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momaka
momaka
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  • I doubt those "heat mats" used for phones and tablets can get hot enough to assist you enough with replacing the socket.... though I haven't used one (or even seen one) so I don't know how hot they get.

    In any case, you will need a lot more heat, probably.

    If you have an electric (but NOT induction type) or gas stove / cooktop / burner (almost every household does), you can use that as your bottom heater. It's not a neat solution, but it does work and I have used it many times to remove large CPU sockets even without the need for hot air, and the boards were...
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    Last edited by momaka; 07-30-2025, 01:00 PM.

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  • I 2nd what lotas mentioned in regards to the buttons - sometimes they start to partially short over time, and the symptoms could be completely intermittent too. I've had a few monitors suffer due to this and randomly pop up menus or change their brightness and etc. In some cases, it's temperature-dependent and nothing happens until the monitor heats up. Nearly pulled out all my hair with a 24" Dell some many years ago due to this. Just because the buttons appear to read OK when checked once with a multimeter does not mean they are OK. The best but probably most painful way to deal with this...
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  • Just to shed some light on the original issue of the PSU here...
    If you have a PSU that turns On and appears to output the proper voltages on *all* of the output rails, but the connected motherboard does NOT turn On, then the issue is likely with the PG signal - either it's not there or not coming on at the correct time.

    But now with the shorted MOSFET(s), that's a completely different issue and probably unrelated to what was going on originally. Just putting this here for anyone else who reads this thread so they can keep track of what's going on.
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  • I have not tried it before and only read a little bit on the matter... but I think the resolution capability is just programmed in the firmware. Now, as for weather the specific Genesis chip in the other, lower-end 17" or 19" monitors has the bandwidth capability to be pushed at higher resolutions, that I do not know. In any case, if you do take the logic board from one of the lower-sized monitors, you would need to make sure the LVDS signals going to the t-con board match the layout to that of your 2007FPb first... and then, perhaps by using a firmware dump from the 2007FPb or just...
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  • Interesting fix.
    Just a curious question about that capacitor circled in red above - is that the original or is that the replacement?
    From your post, I'm understanding it's the former. If so, that looks like a polymer capacitor and I'm curious if you actually checked it to see if/how it failed. Would be good to know if that really was the issue or if the heat in the area caused something else to temporarily get "fixed".
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