Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
That's what I meant tbh
The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Illinois Capacitor 47uf 25v.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1622627220
The one above tested at 213pf, but I also pulled two more that had failed, the second one tested at 173pf, and the last one was open. These were likely made around 1983, and were likely exposed to a lot of heat during their lives.
I've seen the vent on a bunch of cheap capacitors fail, likely due to it not being stamped deep enough into the tops of the capacitors, leaving very shallow vent marking that don't break when too much pressure builds up in the capacitor.
I think I've seen the forever brand here before, and it goes to show that no matter what you name your crappy caps, they will always be crap.
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Last edited by RukyCon; 06-02-2021, 04:02 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Well, first cap for some reason didn't exploded a vent, and had rust or some electrolyte residue under the sleeve... I think vent didn't made it job well because of factory defect... Sapcon is did well in sapping life of poor Raidmax KY(S)-600(yea 600, 18 amps on 12v, 600, 100% sure)ATX... But forever is best name out of all capacitors here, it becomes even better after this capacitor didn't lasted 'forever'...Yeah, it's a pain when this happens, i think it might be a bug. Now that first cap must have shorted out and burned a hole through the can, I wonder what it looked like to see it fail, probably pretty exciting if i were to guess.
Based off the name, the sapcon capacitor must be particularly good at sapping the life out of whatever it's installed in, granted, every other capacitor you've shown would also be good at doing just that.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Yeah, it's a pain when this happens, i think it might be a bug. Now that first cap must have shorted out and burned a hole through the can, I wonder what it looked like to see it fail, probably pretty exciting if i were to guess.
Based off the name, the sapcon capacitor must be particularly good at sapping the life out of whatever it's installed in, granted, every other capacitor you've shown would also be good at doing just that.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Crap... I will try to fix itI can't see your photos, which leads me to guess they timed out while you were writing the post (since i can see they're all Badcaps URLs, so you didn't use 3rd party image hosts). I've had the exact same thing happen, and usually, you can still see the photos, but no one else can.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
I can't see your photos, which leads me to guess they timed out while you were writing the post (since i can see they're all Badcaps URLs, so you didn't use 3rd party image hosts). I've had the exact same thing happen, and usually, you can still see the photos, but no one else can.Last edited by RukyCon; 06-01-2021, 07:13 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
I hope you are accepting soldered out capacitors
Sometime ago I got some non-working ATX PSUs for free... And as I leave in not rich country, these were cheap faulty PSU with many bulged badcaps. I already resoldered most of capacitors and got little 'box of shame' with died crapacitors. Some of them are even from Motherboards, so here we go:
First comes my most favourite one - FHY MKX 470uf 200V, it's so cool, that it even made new vent for himself as main one isn't working as it should. Saw many bulged caps from this brand(not by my self, but they are badcaps 100%).Soldered this one out from Modecom FEEL 500W.
Second one is with interesting name - Forever, sadly this one didn't lasted forever. Soldered it out from some crapy old ATX PSU.
Next one is Sapcon, soldered 5 of those capacitors from a Raidmax KY-600ATX.
Another 'con' badcaps - Canicon, Soldered this one out from no-name crapy old ATX PSU.
Next is SD, I got 4 of them soldered out from some old crapy ATX PSU.
And another 'con' crapacitor - Ricon. Soldered out from some old crapy ATX PSU.
The capacitor I see on many old Microlabs is BH. I didn't saw them bulged except for this one, I didn't measured their capacitance as I don't have capacitance on ESR tester, maybe will test them if get one on my hands.
p.s on photo of capacitor you can't see leters BH as they are covered into some thing that maufacturer puts on capacitors. Here is the other BH capacitors soldered on some died microlab.
Asia X - popular one, some manufacturers put them on new PSU(Like Aerocool on their VX series), have 4 them bulged and soldered out.
CapXon - same as Asia X, but I think they became better now, have some old 2 bulged caps.
Next is 3 interesting ones
Nichicon copy - Nicon, soldered out from some old crapy ATX PSU, they put caps with those name on factory, what a shame...
Fake Rubycon MBZ ! 1000uf 6.3V didn't found any info about those in datasheets, found them soldered onto MSI P965 NEO(or NEO-F), not from factory, as old NCC KZG were bulged(yes-yes KZG caps at their best, also there will be some series of NCC in the list).
And the final one is - NCC TMV 680uf 4V, they have no vent on top, so they bulge on bottom, got 3 of them from some old ASUS motherboard.
p.s sorry if image size is too big, just wanted to show my little 'box of shame'
Also i didn't mentioned 3 other caps - OST from old Powermans or In Wins, Teapo, and of course, NCC KZG, i got many of them bulged...Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Wow, that's a really cool radio! From the time when it actually meant something to own one, I imagine.Pictured is a very nice example of a VHF Skymaster that I acquired on ebay recently. The transistors in these usually suffer from the tin-whisker problem, so probably why this one isn't working. Suitable replacements are in the post [from Ukraine!].
I've owned one of these radios for over 50 years, but it's not worked for decades. A great radio in its day, so I hope to resurrect it. It's as dead as a doornail at the moment.
https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/masteradio_d517.html
O.o I see what you did there.
... somewhere in between, I guess.Last edited by momaka; 05-29-2021, 07:40 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
The failure was unlikely to be caused by a power surge. It runs off a 9V battery [PP9].
Those old Callins weren't the most reliable, apparently. However, the radio sparked into life as soon as I replaced that cap with something I had lying around. I also removed the other 3 Callins, which seemed to be working OK, but have replaced them temporarily. I'll be replacing them all with some Panasonic FM 475uf 25v caps in due course.
That small grey cap appears to be OK. I think it's just the way the plastic coating curls around the end. I have four of these radios here at the moment [two are owned by me, and the other two belong to friends], and that cap looks the same on all four.
The resistors all appear to be hand painted.
Pictured is a very nice example of a VHF Skymaster that I acquired on ebay recently. The transistors in these usually suffer from the tin-whisker problem, so probably why this one isn't working. Suitable replacements are in the post [from Ukraine!].
I've owned one of these radios for over 50 years, but it's not worked for decades. A great radio in its day, so I hope to resurrect it. It's as dead as a doornail at the moment.
https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/masteradio_d517.htmlAttached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Wow, that's over 40 years old!
Can't say I blame that cap for dying. Looking at how it ruptured though, it seems the electrolyte must have been good (or at least not dried) right until the failure... unless this was caused by a power surge or something similar?
Also, I don't know if this is just something on the picture or not... but that small 10 uF, 12V gray cap to the left of the cap that was blown also appears like it's about to go *boom* on one side. Probably a good idea to replace all of the electrolytic caps, given their age. Also any paper wax caps too, if any - I hear those fail quite a bit too.
By the way, are the color codes on those resistor hand-marked? It certainly looks like it. Makes you appreciate how much electronics have changed since back then (well, for the better and for the worse.)
And I was... not here (on Earth).
Last edited by momaka; 05-28-2021, 12:06 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Early 1967?! I was in 7th Grade back then.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
I recently had a look inside a mates old VHF Skymaster radio, which hadn't worked for years.
Not difficult to spot a problem. This was one of the 4 Callins 400uf 10v caps, dated 6705.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage - Sanyo WF series (part 2)
And looks like I took pictures of that too, back then. Just found out I had them yesterday, lol. (My file organization has slacked a bit for the lat 3-4 years.)In addition to that, I also have an ECS motherboard that used to have a bunch of Sanyo WF 6.3V, 1800 uF caps. When a few of them bulged, I removed them all eventually. Some were still OK for a while. But when I last checked after the above incident, all were now bulged and showing high capacitance too - some well above 4000 uF!
Anyways, pictures attached below.
I find it funny that the bulging cap is showing lower capacitance than the normal-looking one. But then look at its Vloss - a whopping 27% and ESR starting to climb too. I think what happens is the electrolyte keeps "attacking" the foil layer and at the same time also forms excess Hydrogen gas (with or without the presence of an external power source.) Then, once the cap's vent operates, the electrolyte starts to dry out, making the cap loose capacitance and increase in ESR.
On that note, I've been finding lately that both Teapo SC and Ltec LZP seem to fail most often in that manner as well. In fact, it seems that most crap caps seem to fail that way - i.e. first capacitance increases, then cap vents and capacitance starts to go down while ESR goes up. At least this is the case I've been seeing when recapping a few HiPro PSUs with failed caps this week. The caps in these PSUs were all in various states between still in-spec and completely failed. And at least from what I observed, caps that weren't yet bulging but starting to show slightly higher (or much higher) capacitance were in their "early" stage of failure (though still operational.) Once these built up enough pressure to bulge, their capacitances had gone down, just like with the Sanyo WF caps above. And once they had vented and leaked for a while, their capacitance was showing low (typically a fraction of their rated capacitance) and ESR at least several Ohms.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Last edited by momaka; 11-13-2020, 06:38 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Eh, I don't know about that. I think 10 years is not that great, whichever way you look at it. After all, the equivalent Rubycon, Nichicon, and Panasonic series that came from the same Xbox 360 motherboards have already lasted 15 years. Even most of the Chemicon KZJ 16V, 1500 uF caps have been doing OK-ish.
So I think 10 years is actually not good... unless of course we are talking about a very hot-running or abusive application, which these Sanyo WF caps did not see.
In the case of the GeForce 6200 video card, the modded heatsink I put on it keeps the GPU core below 55C under load, even in the hottest days in the summer (with an 80 mm fan on top, that is.) But the PCB on that card probably doesn't run above 45C - and again, that would be in the hottest summer days. Really, that whole card feels cool to the touch. I've also used that card maybe only for 100-200 hours (if even that much) since I recapped it in 2014. It was mostly infrequent use every few months. Same goes for the Intel Maverick motherboard. So these Sanyo WF caps didn't quite just sit on the shelf and also didn't quite see a whole lot of use either... which is probably the most optimal scenario for their life.
The other interesting thing I noticed about Sanyo WF is that both 6.3V and 16V are equally prone to failure. From what I've observed, this is not so much the case with United Chemicon KZG/KZJ and Nichicon HN/HZ (with 2005 date codes.) In fact, I still have a lot of 16V, 1500 uF and 1800 uF KZG that test well in-spec for capacitance and ESR that are about equally old as these Sanyo WFs or even older. Some are still in use, too. Same with Nichicon HN caps with 2005 date codes that I've pulled from the same Xbox 360 boards - if it's rated for 16V, it hasn't given me problems. With KZG, the only exception is the small 16V, 470 uF on a few boards. But everything else rated for 16V has been mostly OK.
Yup.
Actually, a good number of people here have known that for a while, myself included. In fact, when the first batch of Sanyo WF caps started failing on my ECS MCP61PM-AM about 3-4 years ago, I looked up info here and found more examples of WF failed. But since these were mostly 6.3V caps, I figured they are probably similar to KZG, but maybe not as bad. But then as these 16V 1500 uF caps failed, it was clear at that point that WF series is just unstable. I thought of posting about this years ago, but just kept distracted with other things. Now that I finally snapped some pictures above, it seemed more appropriate that I should.
Last edited by momaka; 11-07-2020, 07:31 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Add Sanyo WF to the bad caps list?Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
The WTF series? 10 years in use would be very decent life, but 10 years mostly on the shelf or in a box?
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The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage - Sanyo WF series
Remember this video card that I recapped a while back in 2014?
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37602
Well, I've been using it on-and-off as a test card and even semi-permanently in a few PCs.
Last week I pull it out of storage again (after maybe close to a year without use) to test another build and what do we have…
… a slightly domed Sanyo WF, 16V, 1500 uF cap. That can't be good!
Let's see what my ESR meter says:
Yeah, 2400 uF?
That's failed for sure. Seems to be high internal leakage, just like United Chemicon KZG likes to go.
Now, I will be honest that these Sanyo WF caps were salvaged from dead Xbox 360 motherboards, so they may or may not have seen a few high-temperature cycles from a reflow or two. But really, that shouldn't matter, because I have Rubycon MCZ and Nichicon HN caps in the same capacity and size, salvaged from the same Xbox 360 motherboards, and none of those have gone bad on me.
Since the above EVGA GeForce 6200 card was one of my early recaps, I decided to pull another old recap of mine out of storage where I used the same Sanyo WF caps. It was on an Intel Maverick/Silverado motherboard for an HP DC7700 desktop tower. I previously used this board about 4-5 months ago to test the TDP capability of some heatsinks (by using a Pentium 4 -630 CPU on that board as the heat source "test dummy".
)
So I grab that board and inspect it. Immediately, I notice almost the same thing:
… except on this one, the bulge on the Sanyo WF cap was much smaller. Nevertheless, I desoldered it to check it and this was what the cap meter said:
-bad again!
Since I used two more of these caps on that HP DC7700 board, I pulled those out too. One measured nearly the same thing as above, but without showing any signs of bulging or being domed:
The last one, though, showed this:
… 1700 uF, which is still technically “in spec” for a 1500 uF cap. But do I trust it? –Absolutely not.
As a comparison, shown below is the reading of a Rubycon MCZ, 16V, 1800 uF cap (the one and only left) original to that board (the rest of them bulged due to excessive heat, as it seems that board was in a case with bad ventilation, as there were scorch marks all over the board in the hot areas):
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1604735471
After finding all this, I check the rest of my stock (all of 3 caps, lol) of Sanyo WF, 16V, 1500 uF caps that I had salvaged from bad Xbox 360 motherboards (I guess these were rare on Xbox 360 motherboards… and maybe for a good reason!) Surely enough, most of them tested above 2000 uF, despite me actually reforming them at least once every year.
In addition to that, I also have an ECS motherboard that used to have a bunch of Sanyo WF 6.3V, 1800 uF caps. When a few of them bulged, I removed them all eventually. Some were still OK for a while. But when I last checked after the above incident, all were now bulged and showing high capacitance too - some well above 4000 uF!
Unlike the 16V, 1500 uF units from the Xbox 360 motherboards, half of these weren't in hot spots or abused in any way. They simply failed after roughly 10 years of life total.
So there you have it… Sanyo WF series = bad news.
Of course, that's not to say that Sanyo (now Suncon) makes bad caps. Their WG and WX series are mostly OK. But if you have anything with WF series - recap it!Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Yup.
Caps with unstable electrolyte tend to do that, especially shit caps from China.
Good Japanese caps can sit for a few years on the shelf without use and have no problems afterwards. Of course, if stored for more than "a few" years, their specs will slowly start to deteriorate (generally, they may need reforming to avoid high leakage current and possibly shorting out from that.) Nonetheless, I haven't had even 10+ year old new Japanese caps go bad on me in storage - at least not series that are known to be solid with minimal or no failures. Chemicon KY, Nichicon HE, and Panasonic FM are a few examples.Leave a comment:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Cap bulged after sitting unused for a couple of months...
This is a constant-current load I got off Ali in kit form. I soldered it together myself and it works, but it just sat in a box on a shelf for a good 6 months now while I was planning to build a case for it, which I never really made much progress on
I came across it the other day while I was looking for something else in the same box and noticed this, which struck me as odd. However, I think I remember someone saying something around here not that long ago about caps going out just by idling for long periods of time, so this could be it. Not sure if the position of the can itself plays a role in this - this board sat on its side, for the record. It wasn't exactly cool where it lived for the past months, but certainly not boiling hot or in direct sunlight either.....
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by momakaI know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
by eccerr0rIntroducing... the POS-124Z which really is a POS:
Yep it's a POS allright.
I tried powering it up. It's a KILLER - not fried, but sure will fry things! I got 21V out of it unloaded according to my DMM!
I tried 21W load (car lamp) - got 16V, which is really pushing that lamp.
Then I tried a 50W load (car headlight) - got 13.2V. Not too bad but this is with the heavy load...except the circuit breaker kept tripping.
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EIEW. Looks like a Darlington emitter follower + Zener device. Heatsinking?... -
by Per HanssonWhile our PSU hall of shame thread is fun I thought It'd be fun to have a ripple hall of shame thread too

I'll go first out, it's an industrial PSU that offers +15v -15v -5v +5v rails.
However it has been mounted on a frame with DC/DC converters for producing +12v and -12v as well.
The caps for this have gone a bit high ESR
The measured ripple is around 1700mV, or 1.7v!
After recapping the ripple is gone, also note that the scale on the scope is 50mV/div instead of 500mV per div in this shot
-And that's how you know you have a qualifying... -
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