Post your system.......

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: Post your system.......

The regular OCCT test, (not using Linpack) is a joke in my experience, IIRC, it would run for an hour and pass, but the Linpack test still failed.

And my Q6600 was one of the worst ones, (a 2008 production run) the VID was 1.3250V and was finicky at only 367 Mhz FSB!

[TechGeek]

Re: Post your system.......

momaka: could you post a photo of the BSOD?

(sheer curiosity)

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: Post your system.......

I have a hunch that the CPU watts during max. CPU load jumps extremely sharply at 3.3 with at least 1.39 V of Vcore in CPU-Z, IIRC.

(At least the batch I tested! It definitely didn't look like I won the silicon lottery!) (Otherwise, I wouldn't expect 3.3 Ghz to be so hard to keep stable!)

And as a result, my FX8350 probably used less watts than my Core 2 Quad Q6600, while decimating my Core 2 Quad Q6600 at 3.3 with the x.264 benchmark! (And the FX decimated it at stock frequency, even though a higher frequency.)

[Sacon_FZ]

Re: Post your system.......

System Specs:


AMD Phenom II X4 955@3.4 GHz

AsRock 870Extreme3 AM3 motherboard

Galaxy GTX 560 mini

6GB DDR3-1333

FSP Aurum CM 550w (all jap caps)


1x Toshiba 1TB HDD
1x Seagate 500GB HDD
1x Western Digital 250GB HDD


6x Rifle bearing case fans with white LEDs

[momaka]

my E-VGA 780i-SLI PC "build" v2

Update on the E-VGA 780i-SLI PC…

A few years ago, I found an E-VGA GeForce GTX560 Ti 2 GB video card at a yard sale for $10 and immediately snatched it. Since then, it's been in my head that this is the video card I'd like to eventually have in the 780i-SLI PC. The GT430 was really just more of a system “test card”… and having the problems it had with crashing @ stock clocks, I knew I'd be replacing it for something better. But what I didn't like about the E-VGA GeForce GTX560 Ti is that it's a fairly hot-running card (160W TDP) with a not-so-great single overhead fan on dual-slot HS. Thus, I was a bit reluctant to use it, until I could find a cheap after-market cooler that is better. Well, instead I found another E-VGA GeForce GTX560 video card recently for $10 on my local CL – and this one was a regular non-Ti version with only 1 GB of VRAM (i.e. a very common card). So I decided to use that one as the “sacrificial lamb” (after all, TDP difference between the Ti and non-TI version is only 10W – that is, the GTX560 non-TI is rated for 150W TDP with the same cooler as the Ti.)

To use this “new” video card in the 780i-SLI build, however, I knew I would need a bigger PSU as that FSP 400W probably wasn't going to cut it with its combined 12V rails power being only 300W (it would have been right on the edge with the Q6600's 150W max. rated dissipation and the GTX560's TDP of 150W.) Thus, I figured now would also be a good time to test one of my “higher-end” repaired PSUs: the Enermax Pro 82+ EPR525AWT.
(Link to the repair thread can be found here.)

While installing the GTX560 and the Enermax PSU, I gave the PC a bit of “cable management” this time.

It's still far from looking clean, but definitely not as bad as before.

Now for the fun part – testing!
Having removed the APFC circuit in the Enermax PSU for my experimental repair, I was honestly a bit nervous to press the power button at first. But then… YOLO!
To my surprise, the system POSTed, the PSU voltages were stable, and 12V rail looked healthy @ 12.2V. I proceeded to installing the GPU drivers and rebooted. PSU felt only a bit warm and system was drawing about 125 Watts from the wall while idling after the drivers installed (according to my P3 Kill-A-Watt meter), which is only about 15-20W higher than with the GT430, IIRC. Not bad!

This got me curious to do a power draw comparison of the two PSUs and video cards (and also slowly bump up the load on the repaired Enermax to see if it would run too hot or anything like that.) So I fired up OCCT and started some tests. First, I did a CPU Linpack test. With that, the max system consumption was about 180W – again, about 15-20W higher than with the FSP PSU, probably due to having the GTX560. So the next logical test was: how much would the GTX560 consume alone. For that, I fired my trusty old ATI Tool and put the 3D window on. GPU usage immediately jumped to 99-100% (while CPU usage remained at nearly zero) and system power draw shot up to 250-270W or so. Oi! That's quite a jump! It means the GTX560 really was using close to 150W of power (on the wall side-of-things, at least.) The temperature of the GPU also shot up pretty quickly from 30-31°C right into the low-50's Celsius and continued climbing – all this in a pretty cool room temperature of 19°C. I then stopped the ATI Tool 3D test to see how quickly the GPU temperature would fall (as part of helping me evaluate cooler performance.) After this, I decided to try the OCCT GPU test. I hit the “On” button to start the test and, got the fuzzy-looking 3D windows. After a few moments… *pft*… PC screen went blank and all fans shut off – the entire PC shut down.

Did I kill it already? And what exactly? – The PSU or the GPU.
Nervously, I cycled power on the back of the PSU and then hit the PC power button again. But she wasn't dead at all, Jim! Got normal picture on the screen and PC proceeded to boot to Windows just fine. PSU voltages were same as before too.
What?! So I didn't kill anything? Time for another round then.
This time, I fired up OCCT and decided to try the “PSU test”, which I figured would be a CPU + GPU test. As soon as I tried to start the test - *pft*… same thing: the PSU (gracefully) shut down again. I think my repaired PSU's a wimp!

That said, I was curious to see if the same would happen if I fired up some games (GTA V, Mirror's Edge, and etc.). Moreover, I wanted to see if the GPU was OK. I figured any issues with the GPU will typically show artifacts. However, there were no artifacts at all on any of the games. Since I was only running on a regular 5:4 19” LCD monitor and limited to 1280x1024 resolution, I noticed in MSI Afterburner that my GPU wasn't getting stressed a whole lot on these games. My Kill-A-Watt seemed to agree as well, as I was hardly hitting over 200W of power draw from the wall. So I started increasing the graphics settings in the games. This made the power consumption go up, first to 220W, as I increased graphics details… then 230W … then 250W… until I couldn't increase anything further (particularly in GTA V due to the 1 GB VRAM limit). Meanwhile, the CPU was nearly maxed out in most games I tried. This unraveled something I was really hoping wouldn't happen: my CPU appeared to be a bottleneck in the system.

Either way, I couldn't really make the Enermax PSU shut down in any of the games I tried. I noticed that it did run somewhat warmer than before, but still nowhere near hot or even “too warm”. Voltages on all the main rails were also rock-stable and showing good values on the higher side of things.

So I tried OCCT PSU test a few more times. Each time the PC/PSU simply shut down. No fireworks or anything dramatic like that. I suppose Enermax did a decent job with the primary-side protection (as I am guessing that's where this PSU is running into issues, probably due to the much lower input voltage without APFC.)

Well, I couldn't have the PC running this way. So I decided to do another PSU swap: this time, I used my recapped Antec EarthWatts EA-500. In fact, when I bought the Antec PSU a few years ago as well, I specifically bought it for the GTX560 Ti, as I didn't have any other PSUs at the time with two 6-pin PCI-E power plugs. So perhaps this PSU really was just “meant to be” paired with this PC?

As I was a lot more confident in the Antec PSU, I put a tiny bit more work into the system cable management again, which resulted in this:

Yes, that 7V-mod kludge for the rear fan is still there with the Ethernet wires plugged into a floppy connector. But apart from that, everything else is plugged in properly. I even re-rerouted and tidied-up the front panel cables a bit. Of course, this being a non-modular PSU, there's always going to be that mess of cables in the HDD cage area. But again, I'm not after building a great-looking system. So all of the cable organization I did was purely for fun.

That aside, how did the Antec PSU do with the same set of tests as the Enermax PSU?
Well, for starters, it did NOT shut down when I tried to do the OCCT PSU test. And in terms of power draw, the Antec drew only about 5-10 Watts higher from the wall than the Enermax – at least at the same tests that I could run with the Enermax where it didn't shut down. This seems to make sense, as the APFC circuit in the Antec should actually make the PSU slightly more inefficient. But where I lost a little bit of power, I gained in near unity PFC (which I'm sure the power company will appreciate). And on the OCCT PSU test, the power draw was somewhere around 340-350 Watts, IIRC – right what I expected it to be with that CPU and GPU (and the silly hot-running 780i-SLI chipset.)

[momaka]

my E-VGA 780i-SLI PC "build" v3

This left one last thing that I’ve wanted to do: upgrade the RAM to 8 GB as planned originally. As the 4th matched RAM stick seemed to have issues, I tried another 2GB Corsair XMS stick – same timings and voltage, but this one was a version 4.7 vs. 4.3 for the other three sticks (or the other way around? I can’t remember. )

I inserted that into the 4th slot, hit the power button and… BEEP BEEP BEEP… – the motherboard wasn’t happy again. (And neither was I! ) I removed that “new” 4th RAM stick, pressed power button again, and PC POSTed fine.
- Was the 4th slot dead? Or perhaps I have to raise the RAM voltage?
To test my RAM voltage theory, I upped the RAM voltage to 1.85V (it was previously at 1.825V). I tried both v4.3 and 4.7 sticks one more time, but PC refused to boot with them again.

Continuing to mess around, I decided to run the FSB:RAM ratio 1:1. To do that, all I had to do was set the RAM frequency to 667 MHz. But I never do things the “proper” way, do I? Instead, I set the FSB to 1300 MHz (from 1333 previously, since the board let’s me choose any value I want – at least between 400 and 1600 MHz, that is.) This lowered my CPU over-clock only slightly to 2.925 GHz instead of 3 GHz. I figured it shouldn’t make much of a difference in performance but might make a slight difference for stability purposes. (?)

Thus, in order to run 1:1 FSB:RAM with this “weird” FSB clock above, I had to set the RAM at 650 MHz. Figured a slight under-clock on the RAM with whatever timings it used for 667 MHz might help with stability. As the evening was nearing and I got tired of messing with this PC, I connected it back for use – this also gave me good opportunity to test the PC with the “weird” FSB and RAM clocks more thoroughly. Overall, I didn’t encounter any issues, save for the YouTube BSOD issue, which seemed to be there even before I played with the RAM.

After nearly a week of testing and playing, it was time for another attempt at installing 8 GB. So I tried the 4th module again, same as last time. And unsurprisingly, the board beeped and didn’t POST once again. I removed the 4th module and tried to power the PC, as usual. But this time, she kept on beeping.
- What the fffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff!!!
I removed all the RAM sticks, except the one in the first slot. Can it POST? –Nope!
- Seriously now!!! Made me wish the system would just explode into a fireball so at least I would know it’s dead.
But it didn’t. And I am a stubborn one too.
So I tried a single but different module in slot one – this time a 1 GB stick with same timings. PC didn’t POST but didn’t beep either. Instead, it just cycled through some BIOS POST codes. I re-inserted the module again. Now the PC POSTed “fine” again… albeit with CMOS settings all lost for whatever reason.
*Sigh* I think we may have other issues here.

At this point, I just didn’t trust any of the RAM tests I had done with the 780i-SLI motherboard. So I opened my closet, grabbed the first DDR2 PC I saw, and started testing all these pesky 2GB Corsair XMS sticks. But surprisingly, they all worked/passed fine – including the v4.7 module and the original 4th matched (v4.3) module that I thought was faulty. So it looked more and more like the issue was with the 780i-SLI motherboard.

Thus, I went back to it and started again with just a single 2 GB Corsair module – PC POSTed and ran OK.
I then added a second 2 GB stick and attempted POST – system OK again.
Next, added 3rd and 4th stick, but this time 1 GB modules with same timing – system OK again. What?! So the 4th slot does appear to work! FFFFUUUUU E-VGA gremlins!

This tripped an idea in my head: perhaps there’s an issue with the timings when I do the 4 matched RAM sticks? So I went in BIOS and set all RAM timing manually to 5-5-5-18, then changed the RAM frequency to 650 MHz (and FSB to 1300 MHz.) PC POSTed fine, as I expected. Main difference was that I was now running 6 GB in dual-channel (2x 2GB + 2x 1GB) instead of 6 GB in single channel (3x 2 GB).

So what’s next? – I removed the two 1 GB modules and inserted the remaining two 2 GB Corsair XMS modules (that is, with the 4th module that I initially thought was faulty in slot 2a.) I then pressed the power button and… BINGO! – System finally POSTed with 8 GB of RAM in dual-channel mode.
- About F*ing time!!! Seriously!

… And that brings us to the above picture I posted, which is why it shows the finished PC with 4x 2GB matched RAM sticks.
Whew! What a hassle to get that memory to 8 GB! I’m not touching those RAM modules ever again! (Except only if I run into issues again.) As it currently stands, the PC has been running for over a week now with the 8 GB memory config and no problems. Again, aside from YouTube giving me BSODs, the system has been pretty stable otherwise. Or is it? Time will tell with more testing. As I said, I’ve been using it mostly just to play games on every other evening or so. Haven’t tried it much with any other “daily” tasks, so we will see how it goes.

Speaking of the random BSODs I get when watching YouTube:

momaka: could you post a photo of the BSOD?

Yes, sorry for the delay. Here you go:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1554002748

As mentioned, it doesn't really give any info about what's failing. In fact, I wonder if that BSOD could be more bland.

[momaka]

E-VGA 780i-SLI PC v3 final specs

E-VGA 780i-SLI PC v3 final specs

Just in case anyone is confused with the above “great wall of text” … here are the final specs of this PC that I think will stay like this for a while:

CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 2.925 MHz (1300 MHz FSB) and 1.23125V V_core
Motherboard: E-VGA 780i-SLI (model 132-CK-NF78-A1) with modded 70 mm chipset fan
RAM: 8 GB (4x2GB) Corsair XMS PC-6400 DDR2, 5-5-5-18, 1.80V, ver:4.3 <- running at 650 MHz and 5-5-5-18 manual timings with 1T CR
Video Card: E-VGA GeForce GTX 560 SC 1GB DDR5
CPU cooler: Dell XPS 630 (0N764D) 4-copper heatpipe cooler
HDD: 500 GB Samsung (Seagate?) HDD
Optical: DH-16ABSH11B Philips Lite On DVD-R/RW
PSU: 500W Antec EarthWatts EA-500 (recapped)
Case: Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition

And CPU-Z screenshots:





And for peripherals, I have the following connected to the above PC:
Monitor: 21” Hitachi SuperScan 814 (CRT) <- truly still a beauty!
Mouse: Wise-branded Logitech M-S69 ball mouse (PS/2) <- it's indestructible!
Keyboard: Gateway G9900H (PS/2) <- beige, rubber key dome, but excellent feel
Speakers/Headphones: RCA WHP141 semi-open stereo wireless headphones <-but I converted them to wired only, because they sound A LOT better that way

Yes, I know all of the above peripherals are extremely outdated (with the exception of the headphones, perhaps.) Nonetheless, they serve their purpose quite well – especially that 21” Hitachi CRT. When I picked it up back in 2012, I wasn't sure I even wanted it (as I had already collected so many CRTs). However, it took me only 2-3 hours of using it to quickly realize this is probably the best CRT monitor in my house - even better than the Sony GDM-FW900, easily! It beats it both in terms of colors and sharpness.

As for the rest of the stuff… the mouse is nothing to write home about, but built very solidly with reliable, tough buttons. I hate mice that mis-click (or click multiple times when you only click once.) The keyboard is a recent trash find that I got along with an old PC (post pending in the best cheap scores thread one of these days.) Despite being a rubber key dome keyboard, if feels very much like my beige Dell “QuietKey” rt7d5jtw (nothing about that one is quiet! ) – clack-y and tight, with deep keystrokes. Decently heavy too.

Anyways, that is all I have for this PC.

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: my E-VGA 780i-SLI PC "build" v3

This left one last thing that I’ve wanted to do: upgrade the RAM to 8 GB as planned originally. As the 4th matched RAM stick seemed to have issues, I tried another 2GB Corsair XMS stick – same timings and voltage, but this one was a version 4.7 vs. 4.3 for the other three sticks (or the other way around? I can’t remember. )

I inserted that into the 4th slot, hit the power button and… BEEP BEEP BEEP… – the motherboard wasn’t happy again. (And neither was I! ) I removed that “new” 4th RAM stick, pressed power button again, and PC POSTed fine.

A-ha! It does one long-two short for the RAM on yours as well, like mine, by my educated guess. And for mixed sticks, I simply cranked the DRAM voltage to 1.90V, after I saw one of my Asus socket 775 motherboards crash on the motherboard logo. (freeze at motherboard logo) (When I had DDR2)

IIRC, I only saw that BSOD error when I had what I think was a wrong jumper combination, for the onboard audio jumpers on my Chaintech CT-7AJA2E (socket 462) motherboard, when I had a T-bird, LOL.

[ChaosLegionnaire]

Re: E-VGA 780i-SLI PC v3 final specs

RAM: 8 GB (4x2GB) running at 650 MHz and 5-5-5-18 manual timings with 1T CR.

errr... u're running four sticks with 1t command rate?! i think thats your problem! when running four sticks, the command rate must always be 2t or else the mch cant handle the addressing required for four sticks and will crap out. addressing lots of memory modules coupled with the high density of 2 gb sticks will overload the mch and it wont be stable coping with the demands.

iirc, the benchmarking some people have done back in the day comparing 1t vs 2t is about 30-50 mhz of speed. since the ram takes a 150 mhz hit from running it at 1t, i suggest setting the command rate back to 2t. the increase in speed will more than make up for the difference. another thing to note is that since ddr2, ram speed has been rated for 2t command rates so if u run it at 1t command rate, u are in uncharted territory and assume all responsibility...

[BigTroll]

Re: Post your system.......

I paid off my newegg card today, my ryzen rig is finally all paid for!!

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

Updated my rig so far:

PSU: Raidmax RX-500XT (recapped with Chemicon caps, it's based on a pretty decent 400W Pangu Power unit - it's the same as the Tacens Radix Eco II 600W internally)
MB: ASUS H61M-A
CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 3.30GHz LGA1155
HDD: Seagate ST31000340NS Barracuda ES.2 1TB & Hitachi HDS721050CLA360 500GB
RAM: 1x4GB + 1x2GB - 6GB Crucial DDR3-1066 (supposed to be 8GB but one stick was faulty and the 8GB kit was bought second hand)
GPU: Sapphire Radeon R7 240 2GB DDR3 - should be replacing this with either a HD6950 or a R7 260x as soon as possible
ODD: TSSTCorp SH-224DB SATA DVD-RW
HSF: Deepcool Alta 9 Blue
Case: JNC/Deer RJA-52 (White)
OS: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC

So far it works fine. I replaced the Start Menu with Classic Shell and life is sweet so far. Works even better than my ol' Xeon X5450.

[momaka]

Re: Post your system.......

Updated my rig so far:...

I like it, especially the case. I suppose this is it, isn't it?
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrac..._its_going_to/
Also glad to see you didn't go "neat freak" with the cable management. It's neat, but not too sterile (which I like, as I find rigs that are too "clean" rather boring ). The only funny thing I find is how small the motherboard looks in that case. Here, I am always short on full ATX cases (and all cases, in general), so any full ATX case I get always receives a full ATX mobo.

errr... u're running four sticks with 1t command rate?! i think thats your problem! when running four sticks, the command rate must always be 2t or else the mch cant handle the addressing required for four sticks and will crap out.

Interesting. I'll see if I can find some info/readings on that. I used 1T, because that's what the motherboard picked by default the first time I had the motherboard work with all 4 RAM slots filled with RAM (that is, when I had the 2x2 + 2x1 GB arrangement). So that's why I thought I'd leave it at that.

iirc, the benchmarking some people have done back in the day comparing 1t vs 2t is about 30-50 mhz of speed. since the ram takes a 150 mhz hit from running it at 1t, i suggest setting the command rate back to 2t. the increase in speed will more than make up for the difference.

I figured that might be the case too. But I am still somewhat concerned that the last stick that I thought was faulty may not like being ran at 800 MHz (or perhaps it's the mobo??). So, if anything, I probably won't try to make the RAM go faster than 667 MHz. But perhaps I might drop the timings a bit further?... we will see.

Rig is still running fine so far. I also narrowed down the YT video issue a bit more - it also happens when playing MP4 videos with VLC. But if I use Windows Media Player, I get no problems whatsoever.Going to play more with those eventually to see why that is.

another thing to note is that since ddr2, ram speed has been rated for 2t command rates so if u run it at 1t command rate, u are in uncharted territory and assume all responsibility...

Well, my trash-picked Presario V6000 laptop chose 1T command rate for its two sticks of RAM (1x PC6400 1GB and 1x PC5300 1 GB) by default. And, in fact, its BIOS doesn't even have an option to change that. So maybe 1T isn't that uncommon.

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

I like it, especially the case. I suppose this is it, isn't it?
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrac..._its_going_to/
Also glad to see you didn't go "neat freak" with the cable management. It's neat, but not too sterile (which I like, as I find rigs that are too "clean" rather boring ). The only funny thing I find is how small the motherboard looks in that case. Here, I am always short on full ATX cases (and all cases, in general), so any full ATX case I get always receives a full ATX mobo.

Yeah, that's me

I wasn't really neat freak with cable management (come on, it's a medium-sized Deer case, I'm not expecting A++++ grade wire management to be possible in it) but at least have some decent WM in it.

[Digi]

Re: Post your system.......

Current system as my main, not really a box but a laptop:

Asus G752VT
Core i7 6700HQ
GTX 970M
16GB RAM
256GB SSD + 1TB 7200RPM HDD
17.3in 1920x1080 IPS G-Sync 75Hz

Other laptop (Elitebook 8470p):

Intel Core i5 3320M
AMD Radeon 7570M
16GB RAM
500GB SSD
1600x900 14.1in panel @ 60Hz


I'll get images of them once my desk is re-done and tidied, it's a complete mess and makes a bad impression if I do some now.

[coreAngel]

Re: Post your system.......

Wow i've never posted my system here, but this my upgrade

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055T 2.8 GHz/3.3 Ghz Turbo AM3
MB: Gigabyte 970A
PSU: Antec HCG (High Current Gamer) 750M- 750 Watt Semi Modular (its based off a custom Seasonic AM Platform, Uses United/Nippon Chemicon Caps, and two teapo Polymers)
HDD: Samsung 250Gb SSD, Velociraptor (10K RPM) 500Gb, WD Red 2 TB, WD Blue 2TB
RAM: 24 GB of 2x 4GB Kingston/2x 8Gb G.SKill DDR3-1600
GPU: MSI Radeon R7 250 2GB (i used to have two XFX Radeon 7770 in Crossfire, but wasn't able to play Fallout 4)
Optical Drive: Bluray Disc Writer
CPU-Cooler: Corsair H100
Case: Cooler Master HAF XB II
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit (love Win7)

Laptop

Dell Latitude D630
CPU (Upgaded) from Intel Core 2 Duo 2.0Ghz / Intel Core 2 Duo T9300 2.50GHz
Ram Elpida (made in Japan) 2x 4 GB DDR2-800
HDD SanDisk 120Gb SSD (using MLC tech)
GPU- Integrated Graphics
Optical-DVD Player /CD burner
OS- Lubuntu

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

Since I have another i3 in my hands, I figured I could make a build:

CPU: Intel Core i3 540 3.07GHz
MB: Gigabye GA-H55M-S2V
PSU: Frontier DR-8460BTX 450W
HDD: Samsung HD322HJ 320GB + Samsung HD502IJ 500GB
RAM: 2x2GB DDR3-1333
GPU: Gainward Geforce GT630 1GB GDDR5
ODD: Lite-On iHAS-222 DVD-RW
Cooler: stock LGA775 cooler from a Celeron E3400
Case: JNC RJA-52
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro x64

NOTES:

1 - motherboard has a RESET problem - will not reset, instead it hangs on the screen I press reset on. Powering off using the 4 second hold method does work however. I'm suspecting a problem on the RESET signal (maybe even missing). Otherwise, the motherboard works fine apart from this problem.

2 - PSU's original internals (Deer) were replaced with internals from a CWT ISO unit that had a rusty case. Also replaced the fan with a Yate Loon that came with the CWT, with the addition of a fan controller out of an defunct FSP unit. Let me know if you want some pictures of it!

3 - The JNC case was reused from my main i3-3220 machine - I moved all of it into a Delux MG-760, "BMW style" casing, as I'm going to replace the mobo in it soon with a Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3.

4 - The LGA775 cooler I used is one of those small ones which are probably bundled with 45nm CPUs, and I managed to fit it on LGA1156 by first pushing 2 of the pins in vertical order, then pulling the other two far enough to reach the other two holes. I did try to do the bolt mod with the original 90nm/65nm cooler that comes with Prescott/Conroe/Kentsfield CPUs, but the board was bending so horrible that I scrapped the idea of installing it altogether and went for the smaller cooler as I could easily work with plastic.

[LuigiV_IT]

Re: Post your system.......

my two jewels:


Alienware 17R3 Win10 - i7-6820HK-32GB DDR4 2133MHz-17.3 FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS-Anti-Glare 300-nits - GTX 980M 4GB GDDR5 - 970 Evo 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD + 950Pro 512GB M.2 NVMe SSD + SSD 860 EVO 1TB

Inspiron 15 7000 Gaming - i7-7700HQ - Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB - 16GB Ram 2.400 MHz - 970 EvoPlus 512MB M.2 NVMe SSD + 1TB 5400 rpm

[dmill89]

Re: Post your system.......

I recently upgraded my main laptop to a Dell Precision M4800 after my M4600 unfortunately suffered a broken hinge (my fault a ~4ft. drop on a concrete floor and landed right on the corner ), the hinges can be replaced and I ordered a set so I'll probably fix it at some point (it is a real pain and basically requires complete disassembly) but was already considering an upgrade and this gave me an excuse.

So for a little over $350 I got this:

Specs:
CPU: Intel Core-I7 4910MQ
GPU: Nvidia Quadro K2100M
RAM: 16GB DDR3
SSD: 256GB Samsung 840 Pro
ODD: Matsushita UJ272 Blu-Ray burner
Screen: 15.6" LED backlit IPS 1920X1080
OS: Windows 10 Pro (unfortunately, but with 7 coming to EOL there aren't many options, Dell originally sold these with Win 7 as an option so I could down-grade and not have any trouble getting drivers, but since I use this machine on the internet a lot it probably makes sense to have a supported OS, and I've got plenty of other PCs with 7 on them)

[Dan81]

Re: Post your system.......

Just built a nice 775 machine:

COLORSit G8015C-E72 case
Thermaltake TR2-420NP 420W PSU (recapped)
ASUS P5QD Turbo mobo
Leadtek Geforce 8400GS 1GB
5x HDDs (320GB main drive, 2x160GB RAID1, 500GB data and 300GB IDE data as well)
4GB DDR2-800 RAM
HL-DT-ST GSA-4167B DVDRW
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 2.66GHz LGA775
Windows 8.1 Pro x64
SoundBlaster Audigy 2 SE SB0570
ASUS 802.11bgn WLAN PCI card

[momaka]

Re: Post your system.......

Just built a nice 775 machine:

COLORSit G8015C-E72 case

... Oh yeah, I remember that box. It was quite popular in gaming PC mags back in the mid-2000's. How is the quality of that case? Good? Bad? Somewhere in between? The front cover on the bottom looks like / imitates some of the older Antec and HP NetServer cases. Which color version of that case did you get. The yellow one is certainly tacky, IMO. I'd still take it over any boring black box these days.

ASUS P5QD Turbo mobo

Nice motherboard!
If only you had a C2Q CPU in that - I bet you could OC it quite a bit. (Not that you can't do that with the current E6750 )

With a better GPU, you could even play some of the AAA titles from 2015-2016 at medium to high settings. I just tried Dirt Rally on my C2Q rig above, and I was getting 40-60 FPS stable @ 1280x960 and high settings. Even GTA V ran decently well on standard settings.

I recently upgraded my main laptop to a Dell Precision M4800...

Now that is a very solid laptop. The Dell Precision and Latitude line of laptops are still my favorite... and probably the only laptops I'd ever care to own.

My current job gave some of us techs rugged Dell laptops of some sort (don't remember model or line.) But they ran out by the time they got to me. And they were bulky and heavy, so I couldn't care less for not getting one. This worked out well, because I saw an older used Dell Latitude E6xxx that belonged to a former tech in the company. It was pretty beat up and quite grimy. Dying HDD too (tarnished contacts on the PCB). But it looked promising, so I asked if I could use it. When I got the green light, I fixed the HDD, then cloned it to a cheap Inland 120 GB SDD, and been using it for the last 3 months without an issue. It has a i7 quad core and 8 GB of RAM. Also runs Windows 7 instead of 10, which is the main reason I picked it. With that and the SSD I put in it, it really goes fast. Symantec/Norton AV still manage do slow it down quite a bit. But overall, it boots very fast. Has nice titanium body shell too. And I found a 9-cell Li-ion battery for it from another Dell laptop as the original 6-cell in this laptop had only about 40 minutes of runtime, if even that. The 9-cell will do 2-3 hours, which is plenty for me throughout the day while on the road. They have a few more of these at work. Might ask them eventually if they'd even let me buy one off for personal use. Dell Latitude and Precision are awesome!