Component Combination

[DrDos]

I have a Technics SA-404 reciever. Inside right next to the rectifier it has 2 EXRFS2032ZS Ceramic component combination capacitors. I think they are there to stop the hum and other osilations, anyway nobody has them that I can find unless I just don't know how to tell digikey what I want. So, I understand they are really to capcitors sharing a ground. Can anyone tell me what 2 capcitors make up these things. The parts list only shows 0.01uF (X2). Now I'm not sure if that means there are 2 for the reciever or it consists of 2 0.01Uf caps. I am hoping somebody can help me out with this because I really need to change them out. Thank in advance. I'll upload the service manual since I may have missed something there also.

[R_J]

Why do you want to replace them? I would bet they are ok and would outlast us both. they are just .01µf 250v disc caps across the bridge rectifier diodes, if they are not shorted, they will be fine
Your picture shows a bad (C629, red) electrolytic, replace them before looking at ceramic disc's

These are the same sprague P00914

[DrDos]

I found this talking about component Combinations. I'm not sure if it apply's to my situation but I thought I would post the info anyway. BTW do we have a place to post service manuals. I have one for Pioneer SA-5500 II and this technics SA-404 I could post.

Common Configuration Strategies

• Parallel Connection: Connects multiple capacitors to increase total capacitance and reduce overall ESR/ESL. This is often done by combining different values (e.g., 0.1µF and 0.01µF) to cover a broader frequency range for decoupling.
• Series Connection: Used to increase voltage rating or achieve precise fractional values, though it reduces total capacitance.
• Decoupling Best Practice: Use a 0.1µF capacitor for mid-frequency decoupling and a 0.01µF (or smaller) capacitor for very high-frequency noise suppression on critical ICs.

[DrDos]

This is what they look like and I still can't find them anywhere.

[R_J]

Why do you want to replace them? I would bet they are ok and would outlast us both. they are just .01µf 250v disc caps across the bridge rectifier diodes, if they are not shorted, they will be fine
Your picture shows a bad (C629, red) electrolytic, replace them before looking at ceramic disc's

These are the same sprague P00914

[DrDos]

Hmmm, you may be right. It looks like the top has expanded a bit. Thank you. Anyway They are not bad but there was a puff of smoke coming from the rectifier area and I just want to change everything over there. I'm going to use
(2) 0.01uF 630V Radial Polyester Film Capacitors and piggy back the center pins. I know 630v is overkill but film caps will be a sort of upgrade. How can you tell the caps were 250v? Anyway, 2 of the primaries from the transformer
hook up to these so I thought the 630v would be better. I haven't had the unit on long enough to test rails and such yet. It was blowing the filament in my dim bulb tester. Now I put a variac on it and it's working much better. The only incandesent
I have is a 3-way 50, 100, 150 so the variac helps control the volts to the dim bulb. Thank very much for your help.

[R_J]

Anyway, 2 of the primaries from the transformer hook up to these

Are you sure about this? The primary connects to the ac line, NOT to the bridge rectifier.
other schematics show the voltage and value of these caps. they are standard values used in this position.
R627 (22Ω) is damaged and C629 is bulged, maybe that's where the smoke came from.

[DrDos]

Yes, I'm going to have to. I'm just learning about all this stuff and filling my brain rapidly. C629 has been changed and R627 was fine it just needed to be straightened out. Those Ceramic caps may be standard but I tried ordering some and digikey
had none unless I wanted some square looking things. They seem to be out of these regular standard ceramic caps. Mouser didn't have any either or at least the ones I wanted to change.560pF 500v and 100pf 500v. All they had were Mica caps and I'm not paying $7 plus shipping for 1 or 2 caps. I pretty much have to back together now. I kept the original ceramic caps that were near the STK1050's with the exception of C622 which is a 0.01Uf 50v all I had was a 0.01uF 630v so I threw that in there. I have a lot of ceramic caps but my problem is only one batch had the volts printed on them and my TC-1 tester won't tell me the voltage nor will my multimeter. Well I saw the smoke from somewhere near the rectifier and R622. I did just clean with 91% acolhol so it may have been that. I'm waiting on a transistor now once that is in I'm leaving the L602 coil out and STK1050's and do a power on. For the power on I have a variac hooked up to a dim bulb tester and then the init which is about a safe as I can think of being. I'll see what happens at that point. I did find in my tacing that R907 (470 Ohms)was bad so I'm going to replace that also before I power up. I have a full schematic and parts list. Thank you very much for your help.

[andrewsawesomr]

The "square-looking" ones are normal, the renderings just look weird on DigiKey. They have plenty 0.01uF 50V 560pF 1kv. If you look at the datasheets, you can see the real photos of the capacitors.

[DrDos]

Wow! Thanks. I'm just learning about all this stuff so I can try and fix my own gear. I have bought from them several times and I thought how can I tell if that big square will fit where I need it? Anyway it's good to know that because I was getting about the same thing from Mouser, Jameco, and Newark. I actually gave up and went to ebay. Thanks again.