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Old 08-24-2018, 12:57 AM   #22
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Default Re: Unknown Motherboard Recapping

Originally Posted by stevekasian View Post
Now I'm wondering if I bit off more than I can chew with this soldering job. The board has no traces on the back of it connecting to the capacitor leads. And it doesn't look like any are visible on the front. So do I just solder the things in and trust that there are somehow traces imbedded between the laminates?
You'll be alright. Just make sure you have a soldering iron that is powerful enough. If it's a regular plug-in type of iron without any temperature control, make sure it is rated for at least 60 Watts and has a big, fat, chisel tip (preferably copper and well-tinned). For some boards, even 80-100 Watts might be required. That's not to say you can't use a 40W iron (it can work on some boards), but most likely you will struggle with it. And if you have one of those cheap temperature-controlled stations with 900M-type tips, forget it - these don't work worth a squat. If it's T12 or T15 tips, you'll need at least a 50W iron.

Another important item you will need is some rosin flux (regular type or RMA) - gel/paste or liquid will do just fine. Apply generously to all joints you intend to solder/desolder for better heat transfer between your iron's tip and the board's joints. It would also be helpful if you have regular 60/40 (Leaded) solder. Avoid lead-free, as some of them have a higher melting temperature and can further make the job harder (unless you have a really powerful station with T12 tips).

Last but not least, forget about desoldering braid and vacuum pumps. Just unsolder the caps by "walking" them out, using this method:
Then use a stainless-steel needle or cork board tack/pin to clear the solder holes (heat one side of the board with your iron while pushing through each hole on the other side with the needle/tack/pin). Don't push with the needle until the solder starts to melt, though. Otherwise, you might damage the hole/via.

Last edited by momaka; 08-24-2018 at 01:11 AM..
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