View Single Post
Old 02-28-2005, 03:09 PM   #5
Super Modulator
willawake's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2003
City & State: Αθήνα
Posts: 8,006

4. Prepare your workplace and the board

4.1 Get all your tools handy

the minimum you will need is the following. Get it all ready and close to hand. It is a pain when you have to get up and search for something during the job. Get your soldering iron heating up while you are preparing the area. You want to set the iron to 450oC and have it heating up for about 10mins before you begin.

- Soldering Station or Corded Soldering Iron (must be grounded! and at least 40w (60w is a good choice)

60w ERSA soldering station. Very important to have a wet sponge to clean the iron when working, whether you get a corded iron or station.

what you thought was good was useless. 40w is the absolute minimum for recapping. short "standard" chisel tips are recommended because they hold more heat

- Solder (60/40, 0.8mm is good)

solder 60/40 0.8mm

- Stainless Steel Sewing Needle or Stainless Steel Dental Pick (see later on in the FAQ)
- Desoldering Bulb (if you like)
- Lead Clippers (Fine Wire Cutters)

pro's kit lead clippers
- Board Holder
- Flux Cleaner Spray

Cramolin Flux-Off spray
- Q-Tips/Cotton Buds (normall used for cleaning your ears)
- Alcohol (95% or best 99-100%) for cleaning electrolyte from the board
- Antistatic Wrist Strap

anti-static wrist strap
For cleaning the lead holes you can use either only the needle/pick or use a desoldering bulb/desoldering braid/desoldering iron (your preference)

4.2 Get the capacitors ready

Especially if you are working with several values of capacitors it is good to have each value in seperate compartments of one of those plastic boxes with many compartments for organising screws and stuff. This prevents picking up the wrong value and installing it on the board. You can use one of the compartments to put the removed capacitors in.

4.3. Remove all components from the board.

It is pretty obvious but it will get said anyway. You must remove the HSF (CPU Heatsink/Fan), CPU, Ram, and all cards from the board before you start. When you are removing the HSF of a socket processor (non P4 etc) you should place a business card inbetween the bottom of the clip that you will put pressure on and the board. This is because it is quite easy to press too hard and damage the traces.

4.4. Clean the board

Clean the board of dust on both sides using canned air before you start work.

4.5. Get the board holder ready

An easy to find board holder is two wood clamps, the ones which you use to secure wood to the table for safe sawing. There is probably some in your garage. You can attach them to your work desk upside down and then the board fits in between the handles and the metal guides of the clamps. It is important to have the board secure for removing the caps. If you intend to work with the board between your knees or something, it is not recommended and you will probably burn yourself.

You will want the board holder to be at one side of your workspace and then you want a clear flat area to accommodate the board lying on the table for installing the new caps. Your soldering iron must be in easy reach of both areas and comfortable to work with.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg solder.jpg (120.3 KB, 5865 views)
File Type: jpg wrist.jpg (126.4 KB, 5764 views)
File Type: jpg fluxoff.jpg (88.9 KB, 5804 views)
File Type: jpg clippers.jpg (130.5 KB, 5803 views)
File Type: jpg station.jpg (83.1 KB, 5883 views)
File Type: jpg tips.jpg (105.0 KB, 5886 views)

Last edited by willawake; 06-04-2006 at 02:28 PM..
willawake is offline   Reply With Quote