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Re: This is bad caps ?
That's not one of the good brands, but they're not visibly failed. -
Re: This is bad caps ?
I wanted to replace them with better, which should I buy? a greeting friends and thank you very much
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Re: This is bad caps ?
What's the supposed power rating on that? Based on the heatsinks, I'd guess ~250w; based on the main transformer, I'd guess 200W. But I think 560uF input capacitors would suggest 300W-350W. I would recommend using whatever snap-in large can 105C series from Nichicon, Nippon (or United) Chemicon, Panasonic or Rubycon is available to you. Match the can size voltage rating and capacity (higher, e.g. 680uF, is OK).PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
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To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
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Re: This is bad caps ?
If you're running an old Pentium III then sure, why not? At least it should last longer.
But you aren't going to run the latest Core i7 or Phenom II rig on it. If that is your intention, then spend the money on a better PSU."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
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Re: This is bad caps ?
Big caps like that are expensive. Not worth changing - at least not for this power supply.
I see the ones currently in there are rated for 560 uF. Probably fake ratings and close to 330 to 470 uF. That's still plenty for this gutless PSU, which is again why it's not worth changing them.
If you really really want to improve it, change the caps on the secondary side with known good brands (Panasonic, Rubycon, Nichicon, or Chemicon) and replace the output diode rectifiers for bigger ones - this will improve the efficiency. If you do decide to change the caps, AVOID buying from eBay!!! Way too many fake caps on there.
Other than that, don't bother doing anything else to it. Waste of time and money... unless you have all of the parts already and time is not an issue.
This PSU would be okay for an old Pentium II or Pentium 3 -type of computer. But anything newer - forget it.Last edited by momaka; 10-22-2013, 12:56 PM.Comment
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Re: This is bad caps ?
I find these cheap PSUs are best suited as spare parts supply."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
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Re: This is bad caps ?
All the other caps look like ChengX. aka garbage. The thing that truly makes that thing suck is the 28 transformer. If I was you, I would scrap it. Regarding the bulk caps, HEC (Guessing HPC is the same, they look soooo similar) is pretty inconsistent. I've seen quite a few input caps by them, seen 470's that read ~330, and some that read well within 5%. I've measured some of their 680uF and 820uF input caps and they were spot on. I would keep them if you are going to scrap itLast edited by Pentium4; 10-22-2013, 10:44 PM.Comment
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Re: This is bad caps ?
speaking of power supplies, I recently built a new computer and bought this power supply because it well well rated and said "all Japanese capacitors" (yeah right!)
well I had never seen a PC power supply that truly had all Japanese capacitors, so skeptical, I looked inside when it arrived, and sure enough, every capacitor was a Chemi-con, and good series!__________________
the BIG 4
~~~ the top tier of low-ESR electrolytic capacitors ~~~
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Re: This is bad caps ?
Type "Rosewill Capstone review" in a search engine and you find that the OEM is Superflower and for that series of power supplies, Rosewill just stuck with the "standard package" instead of messing about with cheaper capacitors or components.
So yeah, that's a good to very good power supply, no problems.Comment
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Re: This is bad caps ?
Let's see... I have a Seasonic S12II Bronze 380W with all Chemi-con, Seasonic S12II Bronze 520W with one Rubycon and the rest Chemi-con, and a half-taken-apart Astec 200W with all Nichicon. Almost all mid-range Seasonics have 100% Japanese caps now (the really cheap ones have OST, and the high-end models have some Enesol (Korean?) polymers, but the mid-range models usually have all NCC).
Now... power supplies that say "Japanese Capacitor" are another story. I've seen supplies that said "Japanese Capacitor" and had exactly one, and ones that said "Japanese Capacitors" and had exactly two.Last edited by cheapie; 10-23-2013, 08:54 PM.Comment
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I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
Hello,
First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.
I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.
I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
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Hello!
I have two projects on my work bench. One is a friends dead JBL Xtreme speaker with a blown voltage regulator and corresponding bulged and shorted cap. That cap has clear markings so I know what replacement I need for it.
The other project however is a whole different deal. It's a Zoom 9000 guitar effect from the 90th that has developed a devil hound howl when there is no input from the guitar. I'm guessing caps problem. So, since I don't really use this effect anymore I thought it would be a perfect project to learn on.
I have studied the board and... -
I'm trying to repair two old VCRs, they both have bad caps. One has leaky ones, the other would barely run until I subbed in some caps from another power supply I had laying around (though they are the wrong values). This vcr works for an hour or two, but then the power supply starts whining and the picture gets lines in it. I didn't replace all the secondary caps, so another voltage might still be problematic, or the values I used are too far off.
I've been on mouser and digikey but the options are a bit overwhelming. I just need some new ones that will work. They don't need to be top quality,... -
Good evening
I recently aquired a rev 1.1 Gigabyte 60XT, and was suprised of the amount of leaking caps for a motherboard of the P3 era. Especially the way the 330µf caps seems like the housing discolored even.
Now, there are some 3300µF 6.3V KZG series around the CPU. Would it be OK to replace them with something like EEUFR1A332 ? (Panasonic FR 3300µF 10V). Or was this board designed around very low ESR caps?
But I was also suprised about the bigger boys, which are 330µF 25V.
Could it be they used 25V caps because they were cheaper / available at that time?...
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