

Ltec 	2200uf 16v	(QTY1)		32R8994		PANASONIC EEUFK1C222L CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 2200UF, 16V, 20%, RADIAL

mockingbird the one you spec'd is there, however c_hegge is advising 65R1920 (NICHICON UHE1C222MHD1TO CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 2200UF, 16V, 20%, RADIAL).
32R8994 is 10mm; 65R1920 is 12.5mm
mockingbird you were saying that size only matters if they are fatter. c_hegge's pick is fatter I beleive, don't I want the skinnier one or does fatter end up being better as long as it fits???

Switching gears to the motherboard caps, couple of questions on the conflicting advice. I want HN or HZ? Cause from what I'm seeing, badcaps.net has both in stock (HN / HZ). mockingbird your recommending HN or better HZ, c_hegge your recommending HN correct? They are both the same price, only difference I see is HZ is 4mm taller than HN.

Well I think that's my quota on questions for a post

Many many thanks again for all the assistance!

**mockingbird** · 12-03-2013, 12:13 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

The cap you list is the same uf, but 25v instead of 35v, and it's out of stock. Does the voltage difference matter, and can you recommend a similar one instock?

Good catch. Yes, 25V is fine there, the cap is either for 3.3V, 5V, or 12V, so even a 16V cap would be fine here... What they do is move to a higher voltage part of a series to get a better spec'd cap ripple and ESR wise, but if you can find one with those characteristics at a lower voltage, then that's great too. I see why that one slipped by Newark's "In Stock" filter... Its status is "Awaiting Delivery"... Use 49W7350 instead.

mockingbird the one you spec'd is there, however c_hegge is advising 65R1920 (NICHICON UHE1C222MHD1TO CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 2200UF, 16V, 20%, RADIAL).
32R8994 is 10mm; 65R1920 is 12.5mm
mockingbird you were saying that size only matters if they are fatter. c_hegge's pick is fatter I beleive, don't I want the skinnier one or does fatter end up being better as long as it fits???

That cap is the main reason I chose Newark. Digikey doesn't have a 16V 2200uF cap in 10mm... If the one in your PSU is 12.5mm then you can certainly use the Nichicon HE. Ripple and ESR wise, they are virtually equal. I keep the Panasonic FK on hand, as they come in handy.

Switching gears to the motherboard caps, couple of questions on the conflicting advice. I want HN or HZ? Cause from what I'm seeing, badcaps.net has both in stock (HN / HZ). mockingbird your recommending HN or better HZ, c_hegge your recommending HN correct? They are both the same price, only difference I see is HZ is 4mm taller than HN.

That's easy! Go for HZ if the price is the same. Good luck with the re-cap and let us know the results.

**bigjess007** · 12-03-2013, 01:03 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Orders are in! Topcat said as long as he had it by 2pm CST he would ship today. So hopefully by the end of the week I have everything and then can begin the real fun.

Definitely need to get this machine up and running and move on to those gx620's, I see they have atleast 1 starting to bulge. Those skinny power supplies are going to be a pain in the *** too I'm sure

On cap "7", I went with the skinny one you originally spec'd mockingbird. I figure skinnier is better as I don't know exactly which size it is, and skinnier will most likely fit better.

And I ordered 5 HZ's (one extra if i screw up).

Will post back when I get underway. Thanks so much again!

**bigjess007** · 12-06-2013, 08:35 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Here's the diagram I made in case anyone else takes this project on. Don't laugh to hard, I'm not an artist, but it serves the purpose

Attached Files

**bigjess007** · 12-06-2013, 08:56 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Well, I'm done. That job sucks, definitely not my forte. I bow to you guys who can do this with one hand while blindfolded.

I thought for a few times my goose er boards were cooked.

mockingbird & c_hegge many many thanks again, wouldn't have happened without your guidance. A thanks to topcat too for a great forum and the knowledge it provides.

Things I've learned. Well, they definitely ain't as easy to do as the tivo power supplies I whizzed through.

Here's an important NOTE or safety tip (I know the experts here already know this so for us greenhorns - READ). DON'T bend the capacitors around while your trying to identify them cause your too lazy or pressed for time to desolder them off the board to get all the info off so you can post here on badcaps.net (I shamefully raise my hand

). I found I lifted off two traces from the board, damn near destroyed one when I was removing and installing the caps. Thought for sure I destroyed the PSU. The comp's on and running though, and the magical mystical blue smoke wasn't released upon power up so I guess I'm golden. But ya I know, really stupid.

The PSU even with the mess I made was a cake walk compared to the motherboard. The negative leg of those caps just wouldn't come loose. Heat heat and more heat to the point I was burning my fingers trying to pull the cap loose from the other side I had it so hot and it still wouldn't desolder. Had a big chisel tip in the Hakko too. Guess I need more practice there. Well steady hands and better eyesight probably wouldn't hurt either.

On to the GX620 SFF's now.

**ben7** · 12-07-2013, 06:12 AM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Originally posted by bigjess007 View Post

Well, I'm done. That job sucks, definitely not my forte. I bow to you guys who can do this with one hand while blindfolded.

I thought for a few times my goose er boards were cooked.

mockingbird & c_hegge many many thanks again, wouldn't have happened without your guidance. A thanks to topcat too for a great forum and the knowledge it provides.

Things I've learned. Well, they definitely ain't as easy to do as the tivo power supplies I whizzed through.

Here's an important NOTE or safety tip (I know the experts here already know this so for us greenhorns - READ). DON'T bend the capacitors around while your trying to identify them cause your too lazy or pressed for time to desolder them off the board to get all the info off so you can post here on badcaps.net (I shamefully raise my hand

). I found I lifted off two traces from the board, damn near destroyed one when I was removing and installing the caps. Thought for sure I destroyed the PSU. The comp's on and running though, and the magical mystical blue smoke wasn't released upon power up so I guess I'm golden. But ya I know, really stupid.

The PSU even with the mess I made was a cake walk compared to the motherboard. The negative leg of those caps just wouldn't come loose. Heat heat and more heat to the point I was burning my fingers trying to pull the cap loose from the other side I had it so hot and it still wouldn't desolder. Had a big chisel tip in the Hakko too. Guess I need more practice there. Well steady hands and better eyesight probably wouldn't hurt either.

On to the GX620 SFF's now.

P.S., Add some flux and a little extra fresh solder to the capacitor pins on the motherboard, it will help so much with getting the heat to transfer better to the pins! (Sometimes they won't melt because of a layer of oxide, the flux helps remove that)

**LDSisHere** · 12-07-2013, 03:49 PM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Originally posted by bigjess007 View Post

The PSU even with the mess I made was a cake walk compared to the motherboard. The negative leg of those caps just wouldn't come loose. Heat heat and more heat to the point I was burning my fingers trying to pull the cap loose from the other side I had it so hot and it still wouldn't desolder. Had a big chisel tip in the Hakko too. Guess I need more practice there. Well steady hands and better eyesight probably wouldn't hurt either.

Motherboards can make you want to pull your hair out, especially when you are just starting out.

Some people suggest heating the board prior to trying to remove the caps. This can be done with a hair dryer or if you are careful a heat-gun. I personally have not bothered trying this but it makes sense.

You do not say which tip you have for your iron other than it is big. I use a Hakko TK tip for this job and turn the heat all the way up. The good thing about using the TK tip is that I can heat both legs of the capacitor simultaneously. I flux both leads, then contact both leads with the iron. After applying some solder to each leg, I gently pull on the capacitor if it has not already fell out on its' own. Usually it will just slide out without any problems and in a matter of a few seconds. The hard part then becomes clearing the holes.

Flux is your friend here for sure. Good quality desoldering wick is also a must. Flux the hole, lay the prefluxed braid over the hole and apply the wide part of the tip to the wick. DO NOT move the wick or iron around when you are doing this and DO lift the wick with the iron. It is possible to clear both holes at once with the TK tip. If this does not clear the hole, then the pick method can come in handy. Some people also heat the blocked hole enough that they can just push the replacement cap through the blocked via without removing the solder. Hopefully some of this information will make your job easier.

**bigjess007** · 12-09-2013, 02:38 AM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Well after reading the followup posts (thanks btw, very good info!!), I think it may be my technique. I believe the tip I was using was a T18-D16 or a T18-D24 and the temp was set at 750. I don't see a "TK" tip for my station (FX-888D). I do have good chemtronics soldier braids (several different widths) and a flux pen (both from digikey). I fluxed the legs of the cap and then started to apply heat to each leg individually. I may not have the station set high enough, or maybe need to use a bigger tip, but I was concerned with burning the board and cause irreversible damage. I didn't add solder as there were traces really close and that may have been part of where I went wrong. I kept the heat on one leg at a time trying to rock that side out. The positive leg seemed to free easier than the negative leg. The negative leg's had me getting the cap burning hot before I could get it free. Once I got it out I worked with the soldier braid (60-2 I believe) on cleaning out the hole, and after alot of messin I was able to get the holes clear.

My process worked, but it sounds like it's not the best way. What's the best heat setting? I don't want to melt the board. And I was afraid on using a bigger tip as the one I had was already wider than the pad, so I ended up pushing the braid in to the hole at an angle to help clear it when I got to that stage.

Hopefully by the time I'm done with all of this I get better

**LDSisHere** · 12-09-2013, 11:09 AM

Re: Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Originally posted by bigjess007 View Post

I believe the tip I was using was a T18-D16 or a T18-D24 and the temp was set at 750. I don't see a "TK" tip for my station (FX-888D).

The actual tip number for your model would be T18-K. The tip is huge and when I first got one I did not think I would ever use it for anything because of the size. Trying to recap motherboards is when I came to see the value of this tip. Well a lot of the caps on the motherboard are soldered directly to huge ground planes which is why you found the negative lead harder to remove. This is also why a lot of people heat the boards before hand as it reduces the amount of heat required from the iron.

It is about heat transfer and the time it takes. A big tip will hold heat better than a small one. Adding more solder when the tip is touching the cap legs and pads improves the heat transfer by adding more contact surface with the iron tip.

Power supplies are much easier as they do not have ground planes like motherboards.

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Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

Got Dell'd - Optiplex 745

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