dell 2000 fp blank display and freeze light

[almagedom]

i have a monitor dell 2000fp and i have black screen and light are all on no image i like toknow if i can fix it or change power board if i can find it thanks

[etrahey]

Re: dell 2000 fp blank display and freeze light

This is a copy of a reply from the Dell user form on how to fix this problem.

Hi guys

I'm composing this reply on my newely repaired 2000FP! Here's what I did:

If your symptoms are as described in this thread (i.e. all the LED lights stay on and no display) then the AD board is bad. Check out Norris parts at http://www.repairmylcd.com/ You will need to order a new AD board http://www.repairmylcd.com/2000fp-logic.html from them. I looked for other places on the net, for price compare but all I came up with was Norris Parts. I was happy with the service they provided. Got the new board quickly. If you send the old board back you get a $10 credit; they provide the return UPS label.

This repair is not that difficult and I think that anyone can do it. The hardest part of the whole process is cracking open the monitor itself. Here's the process.

1) lay out a large bath towel (folded in half) on a open workspace and place the monitor face down on the towel. Remove the monitor base which is held in by 4 screwes, and also remove the 4 screws in the 4 corners of the monitor. (note that the corse thereded screws are the corner ones. Don't reassemble using these for the monitor base, or you will hose the threads!)

2) You will need a standard screwdriver (medium size) and a stiff plastic card of some sort. I used my wife's Pampered Chef scraper, but I'm thinking that an old credit card, plastic putty knife, or even a plastic spatula will work.

3) At the bottom of the monitor are 3 slots. Using the screwdriver *GENTLY* pop the tabs by inserting the tool in the slots and push the tabs down. (Just study the slot and you will see how it latches) Once these are free, you will see the gap begin to form from the 2 case halfs. Also note that the back half of the monitor case has the silver band with the Dell "D" logo attached to it. Meaning that the seperation point is the edge closest to the display.

4) Now here is the hardest part. There are (if I remember) 3 or 4 connection points on each of the remaining 3 sides of the monitor where the back half attaches to the display half of the monitor. In a seated position put the monitor on your lap edgewise and starting at one of the lower bottom corners use the plastic card, spatula, or plastic putty knife to gently pry pry the clasp free. (I used the plastic tool to prevent gouging the case with a screwdriver.) I used a compination of the screwdriver to gently widen the gap a bit and then inserted the plastic tool and slid it up the monitor side. Carefully take note as you slide the plastic tool up the monitor that the gap begins to "distort" a bit. This is where the two halfs are connected. Keeping the plastic tool in the gap, I used the blade of the screwdriver to gently press down on the inside edge of the silver plastic border directly over the clasp point to pop it. I also alternated sides so that the back half of the Monitor came off evenly to reduce the stress, and it also helps with the removal. If you get the left and right sides free, then you can sort of "clam shell" the back off and the top part will come free on its own. I know this sounds sort of complicated, but if you just begin doing it you will see what I mean. This was my approach and it resulted in very minimal "pry marks" and no broken clasps. Hopfully you can improve on my process.

5) now with the hard part over, and the monitor back on the towel face down, you will notice some sheilding covers. Looking at the monitor with the control buttons at the bottom, you have a sheilding cover to your left and the large one in the center of the monitor. You need to remove both shielding covers. The smaller one on the left is held on by 2 screws in the gap seperating the 2 covers. Remove these screws and then notice how the cover slides up about 1/8" or so and up to free it from the remining hold down slots. With the cover free you will see the Inverter board which you can also get from Norris Parts if your problem is of a different nature. (Norris parts tells you all this) You want to go after the AD board under that larger shielding cover.