For me to it too much work to go through a million transformers to find the right part but I'll help you on your way:
Wurth has a pretty nice selection of high frequency transformers.
But you will have to do the homework to find out what fits.
You can start with this on Mouser and then follow the links to Wurth's homepage: 750312279
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https://[url]https://hwbusters.com/p... good start :)[url]https://hwbusters.com/psus/corsair-rm1000e-atx-v3-1-psu-review/3/[/url]
^^That would be a good start...
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I could be wrong of course, these "special" resistor bands take a bit of guessing: the best way is to have more of the schematic available.
Right now I can't see where it connects to so I have no way to make a better educated guess.
But if it is before or after the source or drain for example then it is acting as a protection if the MOSFET in the TNY284 gets stuck on...
(And if you look at the top-side photo above it seems the PCB around the drain leg is discolored so I'd say this is what has happened).
And welcome to Badcaps btw and good job so far with the circuit...
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I think the resistor is a 2.2Ω fusible resistor, it looks like it did it's job and is no longer a resistor
[url]https://www.engr.siu.edu/staff/spezia/Web150/website/references/Widerstandscode.pdf[/url]https://I think the resistor is a 2....code.pdf[/url]
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Nice post Momaka, I enjoyed reading it! You should send Seasonic an e-mail about it so they can enjoy it too!
P.S: I was surprised about the -12v rail caps too: is there a back-feeding / protection diode installed between the input and output pins of the regulator to protect it or not?
If not maybe you will find more of these with a shorted -12v rail in the future
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That's for the AC side.
The label claims:
12v x 17A = 204W
5v x 28A = 140W
3.3v x 16A = 53W
-12v x 0.5A = 6W
That totals 403W and the model number tries to make it sound like 480W, so it's a over unity free energy device!
This power supply is extremely unlikely to produce half of what the label claims within ATX spec.
It belongs in a scrap pile, not a computer.
Anyway, for test you usually need a load, so attach an couple old hard drives you don't care about and try again......
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Hi Momaka, long time no see
I changed the title of the thread but now I changed it back because apparently the spelling is with the letter O and not number 0 as can be seen on Gigabytes website / the boards user manual:
[url]https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-6OXT-rev-1x#ov[/url]https://Hi Momaka, long time no see ...rev-1x#ov[/url...
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If you're anyway ordering caps you can go slightly better with Rubycon ZLQ 10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25
As for the voltage rating yea anything over 16v is probably for cost or inventory reasons, but you can easily verify that with a multimeter
Oh, and be sure to check that the KZG near the ATX connector isn't actually connected to +12v and so requires to be 16v rated...
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There is a project on MDL called: "Bypass Windows 7 Extended Security Updates Eligibility" it still works to this day...
...
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Windows 7 on my main system and work laptop.
It is still possible to install security updates intended for Server 2008 R2 x64 on Win7 x64: it has extended support contract via premium assurance till January 2026
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You could reform them with a high value resistor and diode directly from mains if you don't have a high voltage power supply.
If they take a charge of 325VDC though say a couple 100k resistors I would say they are fine: important thing is that current drops to zero and that they then retain that charge.
Usual caveats apply: mains is quite deadly and unforgiving about making mistakes
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They look fine but there is probably no point in replacing those Fujitsu caps: they are good quality...
And when replacing the UCC KZG caps I would go for a same-same replacement (same capacitance).
Something like this: [url]https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A750KK827M0JAAE016?qs=M6jHmRuQorWZByPWDmuM8Q%3D%3D[/url]https://They look fine but there is ...user.com/Produ
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