This switch died on me last week. According to the logs on my Linux machine, I discovered the problem just 12 minutes after the Linux machine lost the link to the switch. The power light on the switch lights up but the "alive" light doesn't blink.
I took it apart and I found a Seasonic 3.3V 2A power supply inside of it with a bulging cap. This is a 120/240 input supply.
The bulging cap is a Nichicon HD(M) 6.3v 1500uF.
I thought Nichicon were good capacitors?
I tried supplying 3.3V from an ATX power supply to the power supply input on the switch's main board, the "alive" light started blinking but I still got no link.
All I can think of is that the way I supplied 3.3V to the board is a little too sketchy to make it work--I used 24 awg solid wires jammed into the ATX power supply connector connected with alligator clip leads to the banana plug ends of the test leads from my multimeter, then used the test leads to input power to the board.
Apparently this switch draws pretty high current off the 3.3V power supply since there's two ground and two 3.3V wires going to the switch's main board.
Really I want to confirm that this switch still works before I go through the trouble of replacing the capacitor in the power supply.
I just checked and I got this switch back in February of 2006 so it lasted not quite 2 years. Interestingly, the price of 5-port Gigabit switches haven't dropped any since then.
I took it apart and I found a Seasonic 3.3V 2A power supply inside of it with a bulging cap. This is a 120/240 input supply.
The bulging cap is a Nichicon HD(M) 6.3v 1500uF.
I thought Nichicon were good capacitors?
I tried supplying 3.3V from an ATX power supply to the power supply input on the switch's main board, the "alive" light started blinking but I still got no link.
All I can think of is that the way I supplied 3.3V to the board is a little too sketchy to make it work--I used 24 awg solid wires jammed into the ATX power supply connector connected with alligator clip leads to the banana plug ends of the test leads from my multimeter, then used the test leads to input power to the board.
Apparently this switch draws pretty high current off the 3.3V power supply since there's two ground and two 3.3V wires going to the switch's main board.
Really I want to confirm that this switch still works before I go through the trouble of replacing the capacitor in the power supply.
I just checked and I got this switch back in February of 2006 so it lasted not quite 2 years. Interestingly, the price of 5-port Gigabit switches haven't dropped any since then.
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