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HP M9000, cap replacement

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    HP M9000, cap replacement

    Hello, I have an HP M9000 with a bungling cap which I want to replace, but I can't find any information about it to know what to replace it with.

    1800uF 6.3V "Gold Band" 105C FL [M] 86IVEJ
    Panasonic/Matsushita? 8mm width 21mm height, located near the CPU

    I have been trying to look at caps and wonder if EEU-FR0J182B might work as a replacement.

    Thank you for your time.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by bcgrogbc; 06-10-2015, 02:06 PM.

    #2
    Re: HP M9000, cap replacement

    Ouch....a bulging Panasonic FL. It has been seen here before, though, in that exact spot no less, more than once I think prior to this (and doubly on another board as well, but on an ECS board that has a hot running VRM). That area out of the board must run very hot to kill a FL (MCZs have been reported to have been blown in the same location, except it was every single one) and those freestanding FETs don't look like the best choice of thermal "solutions". I wonder if Panasonic has started to go down in quality over the past few years, though - there are several reports of prematurely failed FJS capacitors on this forum and others (several, though - not hundreds or thousands). Of course FJs have failed before too, but not without reason, to my knowledge. I've never seen a FL, FJ, FJS, or FJZ go bad myself without being overheated, but it makes me wary for sure.

    As to the replacement, FR might work but it doesn't look like that section is silkscreened for 10mm capacitors. And electrolytic capacitors have a negative temperature coefficient (at least with respect to ESR) which means you must be careful to maintain the even distribution of current between all those capacitors in parallel. That means remaining as close to the original specs (ESR and ripple current) as possible. No datasheet is available for FL, but I'd guess the ESR (for 8x20 case size) is somewhere in the ballpark of 12 - 16 milliohms and the ripple current around 1900 milliamps - 2350. I see what appears to be an 820uF 6.3v 8x11.5 KZG (rated for 36 milliohms and a ripple rating of 1140 milliamps) in parallel with all those 8x20 FLs, however, so it might not be an issue at all on second thought.
    Last edited by Wester547; 06-10-2015, 03:09 PM.

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      #3
      Re: HP M9000, cap replacement

      Thanks for the reply. As to the failure, it was most likely due to heat, this particular computer had what appeared to be cat hair coating the heat sink fins.

      Yes it is an 820uF 6.3V at the end of that line of caps.
      Last edited by bcgrogbc; 06-10-2015, 05:11 PM.

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        #4
        Re: HP M9000, cap replacement

        Also, KZGs have a high failure rate. You would also do well to replace those if the board is full of 820uF 6.3V KZGs along with the 1000uF 16V ones already present in the VRM input.

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          #5
          Re: HP M9000, cap replacement

          Thought I would post a better picture. HP M9204f, M2N68-LA motherboard. Upper 1800uF 6.3v 8x21 Panasonic FL 86IVEJ has oozed from top.

          Caps are as follows: as best as I can see
          8 - 10uF 2.5V E85P
          1 - 330uF 6.3V KZE
          11 - 820uF 6.3V KZG
          6 - 1500uF 6.3V FJ
          6 - 1800uF 6.3V FL
          8 - 100uF 16V E87E
          3 - 100uF 16V KMG
          1 - 470uF 16V KZG
          6 - 1000uF 16V KZG

          I saw in another thread where they suggested the Nichicon UHM0J182MPD6 as a replacement for the Panasonic 1800uF 6.3V FL or is the UHZ0J182MPM6 a better match?

          Thanks again for your time.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by bcgrogbc; 06-11-2015, 09:52 PM.

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            #6
            Re: HP M9000, cap replacement

            Oops, its an M9402f computer. I ended up replacing the blown cap with a Nichicon UHZ0J182MPM6.

            The computer lives again, I went with a minimal solution since I wanted to make sure it was the problem. The computer "had been" working fine. It was running fine (left on all the time), then was shut down due to bad weather. Upon trying to start up afterwards the cpu fan would start then off and nothing. Now it starts as expected and I may dismantle and replace the rest of the known "prone to fail" caps.

            Thanks to the help and input from Wester547 and a few posts here.

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